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Old 12-07-2012, 02:35 AM   #1
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Default BF 750 twin carb sync ?

I've been on this site for some time and found great and useful information about how to's on my 05 Brute. It's an on going battle to keep it running smoothly. It's been a learning process for the 5 years I've owned it. Most issues have stemmed from carb issues after snorkeling, dyno jet kit bad install directions, stale gas from time to time and even mud plugging up choke plungers with weak springs not closing them properly. The site has been a great place to find tips and tricks to on what to look for.
With all of my attempts to adjust and fiddle with the carbs in attempts to find the solutions to backfire problems I have adjusted the sync on the carbs. Once using the #30 drill bit method and another using a borrowed old sync vacuum tool used to sit over each port to get a reading and even by ear. None seemed to prove to be very accurate. Now I seem to have the Engine running great I need to confirm the carbs are synced to prevent future damage. I'm liking the idea of making a vacuum line syncronizer as seen in one of the many forums I've read through but I have yet to understand exactly where, on my 05 BF 750, to connect the vacuum tubes. I've read to remove the vacuum lines that run to the fuel tank which operate the fuel pump yet this concept seems useless if the fuel pump won't feed fuel and keep the engine running. Can anyone shed light on the proper location, photos or video would be great, exactly where to hook the vacuum lines and if it is necessary to use an external hose and tank of fuel to feed the carburetors during the test? I'm being s bit cheap since dealer wants 120.00 to perform this service but I also feel if I learn how I can use it again and again as needed.
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Old 12-07-2012, 06:49 AM   #2
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I did it with the homemade tubes hooked to the vacuum ports for the fuel pump. you have to be quick but it can be done. the quad will run at idle for a minute or so with the gas in the bowls. hope this helps.
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Old 12-07-2012, 12:20 PM   #3
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Just gotta use the search box - here ya go - Dumb A***** Award Carb SYNC
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Old 12-07-2012, 02:57 PM   #4
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Quote: Originally Posted by lumbeebrute View Post
I did it with the homemade tubes hooked to the vacuum ports for the fuel pump. you have to be quick but it can be done. the quad will run at idle for a minute or so with the gas in the bowls. hope this helps.
Thanks, that's what I needed to know. I had read that other thread and understood the the concept and noted the tubes needed to be attached to the manifold port but was dumbfounded by where to find it on the BF. The photo on that thread shows the gauge well but didn't get into the real location for connection. Thanks aging for the added information.
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Old 12-07-2012, 04:36 PM   #5
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I would take the left and right side plastics off,to access the carbs,and on the left side of front carb,and right side of rear carb,are the vaccum lines for the fuel pump - that's where you get the vaccum to sync the carbs.Go on you tube and search this topic for carb syncing,and you'll learn.I think in the service manual, it is written on how to sync carbs....
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Old 12-07-2012, 04:44 PM   #6
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I don't know what you have for intake snorkle size vs. carb jetting and adjustments made to the carb,and where the carb is having issues,so it's real hard to give advice on troubleshooting the issues your quad is having.If you have a 2" intake snorkle,I can't help you out cause my quad was impossible to set up carb wise with a 2" intake snorkle - I went to a 3" intake snorkle and was alot easier to set up carbs.
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Old 12-07-2012, 06:17 PM   #7
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Quote: Originally Posted by dman66 View Post
I don't know what you have for intake snorkle size vs. carb jetting and adjustments made to the carb,and where the carb is having issues,so it's real hard to give advice on troubleshooting the issues your quad is having.If you have a 2" intake snorkle,I can't help you out cause my quad was impossible to set up carb wise with a 2" intake snorkle - I went to a 3" intake snorkle and was alot easier to set up carbs.

Yes, thanks for the advice. The bike has always been a cause and effect build. Meaning something breaks make it better. Lol currently I am running dyno jets 136 front and 142 rear I just added new Kline 38 pilot jets. Screw turned to 2 1/2 out needle on the 4th notch with the 2 shim washers the kit shows needed to use. I Cleaned the entire carb best I could while apart. It's running well from a short test drive that I was able to take. I haven't had a chance to do a lean rich run with new spark plugs just yet. My snork is a bit creative. I used 2 inch rubber 90 from stock inlet on front of airbox to 2 inch until past the plastic then opens to 3" stack with a 90 at top. When I first got the bike it wasn't long before I found myself pulling plugs to empty cylinder of water after hitting fairly shallow water at quick speeds. And I did s bad clean out job of the jets when I first bought it since it was sitting with stale gas in if for a unknown period of time. I was new to the carb game and I took very small drill bit to clean out the jets. Oops. Yep it ran but was a bit lean. Then snorkel with 2 inch pipe only made it run horrible.... I knew it needed more air so I added a screw coupling to the rear of the airbox and installed a 1.5 inch pool style hose to it. To date that thing still is held in there and no leaks. Lol now you'll probably wondering how I was able to get that installed back there with the battery. Well I relocated that the rear of the bike in the frame area where that useless tool tube was just below the tail light... This was one of the best mods for sure. It's cinch to get to the rear plug with that out of the way. As far as engine running I have added a Dynatech module snork, slip on hmf and jet kit. I thought I Had it running great using 36 kline pilot jet (this helped a ton from another rough running issues), needle on 5th notch 150 f and 155 rear and 2 1/4 f/a out. After it sat for a month after last ride when I cranked it up I had a ton of back fire, hard start and stumble to die idle. Now it ran great and strong before sitting but was noticeable by plugs still too rich. First thought was have to clean carbs. Three attempts pulling apart and no luck or better running. I pulled caps and checked and reset valve clearance, checked hoses and carb holders for cracks and leaks, re adjusted the air fuel and little changes but still bad backfire. I then started to tinker with the sync of the carbs.. No luck. Came on line and searched searched and more searching. Many of the same things saying it could be one of a hundred things. I found a know post guy that list his complete set up with 2 inch snork and running the same dyno jet kit I have. I decided to give it shot. Took out the pilot and out in new 38s that I had previously bought and pulled the mains stems and jets cleaned the stems with carb cleaner and sit compressor then cleaned the float needle again. Put it all back together with the new never used mains same as he is running then reset the needle and f/a screw and presto fired right up, idles great and backfire is gone. Now with a smile on my face I can say it had to be the pilots must have still been clogged. I ran it down her road and its pretty smooth and all the power is there. My 2 final concerns I wanted to address before I put it all back together was to straighten out the sync I carelessly fiddled with and to run a plug test run to make sure it's not too lean to burn the piston. I hope this gives you a starting point as to my situation. Unrelated items is I'm running outlaw 29.5s and have a kawa ninja radiator rack mounted so she runs cool under most conditions.
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Old 12-07-2012, 06:23 PM   #8
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I went out today and picked up the hose to build the sync tool. Tomorrow with be the test and ill try to get a few pics.
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Old 12-08-2012, 09:13 AM   #9
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Sounds like you have it under control. Pilot jets are really sensitive and if it's sits will plug up. A Dynatec CDI might help if you haven't done that mod yet. The timing advance helps clear up the low end response.
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Old 12-08-2012, 11:23 AM   #10
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Good to hear it's running better.
The plug test is notoriously inaccurate. Should you want to get a plug reading on the main jets, you will need to run it at WOT for a couple of miles, and then shut it down on the fly. Even then, it's hard to get a reading on a 4-stroke engine with modern fuel.
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