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Old 04-24-2012, 04:39 AM   #21
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I havent tore into it yet but it has been smoking a bit and just doestnt seem to have the power along with the chattering but if thats true about boreing if the cylinders not bad i might consider just honing and stock piston and rings i just want to do everything it needs at once just need to save up a little $
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Old 04-24-2012, 06:18 PM   #22
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Quote: Originally Posted by Denning12591 View Post
From my understanding you don't bore for power you bore because the cylinder is worn. You only want to bore what u have to no more. Then new piston n rings n it's like new. N was the cylinder very worn? Or did it have scratches or gouges? You would notice a lot of smoke and low compression if your rings were bad. Check for play on your rod. No up and down play
over boring small engine like these might give you 10cc's worth of power. not a big increase by any means. the difference people generally notice is the fact that they have a fresh top end which "feels more powerful" than their old worn out engine. i decided to rebore and new piston and rings because 1st, the compression was under 100psi, 2nd, the p/o ran it w/ a broken oil pump, thus over heating the engine several times, 3rd the stock piston was about 1 mm narower from side to side than from front to back, 4th the jug was pretty scratched up and honing didnt remove scratches to my liking, 5th the top ring was more worn down than any ive seen. i didnt take measurments of it but it was so worn that it was almost square top to bot/side to side. 6th smoke. 7th slapping.
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Old 04-24-2012, 06:27 PM   #23
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oh, and there wasnt any up and down play in the connecting rod thank God. did notice some serious wear in the rocker arm surfaces though. again, busted oil pump gear strikes again. why they made that thing with a plastic gear that can not be purchaces seperatly from the actual oil pump assembly, ill never know.
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Old 04-25-2012, 03:47 AM   #24
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Yea you can get rings for like $25 off eBay and you may not need a new piston depending how long the rings were worn. N use a flex hone to hone cylinder. It cost me $40 from rocky mountain ATV n it was easy to use. N the chattering could be the piston but kinda sounds like valves. Check the valves and adjust. Also while you have the head off make sure there is no up n down play in the piston rod. Then a top end gasket set isn't to much. I got the whole engine gasket kit for like $35 on eBay. Then you will need some non hardening gasket sealer. Around $5. So for around 100 you should be able to do it all yourself. Just look over the piston and cylinder good. If its chewed up you will want to get it bored. .20 is the most I'd try to do. Then u can get a weisco piston and ringS. Top end kit like $150. But just see how it looks when u
tear it down.
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Old 04-25-2012, 04:56 AM   #25
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Thanks alot man waitin to move into new house so once i get situated im gonna take it apart and see what all i need
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Old 04-25-2012, 08:53 PM   #26
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Sounds good let mme know if u need anything. If u have to tear the bottom end sort you will need the flywheel puller. I can't remember the size but I got one for.$35. I used a screwdriver and hammer.and had someone hold the shaft to get the balancer nut off. N if u get a new piston u will need the piston rod that holds in on the crank rod. I would think it would come with it. And you will need new circlips for the end of piston rod. It says to put new ones in every time u take em out. There cheap. Make sure you wash around the engine really good before takeing it apart. You done want dirt falling down into the case.
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Old 04-26-2012, 07:12 AM   #27
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Thanks man im looking at the weisco piston kit it looks somplete with everything for 150 doesnt seem like a bad price
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Old 04-27-2012, 02:42 PM   #28
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whole top end kit by namura [(s/p)?] ebay $80-90 w/ gaskets. ive not had any problems w/ these pistons. fyi
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Old 02-12-2013, 01:25 PM   #29
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I bought my son a 1994 Kawasaki Bayou 220 and since then I've been lurking on this forum for quite a while now looking for answers to problems. Most of which I have found without having to post anyting. I saw this post and watched the video on page 1 and I have the same noise. Has this been diagnoised and solved by the ones posting about it? If so, what did you find?

I am experiencing this noise plus what I would consider to be a large amount of crankcase pressure venting out of both ends of the hoses from the PCV valve and coming out around all the rubber seals with electic wire running through them. I have adjusted the valves to .008 on the intake and .009 on the exhaust and while the compression check went higher, the blow by is still about the same. No smoke on start up out of the exhaust or while running, just smoke and pressure from the PCV valve. I have adjusted the timing chain also. I am leaning towards buying a top end kit, but I just wanted a little conformation before I tore into it.

Also, on the top end kits, I've been told different stories on honing the cylinder. I am leaning towards using a ball hone. What is everyone's experience with this, to do it or not to do it? If you did, what grit ball hone did you use? Someone on eBay is selling one that stats it's for the 220 with a grit of 320. I've been told that different rings require different grits. I wrote Namura and asked them what they recommended, but they haven't responded.

I know this may be considered to be a "dead thread," but I hate making new ones when all the information found here could benefit a lot of people searching for answers. Thanks.

Last edited by Wisewr; 02-12-2013 at 01:28 PM.
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Old 02-13-2013, 04:03 AM   #30
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Quote: Originally Posted by Wisewr View Post
I bought my son a 1994 Kawasaki Bayou 220 and since then I've been lurking on this forum for quite a while now looking for answers to problems. Most of which I have found without having to post anyting. I saw this post and watched the video on page 1 and I have the same noise. Has this been diagnoised and solved by the ones posting about it? If so, what did you find?

I am experiencing this noise plus what I would consider to be a large amount of crankcase pressure venting out of both ends of the hoses from the PCV valve and coming out around all the rubber seals with electic wire running through them. I have adjusted the valves to .008 on the intake and .009 on the exhaust and while the compression check went higher, the blow by is still about the same. No smoke on start up out of the exhaust or while running, just smoke and pressure from the PCV valve. I have adjusted the timing chain also. I am leaning towards buying a top end kit, but I just wanted a little conformation before I tore into it.

Also, on the top end kits, I've been told different stories on honing the cylinder. I am leaning towards using a ball hone. What is everyone's experience with this, to do it or not to do it? If you did, what grit ball hone did you use? Someone on eBay is selling one that stats it's for the 220 with a grit of 320. I've been told that different rings require different grits. I wrote Namura and asked them what they recommended, but they haven't responded.

I know this may be considered to be a "dead thread," but I hate making new ones when all the information found here could benefit a lot of people searching for answers. Thanks.
as far as the top end engine noise, im probably going to upset the die hard kawi guys out there but im going to tell you MY EXPERIENCE W/ KAWIS. over the last 2 1/2 yrs i have had 5 kawi 3 and 4 wheelers come through my garage from an 83 110 to an 06 250 and EVERY ONE OF THEM HAS HAD SEVERE ROCKER ARM AND/OR CAM WEAR. 2 were clearly due to a broken or siezed oil pump but the other 3 had a functioning oil pump(when i got them at least) i dont know about you, but i dont like those odds. 5 for 5. im not here to start a brand war and im sure there are people out there w/ 25 yr old kawis w/ no top end wear at all, but im not impressed kawasaki. my point is this; if your kwai engine is makin lots of top end noise and your valves are gapped proper, check your rockers.
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