Adjustment 2002 650 - Kawasaki ATV Forum
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post #1 of 9 Old 01-10-2004, 07:48 AM Thread Starter
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Does anyone have the valve adjustment procedure and clearance settings for a 2002 650. I have got mine stripped down to the valve covers and now I can't find the Info. any where. Thanks
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post #2 of 9 Old 01-10-2004, 08:36 AM
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Valve clearance - Exhaust - (0.0079-0.0098)
Intake - (0.0039-0.0059)

OK, here goes. Pull off your pull starter housing. Remove the small black timing cover plug right by the pull starter housing. This is where you will find your timing marks. Put a ratchet on the center nut on the end of the crank exposed when you took your pull starter housing off. Turn it counterclockwise until the timing mark TF appears. Line up the mark on the top leg of the T. IMPORTANT! Wiggle the front cylinder rocker arms to see if they are a little loose. If they aren't, turn the crank 1 full turn, line up your timing marks again, and check to see if your rockers are loose. If they are, set your front cylinder valves, both exhaust and intake. After you have the fronts set, turn the crank counterclockwise 2 turns and line up the TR timing mark. Check to see that your rear cylinder rockers are loose and then set your valves. Put your valve covers back on. NOTE Before you put everything back together, fire it up to see if it is running right!!! If it is, put everything back together and rip it up!!

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post #3 of 9 Old 01-10-2004, 08:44 AM
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I have the specs. Send me a personal message with your e-mail address and I will send them to you.

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post #4 of 9 Old 01-10-2004, 09:05 AM
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This is what I saved from NYROC's site

Prairie 650 - Valve adjustment

Difficulty rating 7.5 out of 10 (the feeler gage was a bit hard to get in the tight spots).

-You need a feeler gage, flathead screwdriver, and a box end metric wrench (10mm). Check when engine is at room temperature.

-Remove front plastic (includes top rack), middle plastic (includes battery), front inner covers, valve adjust caps, recoil starter. You might be able to do it without removing the front fender if you take a tire off.

-Remove timing inpection plug. It may be too tight, try a vise grip on the outside edge of it.

-Turn crank using a wrench on the alternator rotor bolt counterclockwise until the TF mark shows up (the top part of the T lines up with a notch in the hole). Note that if the cylinder is at the end of the compression stroke all four valves will be closed (you can feel clearance in the rocker). If the engine is at the end of the exhaust stroke, some of the valves will be partway open (the exhaust I think), and you need to turn it counterclockwise one full revolution until it is at the end of the compression stroke (back to same mark).

-Check and if needed adjust all four valves on front cylinder to:

Intake 0.10-0.15mm (.0039"-.0059") cold

Exhaust 0.20-0.25mm (.0079"-.0098") cold

-To adjust a valve, loosen locknut, turn center screw left for looser, right for tigher. Proper clearance is achieved when feeler gage can slide between valve and adjusting screw with slight resistance (not loose, not tight).

-Turn the crank until the TR lines up in the timing hole and check/adjust the valves in rear cylinder (make sure all valves are closed, or you need to turn it around again. It is 270 degrees CCW from TF). Free 1-877-764-8313.Great Prices And Even Better Service!
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post #5 of 9 Old 01-11-2004, 06:03 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys for the Quick Response, I appreciate all the help. I didn't get it done Yesterday, but maybe today. I had posted this on two other boards earlier and still on response, this board is the best.
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post #6 of 9 Old 01-11-2004, 10:40 AM
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for what it's worth...
when I did mine, I left the pull start on, and then pulled the timing plug, I lined up the timing marks by pulling on the starter rope.
it helps to have some cheap feeler guages that you can bend.
for me, it worked out better to loosen up the adjustment, so I could be sure I got the feeler guage under the top of the valve stem, then tighten the adjustment to specs.. otherwise it is very easy to think that you have the feeler gauge in the right spot, (I thought I had it the first time, & had to dissamble it to get it right, as the valves were rattling..) but it really is in the top of the spring retainer..

as far as removing all the plastic off the front, lights, ignition switch, etc.. that's unnecessary, to get to the rear the center section of plastic needs removed, to get to the front, it can be done by removing the inner plastic on the left side of the wheel wells... this will save a lot of time..

hope this helps..
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post #7 of 9 Old 01-12-2004, 10:54 AM
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I did what the surveyor did, and it worked good, especially the bend in the feeler gauge. jh......

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post #8 of 9 Old 12-25-2010, 07:46 AM
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hello i would really appreciate it if you could send me those pictures. i need to see the timing marks i am working on it right now.....first one ever done. my e-mail address is THANK YOU !!!!!
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post #9 of 9 Old 12-25-2010, 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by jimmy66 View Post
hello i would really appreciate it if you could send me those pictures. i need to see the timing marks i am working on it right now.....first one ever done. my e-mail address is THANK YOU !!!!!
This thread is 7 years old.
There are tons of threads regarding valve adjustments.

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