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Old 01-30-2011, 10:37 AM   #1
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Default Prairie 360 drive belt replacement & one other question

Let me start by saying I am no mechanic but can do simplier things. Well after giving our new used 2004 360 Prairie a good wash I noticed something I did not see before. Over the drive belt warning LED was black electrical tape. I blame myself as I am not knowledgeable about these machines and didn't even think to look closer but when washed it was apparent tape was covering something. So I took off the tape and the light was blinking. So took off the torque converter cover to inspect and compare with the service manual. Belt width is to be 1.17-1.22 inches. All I have is a 25 foot tape and it shows about 1 1/8" width. So well below specs. Which also means deflection is also way out of spec by maybe 1/2" or so.

Looking at the service manual it does not look like a simple belt change and adjustment. Several special tools and so forth. Or is it easier than it looks?

If it is difficult what are some general cost numbers I might expect to pay a dealer to replace?

Also since the belt is so worn is there other things that might need replacing as well in this area? If so what are they and what expense should I expect to see?

The other question I have is pertaining to idle when starting. When cold it will not stay running without giving some throttle. I played with the idle some and got it to stay running cold but after it warms up then the idle is way to high. When I got the bike I drained the fuel and added fresh with some carb cleaner in the mix. I also checked the plug and regapped. It appeared okay.
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Old 01-30-2011, 03:47 PM   #2
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1 1/8"=1.125". I think someone just didn't bother to reset your belt light when it needed to be. If the thing runs out ok and doesnt slip or rattle, I'd reset it and see what happens. As far as the cold running goes, I think some bikes are worse than others. I've owned 4 quads and my Brute is the worst as far as being cold-natured. My neighbor has an old Bayou 300 that he never even chokes and it idles right away when it's cold. I just don't start mine up until I'm ready to go andI take it easy for a minute or two to warm things up. I'm not saying that there's nothing wrong with your bike, just that the previous owner probably wasn't the best at keeping it up (in my opinion, the tape over the belt light says a lot about his lack of honesty). I'd change all the fluids, reset the belt light, and ride.
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Old 01-30-2011, 09:46 PM   #3
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if it is the belt its easy to change you can just take the bolts out of the cover roll the old belt off and roll the new one on, ive replaced a few and never had to adjust anything. make sure you use a factory belt not a aftermarket.
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Old 01-31-2011, 08:27 AM   #4
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Quote: Originally Posted by p360guy View Post
if it is the belt its easy to change you can just take the bolts out of the cover roll the old belt off and roll the new one on, ive replaced a few and never had to adjust anything. make sure you use a factory belt not a aftermarket.
Thanks. I will try that. Worst thing I guess would be to take it to a dealer and have them adjust/shim if required. But hopefully this is still the original belt and never has been adjusted and a new one will fit on and still be in specs.

I don't know how much narrower you can go and not have any problems but it is less than spec. by about 1/16"

Going to just go ahead and put in a new plug to see if that helps the cold running issue. Can not hurt and not a costly change.
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Old 01-31-2011, 02:45 PM   #5
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Quote: Originally Posted by radtexas View Post
Quote: Originally Posted by p360guy View Post
if it is the belt its easy to change you can just take the bolts out of the cover roll the old belt off and roll the new one on, ive replaced a few and never had to adjust anything. make sure you use a factory belt not a aftermarket.
Thanks. I will try that. Worst thing I guess would be to take it to a dealer and have them adjust/shim if required. But hopefully this is still the original belt and never has been adjusted and a new one will fit on and still be in specs.

I don't know how much narrower you can go and not have any problems but it is less than spec. by about 1/16"

Going to just go ahead and put in a new plug to see if that helps the cold running issue. Can not hurt and not a costly change.
Some of the 360's are set up to run real lean for emissions reasons, depends where you live. There is a cap on the carb that does not allow you to screw with the start up settings. I had the Kawai shop drill the cap off and set the carb for better cold weather starts. After that I could start it with no choke and it ran great. You will have to look to see if yours has the cap.
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Old 02-08-2011, 06:20 PM   #6
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Well got the new OEM belt on yesterday and noticed a drip from the carb bowl when I was working on the belt.

As for the belt the old was not OEM and the two looked to be the same width. However the length of the new belt was a little shorter and when I check the deflection it was right in specs.

Well back to the drip. After searching the forum and looking at the service manual there should be a hose running out of the bowl and a pvc check at the end. Can I just run a hose without the check without any issues? Also I read that the dripping could be dirt letting the fuel overflow. Once I get the belt back together and reset I will look into trying to open the drain, start the bike and throttle a few times to see if that cleans up the drip.

I guess worst case would be to rebuild the carb??
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Old 02-09-2011, 08:45 PM   #7
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Quote: Originally Posted by p360guy View Post
if it is the belt its easy to change you can just take the bolts out of the cover roll the old belt off and roll the new one on, ive replaced a few and never had to adjust anything. make sure you use a factory belt not a aftermarket.
Rolling the belt on and off is a no no just get the puller your going to need it sooner or later for working on the primary clutch
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Old 03-31-2011, 09:25 AM   #8
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Your starting/idling problem will be the valve clearances. They where set too tight from the factory on lots of (all?) 360s.

Set them to
0.15-0.20mm / .0059- .0079 exhaust
0.08-0.13mm / .0032-.0051 intake

After 4 years of frustation, with the exact issues you describe, I did this on mine and it is like a new bike- starts, runs and idles perfectly!
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Old 03-31-2011, 09:43 AM   #9
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Is this an easy thing to do? Do I have to take lots of stuff off to do it? I have done a few things on the atv so far. Rebuilt the carb which did help it some. Except it still drips fuel out the bottom after it has been sitting a while. Current fix is to turn off the fuel after riding as I think it builds up slowly when not running.
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Old 03-31-2011, 11:09 AM   #10
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These are easy jobs, some little work, but nothing to worry. To adjust the valeve you have to take off some plastics and the fuel tank to get to the intake valve, but it's easy.

"On the left side of the engine you will see a cap on top of the engine cover. Your timing marks are on the flywheel under this cap. On top of the cylinder head there is a valve cover in the front and rear. Remove these. Remove your spark plug.
You can remove the recoil cover and use a wrench on the end of the flywheel, or just use the rope. Rotate the motor while watching the intake valve open and close. Go to the T mark on the flywheel. This is TDC on the compression stroke. Adjust the intake valve to .13mm and the exhaust to .18mm. Rotate the motor over a few times and double check your work. That's it."
The spark plug I put in mine is the iridium one, is better.
To take off the belt i have to buy the primary puller (epi), the secondary have some spacers that you can adjust the deflection, i do the tool, very easy.
Taking off the carb to clean it's also easy, check the valve float maybe you have to change it.
Good luck.

Last edited by ALDO; 03-31-2011 at 11:17 AM.
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