Best belt for brute - Kawasaki ATV Forum
Kawasaki Brute Force/Prairie/Bayou Kawasaki's strong and reliable utility ATVs

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post #1 of 21 Old 03-09-2010, 05:40 AM Thread Starter
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Best belt for brute

Looking for the best belt for the money. Going on a modded brute force with vfj clutch mod.

2005 Brute Force 750i, Dynatek cdi, dual snorkeled air box and clutch, 26 inch Mudlite XLs, Maroon primary, Dynojet kit .40 primary, 185 mains, Full Muzzy pro series stainless exhaust, Amsoil throughout, K&n filter with outerwears, Tammarack trunk, Temp gauge mod, spark plug mod. Vforce John clutch mod stage 3- 52 hp dynoed at the rear wheels from Interstate Motorsports, P.A.
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post #2 of 21 Old 03-09-2010, 08:17 AM
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Two good choices and only two, kawie belt and EPI severe duty. We sell the severe duty for $118.95 shipped
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post #3 of 21 Old 03-09-2010, 12:42 PM
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Factory is better and cheaper around 68.50 in most dealers.









2007 Cadilliac Escalade ESV 403 hp 6 speed trans
2003 Dodge Hemi Ram 4x4 Quad cab
1996 Dodge Cummins turbo Diesel 280HP 680TQ
2004 Prairie 700
2001 Polaris 500 HO
2009 Honda RancherES 420 4x4
2003 Honda 250EX
2001 Kawaski KX125
2001 Kawasko KX100
2002 KAwasaki KLX125
2004 Carter Talon 150cc GO Cart
2006 50cc R1 Super mini bike
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post #4 of 21 Old 03-09-2010, 01:23 PM
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Dayco XTX Drive Belt - XTX2217

I just bought the Dayco XTX Drive Belt - XTX2217 . It cost around $120 but its way better than the factory belt





o
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post #5 of 21 Old 03-09-2010, 01:34 PM
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Dayco XTX belt

I have a 2008 Brute force 750. After I smoked the factory belt I got this one and it works great.

http://www.daycoproducts.com/daycowe...8!OpenDocument
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post #6 of 21 Old 03-09-2010, 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by BIGBRUTE007 View Post
I just bought the Dayco XTX Drive Belt - XTX2217 . It cost around $120 but its way better than the factory belt





o
Time will tell...................

2002 698 Prairie
VFJ 11.5:1 coated pistons
FST Stage II Cams
Fundy Performance Porting, 1mm milled off heads
Kibblewhite valves
Crossover intakes
Modded airbox
Full Muzzy
Custom machined stock weights
VFJ Springs
DynaTek CDI
Other weird stuff

2011 Stratos 186XT Bass Boat
Mercury Optimax 115hp
Minn Kota 70lb 24v trolling motor
Lowrance HDS 10 Electronics
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post #7 of 21 Old 03-09-2010, 03:29 PM
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go with the factory belt. the others dont last as long.

2008 Brute Force SRA
VFJ Stage 3 clutch, EPI pink primary and VFJ #4 secondary springs, Dynatek, spark plug boot mod, Crossover intakes, polished slides, shimmed needles, #42 pilots, #140 mains, TRP water pump, Faria temp gauge, Napa hose mod, Twin Air power flow kit, Elka front spring kit, Elka Stage 3 rear, Fasst Flex handlebars, Rox risers and dash, ODI grips, Streamline steering stabilizer, PRM grab bar, aluminum skids, Renegade footpegs, Black Rock wheels, Kenda Bear Claw HTR's
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post #8 of 21 Old 03-09-2010, 04:26 PM
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We use the EPI severe duty in our builds and have sold hundreds of them, they are very good belts. Same belt I use on my race rhino for cross country racing.
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post #9 of 21 Old 03-09-2010, 04:31 PM
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I've tried them all, stick with OEM

FST 765 w/ stage 2 cams, AMR trail porting, F4 36mm carbs, ProCircuit full pipe, dyna CDI, GTYR filter set up, stage 3 clutch w/ spider mod, flexx bars, shindy tach,
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post #10 of 21 Old 03-09-2010, 04:34 PM Thread Starter
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How will I know if I need a anew belt. Mine isnt broken but has 750 miles on it, no signs of cracks either. Should I replace it as a precaution or just roll with it ?

2005 Brute Force 750i, Dynatek cdi, dual snorkeled air box and clutch, 26 inch Mudlite XLs, Maroon primary, Dynojet kit .40 primary, 185 mains, Full Muzzy pro series stainless exhaust, Amsoil throughout, K&n filter with outerwears, Tammarack trunk, Temp gauge mod, spark plug mod. Vforce John clutch mod stage 3- 52 hp dynoed at the rear wheels from Interstate Motorsports, P.A.
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