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This is a discussion on working on a new lift for my P700 within the Kawasaki Brute Force/Prairie/Bayou forums, part of the Kawasaki ATV Performance / Maintenance / Technical category; I got to thinking again, ok i seen HighLIfter makes these a-arms for the polaris atvs that moves the knuckles forward about 1.75" I have ...
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#1 |
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Premium Member
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I got to thinking again, ok i seen HighLIfter makes these a-arms for the polaris atvs that moves the knuckles forward about 1.75"
I have tried this once before but had poor luck with getting it finished. so this time I'm going to finish it. my setup is to move the ball joint tab forward 1" this will move the tires forward about 1" but will put the axle at a diffrent angle by not only coming out the diff and going downward to the knuckle but now angles alittle forward. I think it wont cause any more wear on my joints. BUT im not sure how it will effect the handing. as the struts will be at an angle as well it could increase handling. but make stearing stiffer. not sure untill i finish and try. I would like to hear others input and ideas. My goals are to fit 30" or maybe 32" tires with little to no rubbing on the floor boards. I havent trimmed my floor boards back yet but will be doing so very soon. thinkincg with these a-arms and the trimmed boards should give me 2.5" of added clearance. im sure i wont rub to much on the frame or the inner fenders. remember my machine is a P700. and IM also reworking my mega lift for it. as my other lift i did last yr didnt work out. im thinking of using the 2IN lift i got now and adding another 1" to it for 3" of lift. for the rear Ill go back to my 4" over swinger and angle it to lift 3" with out binding the U-joint. I have some were in my notes, the angle of the swinger with the 2" lift and the angle at witch the u-joint binds. i figure Ill just make the swinger as long as i need to get the lift im looking for. not only make the wheel base longer but increase my frame ground clearance and room to fit the larger tires. Now all i need is to get to the fab welder and get it completed.
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2004 RED P700 Trail monster 2" lift kit 1.5" wheel spacers. 28"mudlight XL's 10x12 frts 12x12 rears Amsoil 0w-40 engine oil / Frnt Diff Amsoil 5w-30 rear diff (hydraulic/transmission oil) Water Wetter mixed 25% coolant 75% water Twin air ProFlow filter, Dyno Jet needles Muzzy Full System, Denso Iridium plugs #IU22. "Freebie" Moose Module & 6deg key installed EPI Primary and secondary springs. VFJ stage 3 spider mod, machined secondary. Full set EPI black springs with custom front preload spacers. SOON VFJ crossover INTAKES AND VFJ dyno tuning |
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#2 |
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Senior Member
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In moving the lower balljoint forward you will increase the caster which will make turning harder. This increase will make high speed better but slow speed tight turns harder.You also need to check the clearance between the steering linkage and the axle on the inside cv joint area because this will become closer.
You can cure the caster problem by cutting off the upper strut mount and welding it back on one inch forward as well. I would remove the floor boards and cut off a little off of each end and the put them back on.Then i would bolt the plastic back to them and use a heat gun to reshape them to meet the boards.That way it would give it a stock stealthy look.
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o2 prairie 650 supertrapp idsx,dynojet jet kit,Diamond G module & air box snorkle,HL clutch kit,Moose front and rear bumpers(rear mounted upside down, front mounting tabs welded onto frame lower than headlights), 2 inch lift with 28 inch itp 589's,front 2500 lb. winch and rear 2000 lb. winch,60 inch cycle country plow with electric lift and angle. 1964 Chevy Malibu conv. 355 cu.in. 4 sp. two stages of nitrous 850 hp at crank 10.20@142mph. 1970 Chevy Nova 396 auto tubbed and caged. 2000 Ford F350 4x4 7.3 diesel 538 hp 925 lb. torque at crank 1994 HD Dyna wideglide 96 in. S&S custom wheels and paint 1972HD FLH 1200 port and polished heads,sifton cam, aries piston,lightened flywheels,5 sp. in a 4 sp. case trans 1994 prostreet HD sportster 1200 105 hp. 180 rear tire ,midglide front end ,custom wheels,removeable wheelie bar. Special construction 96 cu in rigid, 10 in over springer,250 rear tire,5 sp w/kick and electric start,3 in. open primary,foot clutch hand shift. 08 Skidoo 800 Renagade XP 02 Skidoo 800 Summit He who dies with the most toys dies with an empty wallet(and usually single) |
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#3 |
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Premium Member
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thanks for the info greasemonkey. yeah i thought about that in moving the upper strut mounting point forward also. IM going to try a diffrent type of knuckle. ones from the worst build atvs ever. thats right. polaris SP700 knuckles as they have more clearance for the cvjoints. I noticed this when i seen an SP700 with a 6inch lift kit and stock knuckles the axles cleared very nice. the problem with the kawie is that they kinda made the knuckles to shield the outer joints. I figured since this is going to be custom why not share parts form other machines to make it work.. only took me two yrs to notice the problem with the axles not being able to clear the kawie knuckles even with alot of grinding and cutting at them. will see once i get these units from ebay.
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2004 RED P700 Trail monster 2" lift kit 1.5" wheel spacers. 28"mudlight XL's 10x12 frts 12x12 rears Amsoil 0w-40 engine oil / Frnt Diff Amsoil 5w-30 rear diff (hydraulic/transmission oil) Water Wetter mixed 25% coolant 75% water Twin air ProFlow filter, Dyno Jet needles Muzzy Full System, Denso Iridium plugs #IU22. "Freebie" Moose Module & 6deg key installed EPI Primary and secondary springs. VFJ stage 3 spider mod, machined secondary. Full set EPI black springs with custom front preload spacers. SOON VFJ crossover INTAKES AND VFJ dyno tuning |
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