Kawasaki ATV Forum Header   Kawasaki ATV Forum Header Right
Go Back   Kawasaki ATV Forum > Kawasaki ATV Performance / Maintenance / Technical > Kawasaki Brute Force/Prairie/Bayou

Kawasaki Brute Force/Prairie/Bayou Kawasaki's strong and reliable utility ATVs

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 09-19-2012, 05:46 AM   #11
Junior Member
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 20
View Bayou250020's Photo Gallery(0)
Default

In terms of timing the engine its fairly straight forwards with marks lined up and then installing tensioner and releasing the tensioner when installed to take up the slack out of chain and then making sure the set screw is fully down. In saying this I remembered one thing is the lever which removes compression while pull starting working correctly? You feel a little extra resistance when you pull fully up? If it feels fishy take the set screw 10mm out and just pull the lever straight out and check from there.

Height of the lobe would have to be measured with the cam out and a caliper. But before that you can visually check the top of the lobe for rounding or damage through the service holes for the valves. Worse case I know its not very accurate I could get my dial gauge if you have one too and tell you how high the valve actually goes up that will give you an idea. This is also a worst case scenario because even with a bad cam it should start. Also did the valve stems have a tight tolerance? Could you move the valve side to side?

The valve clearance is good. If everything is ok then I would think the mechanical portion of the bike is perfectly fine and to look at the carb.

"I got it, cleaned it up, pulled start it and seen it blowing gas out of the carb." was this while it was running or just when you pull start it and the motor never started? If not then try a little starting fluid and see how she runs.

Were the jets upgraded? maybe way too much gas for the air to fuel ratio causing some to pop out the back

Oh also check the choke and make sure its not pulled, the needle could also be stuck inside the carb., make sure its smooth with no marks, its a 12mm nut on top.
Bayou250020 is offline   Reply With Quote
KawieRiders is the premier Kawasaki ATV Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see these ads. Please Register - It's Free!
Old 09-19-2012, 01:59 PM   #12
Junior Member
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 10
View banks0531's Photo Gallery(0)
Default

I will check the compression release and see if its catching. I never had it running, I sprayed starting fluid in carb with the gas off and it never fired, just blew it back on my hand when I was hand choking. Something I did notice, the choke is missing, the whole thing at the carb to the handle bar. Someone took silicone and filled in hole where choke would be.
banks0531 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-19-2012, 03:36 PM   #13
Junior Member
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 10
View banks0531's Photo Gallery(0)
Default

I took starting fluid and sprayed in spark plug hole and got nothing. I checked and I do have spark. Pull rope broke after doing that so I gave up on it for today. I'm almost wish now I could find a good used motor Forsale for cheap and swap it out.
banks0531 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-19-2012, 05:24 PM   #14
Junior Member
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 10
View banks0531's Photo Gallery(0)
Default

Update. I repaired the pull rope, pulled like crazy, got one back fire pop. Tried the electric start, starter must be bad or bad starter relay. Got my wife on the other bayou and I pulled it around the yard in 4th and 3rd gear. Had it pop again and at one time it started to suck, but I stopped, spray alittle starting fluid and pulled again, then it just did like it used to, blow out carb. Im about to give up, this thing must not be made to run again.
banks0531 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-20-2012, 08:52 AM   #15
Junior Member
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 20
View Bayou250020's Photo Gallery(0)
Default

If that choke is missing then i would remove the choke needle and see if its even there! Might just be a dummy nut!

Too much gas flow the 220 will not start, the needle has to seat to stop the flow if its wide open then your not going anywhere. Since the motor is in non working condition i am sure someone before you played with the carb to see if it affected anything.

Starter motor does it click when you press the start button? There is a solenoid next to the battery its is round with a 20amp fuse(under the connector cover of the solenoid) if it does not make a noise this is your problem. If the battery is low it can make a buzzing noise when pushed, not enough amps to get starter going and don't continue to do it you will over heat solenoid and possible pop the fuse.

Ok one last recommendation to you before you torch it.
One since you have another 220 try another Cdi box its mounted to the left side of the airbox. This can cause erratic timing if bad or limiting of rpm or just no start. Maybe its not the engine blowing but pre-ignition of some sort.

*Read whole thing before you start

*Before you do this take pictures of it mounted and the inside of it with a camera just encase you forget something or have to order parts you remember how things go back.

If that doesn't work the very last thing i would do, (since even with a new or used engine the carb has to work correctly) is remove the carb. which if you unscrew the bracket at the back of the carb. and the bracket at the air box and remove 2 10mm screws you can remove the airbox and get access to carb a little easier. When you get it out make sure you check the choke needle, its small and brass if non existent get one. Also check the accelerator needle, this is plastic with a long needle. Then remove the bottom of the bowl 4 screws and make sure its clean if not clean it carb cleaner scotch brite whatever works just don't damage the seal. Then if you push the pin that holds 2 black floats by getting a pin and pushing or most times just putting the carb on its side, the needle which cuts gas flow should come up with it. The needle should have a rubber head make sure its free of debri and in nice shape no tears or odd ends, if not clean it or replace part (Compressed air works well for passages). Then remove the main jet(should have an O-ring at the base of it),(tallest one in there) use a big flat screwdriver and remove it. Check the tip for debri, and poke a wire make sure its clean. Then remove the pilot jet right below that one, its a smaller screw driver. Do the same to that and clean it.

ok now check the holes in the carb. make sure there free of debri where the jets sit. A wire should poke through from the bowl side to the air side.

Last thing would be to check the knobs and make sure somebody didn't mess with them. One is the idle knob big brass knurled knob on the left side of the carb(front position being in relation to mounted to engine) you can turn this with your fingers, remove it and clean tip and check for debri then just screw it all the way in turning clock wise and 2 full turns counter clockwise when it starts you can readjust this easily if low or high RPM. Now look at the small brass screw towards the front of the carb. it actually stick past the fuel bowl if needed put fuel bowl on and look for a brass screw. Same with this remove it and check for debri then screw it all the way in and then 1.5 turns out. This should be a base setting for your carb. From this point put carb back together and install JUST the fuel line and unscrew the little brass screw on the left side of the fuel bowl its there to remove dirt from bowl but this way you can see if the gas flows. As its unscrewed, turn the gas to reserve or on and see if it flows out of the hole at the bottom of the bowl next to the screw, if so then its filling the carb and your ok to close it. Once closed make sure that after 30 sec or so you do not see any other tube leaking. This would be the float needle not properly closing.
In which you did something wrong and you would remove the bowl again and check.

If everything ok put carb and everything back and try and fire it up.

*PS don't over tight screws or jets once there's resistance give it just a little turn, especially the bowl or else you will find you broke the gasket and have to buy a kit.

* Also if the seal gets stuck when removing the bowl use a sharp knife and gently help it peel away.
Bayou250020 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-22-2012, 06:16 PM   #16
Junior Member
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 20
View Bayou250020's Photo Gallery(0)
Default

any luck
Bayou250020 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-08-2013, 10:18 AM   #17
Junior Member
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Ohio
Posts: 12
View Ghost_Prime's Photo Gallery(0)
Default blowback

My 92 Bayou 220 acted similarly when I bought it. Turned out the timing chain had slipped several teeth due to the chain tensioner being way loose. once that was fixed, it stopped blowing out and ran great.
Ghost_Prime is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-28-2014, 09:25 AM   #18
Junior Member
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 1
View Sweetielea's Photo Gallery(0)
Default Timing bayou 220 piston is down when mark says it should b TDC

When I align the "T" mark on the crankcase in the view window the piston is always in the down position. I have been told by many many people that it should be in the top deed center position. What is causing mine to be on the bottom of the stroke?
Sweetielea is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Back to Top    Lower Navigation
Go Back   Kawasaki ATV Forum > Kawasaki ATV Performance / Maintenance / Technical > Kawasaki Brute Force/Prairie/Bayou


Search tags for this page

220 bayou timing

,
220 bayou timing marks
,
atv timing off
,

bayou 220 timing

,
how to adjust valves on a kawasaki bayou 220
,

how to set the timing on a kawasaki bayou 220

,
how to set timing on 220 bayou
,

how to set timing on kawasaki bayou 220

,
how to time a 220 bayou
,

how to time a kawasaki bayou 220

,

kawasaki bayou 220 timing marks

,
kawasaki bayou blows fuel out carb blows
,
set timing kawasaki bayou 220
Click on a term to search our sites for related topics.

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
timing chain issues 360 pra td service Kawasaki Brute Force/Prairie/Bayou 7 12-04-2011 11:09 AM
95 bayou 400 carb issues Dcgoins Kawasaki Brute Force/Prairie/Bayou 2 06-11-2011 07:39 AM
bayou timing chain geewiz Kawasaki Brute Force/Prairie/Bayou 1 04-27-2011 07:17 PM
220 bayou timing marks? tazmaniac_37752 Kawasaki Brute Force/Prairie/Bayou 2 10-20-2010 07:40 PM
Bayou 400 issues T3hk1w1 Kawasaki Brute Force/Prairie/Bayou 5 09-17-2009 02:04 AM

» Discount Tire
Motosport.com

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.2

All times are GMT -7. The time now is 04:09 AM.