Jeep XJ 3.5-4.0" Lift on!

KFXHELLRAISER · 06-21-2008, 01:32 AM

Well I finally put the rear lift on the Jeep and wow

It was a three inch lift but ground up measurements shows 4" on the dot.I guess the leafs added an inch since the blocks went under them.I need to get some shocks so I can put the lift on the front and the polly spacers measure more than 3".Rear is lifted 4" and when I go to the 31"s it will be about 2 more inches so with the lift and tires should be 6" lift.

Got the front lifted this morning and got the 31x10.50's on there too.

**Dvader** · 06-21-2008, 05:33 AM

Sweet--I love my jeep
They trail run like no other

My 88wagoneer with a 6" lift and 31`s

[attachmentid=24745]

And my other lifted truck

93 6' lifted suburban with 33'`s
[attachmentid=24746]

KFXHELLRAISER · 06-21-2008, 08:19 AM

Quote:

Sweet--I love my jeep
They trail run like no other

My 88wagoneer with a 6" lift and 31`s

[attachmentid=24745]

And my other lifted truck

93 6' lifted suburban with 33'`s
[attachmentid=24746]
[/b]

Nice DV

I got too get the front shocks so I can lift it.

**KTM265** · 06-23-2008, 07:23 AM

Nice job... I lifted my Unlimited 2 inches. I put in some Rubicon springs, added the spacers then put shock extensions on...rides and looks great. Jeeps are just made to be lifted in my opinion.

**rokee_mtn** · 06-23-2008, 01:45 PM

If you measured the rear height at the rear bumper after only installing the rear lift- note that the rear bumper will get lower as you raise the front. Hopefully your measurement was at the centerline of the rear tire to the fender opening.

I also hope you don't plan to seriously off road it. Rear blocks are bad. They create too much leverage and twist the springs into an "S" as the diff pinion climbs under load- causing wheel hop. I've seen transfer case tail housings split from this on the trail a number of times (assuming the axle shafts and driveshaft u-joints survive the wheel hopping). A split tail housing is a "tow it" condition because you're probably not getting back out in front wheel drive (assuming you've duct taped your rear transfer case opening back closed and are willing to run without adequate fluid in it).

If you're using stock front coils and links with just those poly spacers you're going to find problems too. Do not ever put the front wheels up against an object and try to bump your way up it. You'll crumple the stock links due to the extra leverage on them (I see that all the time too). The geometry wants the tire to travel down when you bump into an object as it's trying to go up. At the very least, buy some spare stockers, as they're cheap stamped steel and $15 a piece. The budget spacer kits are intended for on pavement only. Hopefully your kit at least came with a lower drag link extension bracket. If not, your front wheels will be slightly offset to the driver's side. It gets quirky on the road because your front wheels aren't inline with your rear wheels.

You will even notice a substantial change in steering response and handling on road, as your camber changes if you're lifting with spacers without adding longer (or adjustable) lower link arms. Make sure you get an alignment as well or you'll see rapid tire wear due to the Y steering system they have. You'll know it's off as soon as you hop in the truck and see your steering wheel is 30 degrees off center to go straight down the road. It's worth the money for a cross over drag link now because they stay in alignment better- otherwise you'll be heading to the alignment shop every time you rub up against a curb parallel parking.

Also- carefully check the clearance of the 31's at the front with the wheels turned. I don't think you'll fit them with only a 3" lift if they're 31x10.50's. I feel fairly certain you couldn't take it off pavement with them or they'll snag the rear of your wheel well and start ripping pieces of your ride off and leaving them on the trail. Keep in mind with 6.5" of lift and major fender trimming, my 33's still rub at the rear and top of the front fenders when flexing off road. The front of my front fenders are trimmed even with the bottom of the grille, or they'd grab the front fenders there too and try to tear them off the truck.

Not trying to burst you bubble- as the Cherokee is one of the best off roaders out there and is a solid platform. I'm actually looking for another one myself right now. Just making sure you realize that a budget kit is meant to stay on road. We don't need you getting stuck out in the boonies by yourself.

**KTM265** · 06-24-2008, 07:27 AM

Good points there Rokee... I should have added that mine isn't set up for hard off-roading. Mine is set up for winter driving...narrow taller tires, higher ground clearance with the lift. Iowa doesn't have any really true "off-road" places to trail ride. The last park was changed over to ATV only a couple of years ago. What we do have is lots of snow and ice in the winter. Set it up for your needs...

KFXHELLRAISER · 06-24-2008, 07:46 AM

Quote:

Good points there Rokee... I should have added that mine isn't set up for hard off-roading. Mine is set up for winter driving...narrow taller tires, higher ground clearance with the lift. Iowa doesn't have any really true "off-road" places to trail ride. The last park was changed over to ATV only a couple of years ago. What we do have is lots of snow and ice in the winter. Set it up for your needs...
[/b]

I will light ride it at most so there should be no problems.