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Old 06-18-2011, 09:27 PM   #1
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Default Pilot needle adjustment

My bike is back-firing and lagging on take off. It clears up once you get past 1/4 throttle. It acts like it is leaning out on the bottom end. I was going to fatten up the pilot needles, but I can't get my hands in there to turn the needles. Is there some trick tool or do I have to pull the carbs to adjust them? (Surely not. lol)
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#1 05 Brute 750 4x4I Camo
DynaTek FS CDI and coils, Muzzy Super Pro Duals
30" Silverbacks on 14" ITP SS212's, Elka Stage 1's
3" Center Snorks, ODI Rouge Grips, HDPE Skids
Wild Boar Radiator Relocate, Highlifter Signature 2" Lift Warn 3500 ProVantage

#2 07 Brute 750 4x4I Team Green
DynaTek FS CDI, HMF Penland Pro,Center Snorks, HDPE Skids, Brush Guard, Aluminum Bumper
30" Mud Lights on 14" ITP SS106's, Warn RT2500
Wild Boar Radiator Relocate, Highlifter Signature 2" Lift
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Old 06-18-2011, 09:29 PM   #2
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You mean the fuel screws? I don't know about the 750 but on the sra you can get to them with a screw driver.
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Old 06-18-2011, 10:41 PM   #3
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I wish it was that easy on 4x4i bikes. I think the SRAs my be different. These screws are on the bottom of the carbs by the bowls. You can't get your hand under there. I tried with a bit from a 4in1 screwdriver. They show a special tool that looks like a flex driver with a 90 degree bend at the end.
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#1 05 Brute 750 4x4I Camo
DynaTek FS CDI and coils, Muzzy Super Pro Duals
30" Silverbacks on 14" ITP SS212's, Elka Stage 1's
3" Center Snorks, ODI Rouge Grips, HDPE Skids
Wild Boar Radiator Relocate, Highlifter Signature 2" Lift Warn 3500 ProVantage

#2 07 Brute 750 4x4I Team Green
DynaTek FS CDI, HMF Penland Pro,Center Snorks, HDPE Skids, Brush Guard, Aluminum Bumper
30" Mud Lights on 14" ITP SS106's, Warn RT2500
Wild Boar Radiator Relocate, Highlifter Signature 2" Lift
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Old 06-19-2011, 05:03 AM   #4
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Yeah the sra must have a bit more room......they are still where you describe but I can get to them with a screw driver no probs.
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Old 06-19-2011, 05:10 AM   #5
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Default pilot adjust

I have an 05 750i,and I use a 6 in 1 screwdriver. I take the 1/4" end out of it and use it with the small flat blade tip - yeah it's tight,but you can get in there and turn that 1/4" adaptor with your fingers.You just have to make adjustments when shes cold,or wrap a thin towel/rag on top of your hand when shes hot,so you don't burn your hands on coolant piping -been there - lol.........Oh yeah,the screws your talking about are the air/fuel mixture screws on the bottom of each carb. What size pilots do you have? Are you getting popping out the carbs? Did you try to restrict air, or turn on your choke when this condition occours? I have a 2" intake snorkle to the air box,uni air filter,stock cdi,stock engine,Kehin #150 main jet front/#152 rear,#40 pilots,and I still have to restrict air into the intake snorkle,to get her to run great. I plan on bummpimg up main jets a little at a time till shes good without restricting air into intake snorkle - and in doing so you have to keep checking those spark plugs to get a brown paper bag colour - just don't go to the whiteish colour.

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Old 06-19-2011, 03:49 PM   #6
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Where do I buy pilots from. I live in the boonies and have to mail order all of my stuff. I'm running 152 front and 158 rear. i have a 38 pilot, it could help bumping it up to a 40. I'm going to shim the needles and see if that helps.
I did manage to get my hands in there and turn the fuel/air screws. At 3 turns out, it ran better, but not as well as it should.
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#1 05 Brute 750 4x4I Camo
DynaTek FS CDI and coils, Muzzy Super Pro Duals
30" Silverbacks on 14" ITP SS212's, Elka Stage 1's
3" Center Snorks, ODI Rouge Grips, HDPE Skids
Wild Boar Radiator Relocate, Highlifter Signature 2" Lift Warn 3500 ProVantage

#2 07 Brute 750 4x4I Team Green
DynaTek FS CDI, HMF Penland Pro,Center Snorks, HDPE Skids, Brush Guard, Aluminum Bumper
30" Mud Lights on 14" ITP SS106's, Warn RT2500
Wild Boar Radiator Relocate, Highlifter Signature 2" Lift
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Old 06-19-2011, 04:03 PM   #7
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Try RM ATV or Motosport.com maybe? I would try shimming the needles first as it's free apart from the washers(#4). If that don't work go to the #40 pilots.
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Old 06-19-2011, 04:52 PM   #8
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Cool Kawboy. I shimed the needles once when I first bought the bike. 2 washers under them was too much. I didn't really know what I was doing, just hit and miss trying to get it dialed in. I'll try one washer and see where that hits. This thing should should leave the the line like a cheetah on cocaine. It is awesome once you get it past the low end lag.
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#1 05 Brute 750 4x4I Camo
DynaTek FS CDI and coils, Muzzy Super Pro Duals
30" Silverbacks on 14" ITP SS212's, Elka Stage 1's
3" Center Snorks, ODI Rouge Grips, HDPE Skids
Wild Boar Radiator Relocate, Highlifter Signature 2" Lift Warn 3500 ProVantage

#2 07 Brute 750 4x4I Team Green
DynaTek FS CDI, HMF Penland Pro,Center Snorks, HDPE Skids, Brush Guard, Aluminum Bumper
30" Mud Lights on 14" ITP SS106's, Warn RT2500
Wild Boar Radiator Relocate, Highlifter Signature 2" Lift
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Old 06-22-2011, 06:59 PM   #9
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Shimmed needles with 2 #4 washers and running pilot screws at 3 1/2 turns out and it's still wanting more juice on the bottom end. I ordered #40 pilot jets from Rocky Mountain and will put them in Saturday.
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#1 05 Brute 750 4x4I Camo
DynaTek FS CDI and coils, Muzzy Super Pro Duals
30" Silverbacks on 14" ITP SS212's, Elka Stage 1's
3" Center Snorks, ODI Rouge Grips, HDPE Skids
Wild Boar Radiator Relocate, Highlifter Signature 2" Lift Warn 3500 ProVantage

#2 07 Brute 750 4x4I Team Green
DynaTek FS CDI, HMF Penland Pro,Center Snorks, HDPE Skids, Brush Guard, Aluminum Bumper
30" Mud Lights on 14" ITP SS106's, Warn RT2500
Wild Boar Radiator Relocate, Highlifter Signature 2" Lift
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Old 06-22-2011, 07:02 PM   #10
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Any better though?
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