Brute Force acceleration problems - Kawasaki ATV Forum
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post #1 of 16 Old 12-26-2011, 09:40 AM Thread Starter
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Exclamation Brute Force acceleration problems

hey, whats up? i am NOT mechanically inclined in any way, so bear with me.
I have a 2007 Brute Force 750, and i have been having problems with it when accelerating. it seems that a majority of the time when i start to push the throttle, the machine acts like it is bogging down and instead of accelerating, it actually does the opposite and dies and shuts off. this had been a problem for a while, but went away and i thought it had maybe fixed itself. but now this happens every time i go out in the mud. my moms ex boyfriend (who i no longer talk to) is a mechanic and said that it could be a crack in the coil, whatever that means.. i have also thought that maybe it could be a problem with the snorkels or maybe the clutch, because the gears grind sometimes when shifting between high and reverse and there are times where the bike will start to roll without touching the throttle, as if the choke was on. plus, i always smell rubber when i ride, which leads me to think that its the belt. please help me out here, i love this thing but havent gotten to ride it in a long time. and please dumb down any advice as much as possible lol, i have no idea what i'm doing
also, i have done no work at all to it in the 8 months that i've had it, except change the spark plugs once.

Last edited by dookie132; 12-26-2011 at 10:05 AM.
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post #2 of 16 Old 12-26-2011, 01:26 PM
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Looks like it needs some love. The bogging down could be because of dirty carburators(if it's indeed carburated). Or maybe the fuel pump is going bad(if it's Fuel injected). I seen that problem come up in the forums quite often.

Your clutch needs to be checked. It should not smell like burning rubber.

As far as the grinding when shifting and the quad crawling forward without throttle, try and lower the idle speed.(big knob on the right side of the engine when sitting down on it)

2004 Prairie 700, Progressive front suspension springs, Muzzy exhaust, NAPA hose mod, Twin-Air powerflow kit, Crossover intakes, Dyna CDI, Maroon primary, 25'' Dirtdevil tires, 1.5'' Wheel spacers.
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post #3 of 16 Old 12-26-2011, 01:39 PM
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Several issues on the go; you need to find a good mechanic.

2002 698 Prairie
VFJ 11.5:1 coated pistons
FST Stage II Cams
Fundy Performance Porting, 1mm milled off heads
Kibblewhite valves
Crossover intakes
Modded airbox
Full Muzzy
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2011 Stratos 186XT Bass Boat
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post #4 of 16 Old 12-26-2011, 03:25 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rundown View Post
Looks like it needs some love. The bogging down could be because of dirty carburators(if it's indeed carburated). Or maybe the fuel pump is going bad(if it's Fuel injected). I seen that problem come up in the forums quite often.

Your clutch needs to be checked. It should not smell like burning rubber.

As far as the grinding when shifting and the quad crawling forward without throttle, try and lower the idle speed.(big knob on the right side of the engine when sitting down on it)
this is a carburated machine, so how do i go about cleaning the carbs? and what exactly do i check for when looking at the clutch? and how do i even get to the clutch?
thanks for the help so far
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post #5 of 16 Old 12-26-2011, 03:44 PM
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The clutch is under the big black cover on the right side of the engine. You can take it off and start the engine to see how it operates with the wheels off the ground and giving it some gas. If you go mudding all the time and make the belt slips often it will wear it out to the point it slips very easily.

If you can use tools without breaking everything you see, it should be simple enough to take the carbs off. I've a 700 and it's not the same thing so i can't tell you the exact method. Look around the forums and you should find a link to a shop manual for you 750. It's your best bet if you want to do the work yourself.

I managed to take them off on mine without any experience or book though. Like i said it's simple enough. If you need some help when disassembling come here and ask. People will help you out.

Like NovaKaw650 said, there are several issues going on there. These machines are not hondas. You ''need'' to do basic maintenance if you don't want things like that to happen.

2004 Prairie 700, Progressive front suspension springs, Muzzy exhaust, NAPA hose mod, Twin-Air powerflow kit, Crossover intakes, Dyna CDI, Maroon primary, 25'' Dirtdevil tires, 1.5'' Wheel spacers.

Last edited by Rundown; 12-26-2011 at 03:49 PM.
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post #6 of 16 Old 12-27-2011, 12:35 AM Thread Starter
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okay, thanks for the help. i plan on getting out there soon and having a stab at it, and i'll post what i find
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post #7 of 16 Old 12-27-2011, 05:48 AM
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here is my thoughts , your bogging down could be a few different issue's , could be dirty carbs like mentioned already , wouldnt hurt to take them apart and clean them , it could be the fuel pump not working properly , or it could be the fuel check valve (fuel filter) is clogged up with stuff , if you follow your fuel line where it comes out of the top of the fuel tank you will see a little white coloured filter , just before the fuel line runs into the frame , you can pop that off and make sure it is clean on the inside . Another thing to check is under the seat, if you take the control unit and lift it straight up , the control unit is the large black ( think it is black) square thing , it has 3 plugs going to it , lift it up and under it you will see a little metal thing called a fuel tap , make sure the it is in the "ON' postion and not the "PRI" position . The "PRI" postion is only used if the carbs have been taken apart for cleaning and they need extra gas to get the bike running , as soon as the bike starts,you turn it back to the "On" postion .

now the bike creaping forward is just the idle adjustment screw , located right by the recoil starter( pull start) , you will see it is a little black plastic guy right by the handle of the pull start , all you need to do to that is probably back it out abit till the bike doesnt creap forward on you , it doesnt take much to adjust it .adjusting this may also help with the grinding you are experiencing , but also a few people have asked that question about their bikes grinding when they put it into gear , I have had it happen at times also , dont put it into gear slowly, jam it into gear , not while your moving though or the wheels are spinning in mud,make sure your are stopped and wheels have stopped spinning .

As for the smell of rubber , you shouldnt smell rubber , this is bad lol . Take the cvt cover off ( black cover on the right right side of the bike if sitting on it , right by your foot) and inspect the belt , if it is missing cogs replace it , if you can see strings and stuff dangling from the edges of the belt.....replace it, check to see if maybe it is to tight , check the primary and secondary clutches to see if they are glazed ( black stuff on them from the belt).

You have snorkels on the bike , maybe the carbs need to jetted ( I have no idea or clue about that stuff , it is more than I know right now lol) but im sure someone on here can help .

But before you go and rip everything apart , start with the fuel problem and go from there , you cant fix everything all at once , dont rip into the fuel system and then jump into the belt and clutching before the fuel system is fixed , start with one problem and after that is fixed , move on to the next and take your time , take pics if you need to so you remember how everything goes back together ,there are also alot of sites like Parts Shark and Parts Nation that have schmatics on line to help with assembly and disassembly .

08 650 I Bruteforce
27" mudzillas,on 212 Itp rims
HMF Performance pipe
2" lift kit
Grease zerk mod on A-arms
Cdi dyna tech
Diamond G racing tierods
2500 lb warn winch
custom made HDPE Skid plates and a-arm guards
Front storage box Mod
MIMB 2" Snorkel's
Wild Boar Rad relocate
Etrex Gps
5 ft easy mount plow

Last edited by BrutemanAl; 12-27-2011 at 05:52 AM. Reason: Cause i did :)
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post #8 of 16 Old 12-27-2011, 01:31 PM Thread Starter
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okay, so i took the clutch cover off and checked the belt, it seems to be in perfect condition. however, there is some dirt in the cover, so should i wash it out or what?
next up, im going to look at the carbs and i'll post what i find
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post #9 of 16 Old 12-27-2011, 04:28 PM
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how much slack is in your belt

08 650 I Bruteforce
27" mudzillas,on 212 Itp rims
HMF Performance pipe
2" lift kit
Grease zerk mod on A-arms
Cdi dyna tech
Diamond G racing tierods
2500 lb warn winch
custom made HDPE Skid plates and a-arm guards
Front storage box Mod
MIMB 2" Snorkel's
Wild Boar Rad relocate
Etrex Gps
5 ft easy mount plow
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post #10 of 16 Old 12-27-2011, 04:39 PM
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Just use compressed air to clean it. DON'T PUT ANY OILY STUFF ON IT! Don't use break cleaner or any other strong solvent. The sheaves don't like it.

This is how it should work. (The belt is loose i know. that why the cover is off)

2004 Prairie 700, Progressive front suspension springs, Muzzy exhaust, NAPA hose mod, Twin-Air powerflow kit, Crossover intakes, Dyna CDI, Maroon primary, 25'' Dirtdevil tires, 1.5'' Wheel spacers.
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