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Old 04-07-2012, 10:35 PM   #1
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Default First service 2012 Brute 750

So, I'm over 100 miles, and just about to 10 hours. The manual isn't as straight forward as I thought it would be, as far as the maintenance schedule. Besides engine oil change, what do I need to do, when I hit 10 hours? Is there anything that needs to be done by a dealer? I want to make sure I don't skip anything that might give me issues with the warranty.
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Old 04-08-2012, 03:20 AM   #2
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I was wondering the same thing. So far I only have about 3 hours on my 2012 but thats just cause I'm at work.
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Old 04-08-2012, 03:49 AM   #3
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I would do motor oil & filter, front & rear diff oils, check valves & belt deflection, check throttle and diff lock adjustment, check air filter & generally run over the whole machine to check for anything that may be loose like tie rods, wheels & bearings, exhaust, wheel alignment etc.


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Old 04-08-2012, 04:14 AM   #4
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Quote: Originally Posted by kawboy1 View Post
I would do motor oil & filter, front & rear diff oils, check valves & belt deflection, check throttle and diff lock adjustment, check air filter & generally run over the whole machine to check for anything that may be loose like tie rods, wheels & bearings, exhaust, wheel alignment etc.


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That's a good, all encompassing list.
I personally wouldn't check the valves at this point, especially if I had to pay a dealer to do it. I don't check the belt deflection unless I sense there's a problem, but that comes with experience. That being said, many of the new Kawasaki's seem to be coming with the belt set too loose, so it ought to be checked.
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Old 04-08-2012, 05:55 AM   #5
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How do you check belt deflection?
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Old 04-08-2012, 08:55 AM   #6
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also check brake adjustment..2 wing nuts by rear driveline..should be able to set rear brake and should stay put on a hill or not be able to push it
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Old 04-08-2012, 08:56 AM   #7
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Quote: Originally Posted by NovaKaw650 View Post
Quote: Originally Posted by kawboy1 View Post
I would do motor oil & filter, front & rear diff oils, check valves & belt deflection, check throttle and diff lock adjustment, check air filter & generally run over the whole machine to check for anything that may be loose like tie rods, wheels & bearings, exhaust, wheel alignment etc.


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That's a good, all encompassing list.
I personally wouldn't check the valves at this point, especially if I had to pay a dealer to do it. I don't check the belt deflection unless I sense there's a problem, but that comes with experience. That being said, many of the new Kawasaki's seem to be coming with the belt set too loose, so it ought to be checked.
yep, my belt was really loose..tripped the sensor..dealership had to adjust with 4 miles on the bike!!!!
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Old 01-19-2016, 09:54 AM   #8
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I bought my 2013 brute force 750 brand new last winter. At the 10 hour I did the oil change, front and rear crank cases. I didn't do the valve check, belt check and exhaust check. Wheels and bearings seem fine when I looked at them in the shop. Seems to run just fine. Should I get it in to have them check those few things before I use it here in a month? Currently have 450 miles and 20 or so hours on it

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Old 01-19-2016, 09:56 AM   #9
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I think the 2012 SE is the best looking Brute out of the all.

It would look AWESOME with all the stickers removed.
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Old 01-19-2016, 10:32 AM   #10
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Quote: Originally Posted by bruterider92 View Post
I bought my 2013 brute force 750 brand new last winter. At the 10 hour I did the oil change, front and rear crank cases. I didn't do the valve check, belt check and exhaust check. Wheels and bearings seem fine when I looked at them in the shop. Seems to run just fine. Should I get it in to have them check those few things before I use it here in a month? Currently have 450 miles and 20 or so hours on it
I wouldn't yet but that's just me. I would at least check the valves and the belt in the 800-1000 mile range just to see where they are. The rest just use common sense.
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