Electric Fuel Pump Mod for IRS Brutes - Page 2 - Kawasaki ATV Forum
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post #11 of 22 Old 03-27-2012, 09:06 AM Thread Starter
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John, what do you think about connecting the pump to the kill switch wire? The y/r wire is very small where it connects to the CDI.

2012 Kawasaki Brute Force 750i non eps
Stock except for O/D Face Plate

2007 Kawasaki Brute Force 750i
Dynatek CDI, Standard Muzzy, VFJ Clutch, EHS Lid, 42s Fuel Pump Conversion

2006 Kawasaki Brute Force 650i
Dynatek CDI, Dalton Springs, O/D Face Plate
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post #12 of 22 Old 04-30-2012, 11:22 AM
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what is everyone using for an adjustable fuel pressure regualtor? . . .

my pump is blowing past the seats

What PSI should I get 3-4 psi?

06 Brute Force 650i
4" Catvos | Gorilla axles | 29.5 outlaws | Highlifter radiator relocate
Dynatech CDI | Snorkeled | HMF slip-on | Front POS winch
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post #13 of 22 Old 04-30-2012, 11:41 AM
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I have a MR Gasket Regulator on mine

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post #14 of 22 Old 04-30-2012, 11:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brute 840 View Post
I have a MR Gasket Regulator on mine
this one ? Mr. Gasket 2015

Mr. Gasket 2015 - Mr. Gasket Fuel Pressure Regulators - Overview - SummitRacing.com

Is there a return line on the bottom, or is that for a gauage hook up?

06 Brute Force 650i
4" Catvos | Gorilla axles | 29.5 outlaws | Highlifter radiator relocate
Dynatech CDI | Snorkeled | HMF slip-on | Front POS winch
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post #15 of 22 Old 05-01-2012, 11:25 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TooTall View Post
what is everyone using for an adjustable fuel pressure regualtor? . . .

my pump is blowing past the seats

What PSI should I get 3-4 psi?
I have had this happen a couple of times on my Brute. I have found that the pumps seem to vary a little in pressure. I have a cheap little vaccuum/pressure guage that I simply plug onto the outlet of the pump now before installing. The pump I was having problems with shows 8psi. The other three pumps I have bought show anywhere from 3-4psi. I have not seen a problem with any of the pumps showing the lower pressure. I believe that the 12s pump occasionally gets packaged as a 42s, but this is just a guess.

2012 Kawasaki Brute Force 750i non eps
Stock except for O/D Face Plate

2007 Kawasaki Brute Force 750i
Dynatek CDI, Standard Muzzy, VFJ Clutch, EHS Lid, 42s Fuel Pump Conversion

2006 Kawasaki Brute Force 650i
Dynatek CDI, Dalton Springs, O/D Face Plate
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post #16 of 22 Old 05-08-2012, 09:22 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TooTall View Post
what is everyone using for an adjustable fuel pressure regualtor? . . .

my pump is blowing past the seats

What PSI should I get 3-4 psi?
I have had this happen a couple of times on my Brute. I have found that the pumps seem to vary a little in pressure. I have a cheap little vaccuum/pressure guage that I simply plug onto the outlet of the pump now before installing. The pump I was having problems with shows 8psi. The other three pumps I have bought show anywhere from 3-4psi. I have not seen a problem with any of the pumps showing the lower pressure. I believe that the 12s pump occasionally gets packaged as a 42s, but this is just a guess.
Another update, I have finally taken the time to replace the pump on MY brute again. I tested the new 42s pump and found that it also only shows about 3psi. I took the pump off that was showing 8psi. I am having no more problems with fuel pushing the needles open. My fuel levels were always high with the 8psi pump and would occasionaly flood it out on side hills.
With this being said, I would HIGHLY recommend checking the pressure on the pump before installing.

2012 Kawasaki Brute Force 750i non eps
Stock except for O/D Face Plate

2007 Kawasaki Brute Force 750i
Dynatek CDI, Standard Muzzy, VFJ Clutch, EHS Lid, 42s Fuel Pump Conversion

2006 Kawasaki Brute Force 650i
Dynatek CDI, Dalton Springs, O/D Face Plate
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post #17 of 22 Old 08-05-2012, 06:40 PM
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Thanks

Wanted to thank you guys for this valuable info (~$450 actually). I have an 2002 650 Prairie and after rebuilding the carb, I finally figured out the fuel pump was bad. Then after checking the price for a new pump (ridiculous $490+), I found this site and this post. I drove up to advanced auto parts and found the pump. I did do a few things different. I put the pump in the same spot as the old one, I simply slid the hose up on the existing pipe and was able to fit the new pump in to the old pump's spot. I cut the wires off the old pump and then used butt connectors and connected to the new pump, used heat shrink connectors, then double the heat shrink on top of that (I was a little concerned of getting a spark). Total time including the 15 min round trip to get the pump was just under 2 hours. Great information and tips, thanks again.
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post #18 of 22 Old 08-06-2012, 07:33 AM
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yes, that will absolutely work. with the 42S, if you grind off the molded plastic case, it's just a round small fuel pump.

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post #19 of 22 Old 08-07-2012, 07:48 PM
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Two notes, for those in the future who attempt the fix in the way that I did.
1. While you have the pump assembly out, replace the little piece of hose between the pump and the existing pipe. (Otherwise, you will likely have to tear it all apart very soon, to replace it anyway.)
2. Also take a good look inside your tank, drain it. I was actually glad I had to tear back into it. I had my son helping and he dropped the filter back into the tank. He stuck his hands in to retrieve it and said, "is all the pieces of plastic suppose to be in here???". I'm not real sure what is was from, but there were a lot of black pieces of plastic, all shapes and sizes, just waiting to be sucked up into the newly rebuilt carbs.

Just waiting on a 2WD 4WD actuator now. Hoping to have the beast back to life this weekend, it's been a long time... 3+ years!!!
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post #20 of 22 Old 11-19-2012, 10:04 PM
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How about trying the Mr. Gasket 12s. It is rated at 35 GPH and the 42s is rated ate 42 GPH. Has anyone tried the 12s? Maybe I will try it.
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