ATV Oil vs AUTO Oil - Kawasaki ATV Forum
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post #1 of 12 Old 03-27-2008, 10:58 PM Thread Starter
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I am curious - lets say your using the Castrol (non-synthetic) 10/40w --- could you then drain it out of the ATV (I have a KFX450r) and use 10/40w automotive oil?
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post #2 of 12 Old 03-28-2008, 03:47 AM
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You could if your transmission is seperated from the engine oil like the honda 450's. Automotive oil will not work with the wet clutch. Atv oil is designed for this and to be used in transmission gears.

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post #3 of 12 Old 03-28-2008, 07:50 AM
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This is one of those questions that will get you every possible answer. So let me be the first to get fired at. I am over 40 so I do have time as a honest backup. I run nothing but Valvoline 10/40. Same oil in all my machines, quads, trucks, tractors and bikes. I have never had a problem with any of my racing motors having clutch problems. But I change the oil after every few rides or race. It is cheap enough and I can see what is comming out of the motors a lot more often. I have been using it since my dad got me my first Indian dirt bike. I am not saying that synthitic(sp) or other oils are not better. I am just saying that auto type oils will work fine. But there are different types of auto oils. This is where the trouble is.

I take back the comment about running nothineg but Valvoline 10/40. Over the years, I have used Kawasaki, Klotz, Golden Spectro and Arctic oils. That might have something to do with the Quadzilla, T-4, LT, KX, RM, and a slew of other 2 strokers using premix.

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post #4 of 12 Old 03-28-2008, 09:32 AM
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I run Royal Purple and Amsoil now. they are both Auto oil and have used auto oil in the atv's for many years with wet clutches.

I think some atv dealers install Fear into the customer as they tell them that you HAVE to run the ATV oil they sell there.

to each their own.

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post #5 of 12 Old 03-28-2008, 09:35 AM
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Quote:
This is one of those questions that will get you every possible answer. So let me be the first to get fired at. I am over 40 so I do have time as a honest backup. I run nothing but Valvoline 10/40. Same oil in all my machines, quads, trucks, tractors and bikes. I have never had a problem with any of my racing motors having clutch problems. But I change the oil after every few rides or race. It is cheap enough and I can see what is comming out of the motors a lot more often. I have been using it since my dad got me my first Indian dirt bike. I am not saying that synthitic(sp) or other oils are not better. I am just saying that auto type oils will work fine. But there are different types of auto oils. This is where the trouble is.

I take back the comment about running nothineg but Valvoline 10/40. Over the years, I have used Kawasaki, Klotz, Golden Spectro and Arctic oils. That might have something to do with the Quadzilla, T-4, LT, KX, RM, and a slew of other 2 strokers using premix.
[/b]

Agreed I have until last year ran nothing but castrol 20w-50 in everything from the trucks to the ATV and even my old Harley ...never had any problems .... Last year do to Sponsorships I change to Amsoil 20w-50 v-twin oil in my prairie .... !

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post #6 of 12 Old 03-28-2008, 01:11 PM
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You can run a auto oil in your quad if you change it often. Quad oil and motorcycle oil have more detergents in them. So as they go through your motor and tranny they take the abuse and don't get as dirty as fast,they also don't break down as fast. I took a class on oil when I worked at my last job( a bike shop) and I believe there are 7 ingreidents in a motorcycle oil and 4 in a auto oil.Change it often and you should be fine.Heck, I had a friend who put 10/30 in a 2 stroke as the mixer just so he could make it home one day.

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post #7 of 12 Old 04-02-2008, 04:23 PM
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I use auto oil 100% synthetic, in the kfx 400.

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post #8 of 12 Old 04-08-2008, 08:47 PM
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Well IMO there are two major things to consider. 1) Wet Clutch 2) Transmission. First the Wet Clutch would arguably be fine with a 10w-40 auto oil as long as it doesn't say "energy conserving" and doesn't contain friction modifiers. How would you know if it is "energy conserving" ? It would say on the bottle and I am pretty sure there are no 10w-40 that are. How would you know if it contained friciton modifiers ? Good luck, but the two go hand in hand and it probably doesn't. Second, the transmission will cause oil to "shear" from the gears and most auto oils are not equiped with shear stabalizers like motorcycle oils are. I have read so-called independent test that suggest auto oils shear and loose viscosity ( 40w would test out to a 20w ) in street bikes in as little as 1,000 miles. Where motorcycle oils would test ( 40w would test out to 30w ) in over 3,000 miles. The bottom line to me is this: Is a $5,000-$8,000 investment worth playing the "oil game" over ? To me anything that doesn't have a seperate transmission is going to get motorcycle oil just for the "shear" factor. Anything else like the Kawasaki automatic machines could get either oil.

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post #9 of 12 Old 04-17-2008, 09:32 AM
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Quote:


I think some atv dealers install Fear into the customer as they tell them that you HAVE to run the ATV oil they sell there.

to each their own.

John
[/b]

agree with this 100%

have a FZR 1000, and use normal car oil, and no prob so far!!

a friend had a GSXR1100 WP, ran normal car oil for many years and no prob!!

on the older bikes the fully synthetic oil was a prob on the clutches, believe the newer bikes are fine with fully synthetic oil!!

believe the KFX450 should be fine with car oils!!

have heard of some cars running engine oil in their gearboxes!!!

look at it this way, if it was so bad, surely by now we would of heard of major mechanical break downs or motors grenading due to incorrect oils!!!


just my 5c!! hope this helps
good luck!!

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post #10 of 12 Old 04-17-2008, 03:02 PM
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Car oil will run great in both the engine and tranny. The only issue is with wet clutch disengagement. Your clutch will feel fine and not slip, but without wet clutch additive sometimes they will not disengage cleanly.

For example have you ever experienced the following:

A bike that is very hard to find neutral on, but if you shut it off, it will go right in?

One that if you start it in gear while holding the clutch in it wants to pull forward a little anyway at startup?

In both cases it is because the clutch pack is not separating cleanly. The wet clutch additive prevents these issues. If you can live with these minor problems car oil is just fine.

For some it's beer. Others cigarettes. Still others drugs. For me it's quads, but admitting you have a problem is the first step...
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