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Old 05-18-2003, 11:09 AM   #1
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i rode yesterday in the rain and the weather was around 60-65. i have the snorkle, muffler mod, 145 jet,twin air filter, univents, and clutch kit. i have been tinkering with the jetting for about 3 weeks and havent found it to be affective i thought i had it really good bc i wasnt getting any popping thru the airbox and was running good from top to bottom, i was getting 59-61 mph on top end with 27 589s.as well. while riding yesterday when i would stop in the trail or stop to idle it would shut off. i couldnt keep it running. i adjusted the idle screw on the side and it would run good for about an hour and do the same thing again. i could smell that it seemed like it was running rich so i adjusted the screws in 1/2 turn each and adjusted the idle screw out again and it run good again for about 1 hour. and started it again all day it done it. have i got the mixture wrong on the bike or something adjusted wrong for it to be doing this. it has never done it before.
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2007 kfx 90
120cc powroll bbk
cam'd
two brothers full exhaust
ac racing nerfs
rath racing front and rear bumper
jb racing +2 a arms



previous motors..

fst 765-stage 3 cams-full porting-lte duals
amr 800-ported big valve heads-x3 cams- lte duals..
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Old 05-19-2003, 05:24 AM   #2
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Is it posible that you were getting water into the filter box through the univents ????, as it was raining, or around the tops of the carbs, if you took the filterbox out to install the univents ???? Have A GREAT Day, Go Four Wheel'in !!!!! WAM
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Old 05-19-2003, 04:47 PM   #3
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i run some pretty good mud yesterday but i dont think it was getting water in bc i just checked it today and it was just dirty around the guard inside where the racing snorkle connects. the only thing i could figure out was that maybe it was the rise in elevation. but i only raised about 3-400 feet above my normal riding conditions. it just wouldnt stay idliing. i coverd my univents up tonight and run the bike again, it run good and would sit and idle but i didnt run it for a long time. it was really agravating at the time. if i would even slow down to a stop it wanted to quit.
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FST 730
LTE DUALS
BILLET GAS CAP
BILLET SHIFTER
FLEXX BARS
ROX RISERS
ACEWELL TACH
DYNA CDI
ELKA SUSPENSION
INTERCOOLER SYSTEM


2007 kfx 90
120cc powroll bbk
cam'd
two brothers full exhaust
ac racing nerfs
rath racing front and rear bumper
jb racing +2 a arms



previous motors..

fst 765-stage 3 cams-full porting-lte duals
amr 800-ported big valve heads-x3 cams- lte duals..
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Old 05-23-2003, 07:25 AM   #4
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VT,
jetting can be like stirring soup with your elbow, it can be done but not too effective..

what I mean by that is:
elevation, temperature, and humidity all play a role in it. when I did mine, I did a valve adjust, then changed jets, then carb synch, so that would be something to take out of the equation. with stock exhaust, at 300' elevation, avg temp 80-90 degrees, stock exhaust, twin air filter, & diamond g snorkle, I ended up with 142/145 jets, added 3/4 turn to mix screws. it works fine.. rule of thumb, for each 2000' CHANGE in ELEVATION, it is roughly a jet size, for each 30 Degrees CHANGE in temperature it is also a jet size,

jet sizes are not that critical as long as you get it close.. if you pulled the carbs off to jet it, I'd check the carb synch, starting and idling problems could also be related to valve adjust (if it has not been done, or has gotten progressively worse)
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Old 05-23-2003, 12:21 PM   #5
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i didnt pull the carbs off to jet i put the 145 in and put the shims in the other side. it was still attached so i assumed the carbs were still synchronized. the jetting is my prob. where i have been riding the elevation hasnt been far off from where i live maybe 200-300 ft. difference. the temperature hasnt fluctuated more than 20 degrees anytime ive rode. after i ride for about 30 minutes i can smell it rich, but the bike seems to still have good response on take off but not what it should be. im at 1000 ft elevation roughly so i started out with nyrocs settings but wasnt getting the performance i was looking for so i went alittle further, im still not happy with the way the bike is running. im running it this weekend to see if it does it again and then its back to the shop again.
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FST 730
LTE DUALS
BILLET GAS CAP
BILLET SHIFTER
FLEXX BARS
ROX RISERS
ACEWELL TACH
DYNA CDI
ELKA SUSPENSION
INTERCOOLER SYSTEM


2007 kfx 90
120cc powroll bbk
cam'd
two brothers full exhaust
ac racing nerfs
rath racing front and rear bumper
jb racing +2 a arms



previous motors..

fst 765-stage 3 cams-full porting-lte duals
amr 800-ported big valve heads-x3 cams- lte duals..
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Old 05-23-2003, 12:36 PM   #6
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VT,
<<i didnt pull the carbs off to jet i put the 145 in and put the shims in the other side. it was still attached so i assumed the carbs were still synchronized. the jetting is my prob.>>

when I did mine at 300 mile or so, I checked the synch after changing the jets, it was good, but I STILL checked it, granted it should'nt be off that much if you did'nt split the carb stack or disturb the linkage..

as far as the shims go, I don't run any, but mine is stock exhaust, shims control the off idle response in the transition area between the pilot jet and the mains.. if it is sluggish at low rpms take the shims out & see if it gets better..

<< where i have been riding the elevation hasnt been far off from where i live maybe 200-300 ft. difference. the temperature hasnt fluctuated more than 20 degrees anytime ive rode. after i ride for about 30 minutes i can smell it rich, but the bike seems to still have good response on take off but not what it should be. im at 1000 ft elevation roughly so i started out with nyrocs settings but wasnt getting the performance i was looking for so i went alittle further, im still not happy with the way the bike is running. im running it this weekend to see if it does it again and then its back to the shop again.>>

2-300 ft diffrence is not anything to worry about, 20 degrees is still within a jet size, not enough to compensate for, if it is bogging down low, and cleaning up at higher rpms that indicates it is rich on the bottom, take the shims out of the needle,

lean condition will run strong, then act like it is running out of steam, rich condition it has sluggish acceleration until the rpms increase, if it runs better at 3/4 throttle than full throttle, it is rich on the mains.. 142/145 is right for me, at 200' elevation, no shims on needle, stock exhaust..

try that & see where it takes you..on my street bike I had to change jets 10 time before I got it right, (it had 4 carbs & I had to split the stack to change jets..about 1 1/2 hr to change settings)
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Old 05-25-2003, 04:42 PM   #7
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my bike has alot of snap on takeoff and seems to peeder out on top end which i believe is normal. i swapped tires with a buddy today and tried mine, i couldnt believe the difference. in high range i could stomp the gas and stand straight up, on top end i could only get 63-63 with the stockers on with all my mods. im running 59-61 with my itps on. i think that something is wrong there. anyway when we drag raced them i would walk off from him with the stock tires on and him stock with just my 27 itps on his. he was catching up to me with me running stockers and my mods. that makes me think im not running right.
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FST 730
LTE DUALS
BILLET GAS CAP
BILLET SHIFTER
FLEXX BARS
ROX RISERS
ACEWELL TACH
DYNA CDI
ELKA SUSPENSION
INTERCOOLER SYSTEM


2007 kfx 90
120cc powroll bbk
cam'd
two brothers full exhaust
ac racing nerfs
rath racing front and rear bumper
jb racing +2 a arms



previous motors..

fst 765-stage 3 cams-full porting-lte duals
amr 800-ported big valve heads-x3 cams- lte duals..
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