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Old 11-13-2006, 05:06 AM   #1
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The last couple times I attempt to start my 06 BF750 the battery is too drained to start it. After charging, the wheeler starts and puts out 13-14 volts at idle and higher RPM. I placed an amp meter between the battery and cable and it registers about 12 amps with the key off. There are no aftermarket items attached. Any idea on what items to start disconnecting to track this down? Does all power go through the main soenoid or does the controller pull power even if the solenoid is working properly?


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Old 11-13-2006, 06:37 PM   #2
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best thing to do is check your. volt/reg. if it has a short to ground that would be it. it would back feed. and at idle thats high. it should be about 12vs and peak out at 14v at 4k rpm. if your peaking out at idle then i would say check your volt/reg.

I'll look in my factory manual for the testing on the volt/reg. also ill thing of some other problems that it might be. i'll pm you soon as i can.
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Old 11-13-2006, 06:59 PM   #3
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Quote:
The last couple times I attempt to start my 06 BF750 the battery is too drained to start it. After charging, the wheeler starts and puts out 13-14 volts at idle and higher RPM. I placed an amp meter between the battery and cable and it registers about 12 amps with the key off. There are no aftermarket items attached. Any idea on what items to start disconnecting to track this down? Does all power go through the main soenoid or does the controller pull power even if the solenoid is working properly?
[/b]

May have a bad battery, I did and I just replaced it. Warrenty doesnt cover it unless you are still under the 6 month factory one.
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Old 11-14-2006, 05:33 AM   #4
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Is the weather colder and are you not using it a lot? If it's not being used a lot in colder weather, I leave mine plugged to a battery tender. This is the worst time of year for batteries.

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Quote:
The last couple times I attempt to start my 06 BF750 the battery is too drained to start it. After charging, the wheeler starts and puts out 13-14 volts at idle and higher RPM. I placed an amp meter between the battery and cable and it registers about 12 amps with the key off. There are no aftermarket items attached. Any idea on what items to start disconnecting to track this down? Does all power go through the main soenoid or does the controller pull power even if the solenoid is working properly?
[/b]
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Old 11-14-2006, 05:35 AM   #5
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Thanks guys.

Speedy, that makes sense. I thought the voltage was pretty high for idle. If you have the test procedure for the regulator, that would be great. What is the best source for a replacement if I need one? Any alternates to buying from the stealer?

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Old 11-15-2006, 04:59 AM   #6
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It is not the voltage regulator. I unplugged it and everything under the seat, one component at a time. It is now registering a 4-5 amp draw. The only thing that changes it is pulling the 30 amp fuse or disconnecting the two wire plug that branches off the positive battery cable just prior to the solenoid connection. Both wires are white with a red stripe.
Does anyone have a schematic that show what components are all fed from this connection?
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Old 11-15-2006, 05:45 AM   #7
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Quote:
It is not the voltage regulator. I unplugged it and everything under the seat, one component at a time. It is now registering a 4-5 amp draw. The only thing that changes it is pulling the 30 amp fuse or disconnecting the two wire plug that branches off the positive battery cable just prior to the solenoid connection. Both wires are white with a red stripe.
Does anyone have a schematic that show what components are all fed from this connection?
[/b]
Check the usual corroded splice in the rear harness, back by the fuel tank filler neck. The last BF750 I saw do this, one regulator wire was corroded in that white plastic splice, taped to the side of the rear (main) harness. The BF750's do ALL kinds of weird things, when the spliced wires corrode. They can start with key "off", inop cooling fan, no start in 4WD mode, the list goes on. You'll need to remove the rear fender(plastic), to access the area, and get to the splice to repair it. It will become obvious why they corrode, when you see where this splice is located---on top of the fuel tank, where the splice sits in the mud thrown on to the top of the tank!
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Old 11-15-2006, 10:37 AM   #8
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I thought the 06 models did not have that problem any more.
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Old 11-15-2006, 11:03 AM   #9
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Quote:
I thought the 06 models did not have that problem any more.
[/b]
I don't know if Kaw. actually listened to their dealer techs, or not. Maybe they were upgraded, dunno.
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Old 11-15-2006, 02:27 PM   #10
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My 06" STILL has the rear buss connecter!
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