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Old 01-17-2004, 10:47 PM   #1
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anything to help its my first time
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Old 01-17-2004, 11:15 PM   #2
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Engine oil; 1.85 quarts only with a new oil filter.
Drain the front end while the P650 is on level ground.
To refill the front end is a pain because of where the filler is located. Use engine oil too for the front - dif. I remove the right front wheel, used a floor jack placed under the right foot rest & jack up the 650 so it leaned way over to the left side, this makes it easier to fill the front end. Just be slow about pouring in the new oil, recap the filler inlet & you are done with the front Dif.
The rear end is easy, just be sure to use the Mobil Fuild 424. Be extra careful not to over tighten the filler cap.
You shouldn't switch over to the 100% Synthetic oils till at least 500 miles or on your third oil change. You can use the 100% Synthetic in both the engine & the front dif but I would stay with the 10w40 for the front end.
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Old 01-18-2004, 07:44 AM   #3
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You should stay away from synthetic oil in the front diff as the clutch plates in there work better with just plain old oil. You'll notice your diff lock lever will engage more positively if you use a regular 10W30 than if you use a full synthetic. I use Quaker state 10W30 and I have never had any trouble with my front end.
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Old 01-18-2004, 07:57 AM   #4
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It's always interesting to hear someone advocate the use of dino oil over synthetic. Is there any particular reason? I've been an engine builder since before there was such a thing as synthetics and I can't see defending dino oils for any reason. The first oil change on my prairie came at about 70 miles and I used Mobil 1 Vtwin then and every time sence with no problems what so ever. I've over 3,000 miles now and haven't even had to adjust a valve yet. Yes they have checked a few times but needed no adjustment. The conclusion here is there has been no disearnable wear causing the need for adjustment. A good sign! My advice to anyone is to go to a synthetic on your first change and stick with it.

On changing the front diff oil, I too jack up the right side of the bike after draining and replacing the drain plug but don't pull any wheels. Put slightly more than the proper amount of oil as called for in your manual in a squeeze bottle. (plastic ketsup bottle) Insert the nipple in the fill hole and empty the bottle. Lower the bike down on its wheels where it is level again and allow the excess to run back out. Replace the plug and go. By the way, I use the same oil in the front diff as I use in the engine. Works great.

A spray can of silicone lube somes in handy for washing crud out of the steering stem bushing and keeping it free also. Just point the straw down the stem at the bushing and spray. If you ride a lot of mud and water don't wait for oil change time to do this. Just do it every time you think of it or if steering begins to get rough.
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Old 01-18-2004, 08:16 AM   #5
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Old Syko, I use synthetic in the engine, but I don't in the front diff. With the clutch plates in there, I found regular dyno works better. I put synthetic in the front diff once and it was like I had the diff lock lever engaged all the time. I drained it and put in regular dyno oil and it worked fine. I've heard a few other 650/700 owners who have had the same experience, so that is the reason I use regular dyno in the front diff.
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Old 01-18-2004, 08:32 AM   #6
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The only thing I've seen change steering effort or lock up due to the oil used in the front diff was a difference in viscosity. The heavier weights increased effort and the lighter ones decreased it. Outside temps also have some effect. But I've truely seen no difference between dino and synthetic other than the synthetic seems to carry less bronze from the clutch plate when you change fluids.
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Old 01-18-2004, 10:53 AM   #7
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The reason I took off the front tire is it is easier to get to the filler cap & doesn't take any big additional time to put the wheel back on.
I have been using Mobil 1 10w40 M/C oil in the front end of the Prairie with no problems at all & will continue to do so. I feel no difference in the steering in limit-slip or dif-loc.
I know allot of you switch over to the 100% Synthetics from day 1 but I have always waited for more additional break-in miles.
If you really want to give your engine even better protection along with the 100% Synthetic oils, then change over to a Scotts performance oil filter. This filter does not allow unfilter oil to flow on cold engine starts, catches particles down to 35 microns, where a good paper filter is only good in the 90 to 95 micron range.
What is a micron? Example- A white blood cell is 25 microns.
This filter also has a magnet, which allows you to monitor your engine condition during oil changes. This filter is completely reusable & can be cleaned even with dish soap & also you can blow air through the filter to remove any small particles.
It is made out of 304 stainless steel micronic filter cloth & is not cheap at $100 for the Prairie 650/700 VForce VTwins.
I have been using this Filter in both of my Prairie 650s I had & now in the Cat 650.
www.scottsperformance.com

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Old 01-18-2004, 01:57 PM   #8
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the oil i have is mobil 1 vtwin 20w-50 should i take it back for the 10-40 the filter is a fram ph6017a. thanks all for the help
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Old 01-18-2004, 04:12 PM   #9
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Bigbulls, I was told by an engine guru guy that the V-twin oil is a waste of money for our V-twins. Don't get me wrong. It is very good oil, but our twins don't have a wet clutch system, and that is what the V-twin oil is made for. Basically, you are spending money for something that is giving you no benefit. I was running Amsoil 20W50 V-twin oil in my 650 and was told I was wasting my money ($11 a litre). I was told by a good friend of mine that has been building bike motors for years that a good 10W30 full synthetic is all I would need. The last 2 oil changes I have been putting in Quaker State 10W30 full synthetic. Works good (as far as I know!!). The V-twin oil will work great, but if cost is an issue, go with a regular synthetic and save a few bucks.

BFB, that oil filter sounds sweet. I have been using a Fram filter as there isn't a Kawie dealer in my neck of the woods to get a stock one from.
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Old 01-18-2004, 04:53 PM   #10
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I've been getting my Mobil 1 10w40 at Auto Zone for $8 a quart & being that the VTwin engine doesn't reqiure allot of oil, I can live with the price of this Mobil 1. With the Mobil 1 I now just change my oil twice a year, once before winter then once before the summer months.
I am surprized that some of you use the 10w30 SAE oils as this oil viscosity doesn't meet the outside temperture ranges as well as the 10w40 or the 20w50 oils.
Years ago I read a test comparision on motorcycle oil filters & the Fram came in last. I even quit using the Fram in my Powerstroke.
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