Brute Force 650i problems changing gear - Kawasaki ATV Forum
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post #1 of 22 Old 08-28-2018, 12:02 PM Thread Starter
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Brute Force 650i problems changing gear

What could be causing my problems on my brute? It's hard to change gear in it and I have to rock the atv forward/backward to get the gears changed. RPMs seem fine. CVT belt is worn out/has cracks and is pretty loose, but doubt that would cause it. Ordered new belt but I think it might be caused by something else. Any ideas? The brute has 3500 miles/600 hours on the clock.
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post #2 of 22 Old 08-28-2018, 01:09 PM
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they shift hard, its how all well designed quads are. they have strait cut gears that are designed to last, makes it loud and tough to shift sometimes, its better if you dont hold the brake.

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post #3 of 22 Old 08-28-2018, 01:39 PM Thread Starter
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Really? Good to know. Thought I had some issues with my brute and was worried it was broken. Only atv I have used before this was my Linhai that I had before the brute. It was never hard to change gears in it, but then again it felt like a toy compared to the brute and I was always worried I would break it.
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post #4 of 22 Old 08-28-2018, 04:41 PM
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Are you saying it needs to be forcefully placed in gear - that aint right . It should go in gear easy - it might make a slight clink clink noise going into gear, but it should go in easy without rocking. If you idle is turned up too much on a carbed brute, grinding may happen when placing it in gear if it will go at all. Also you may want to check to see if the front and rear motor mounts are good and tight as well.

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post #5 of 22 Old 08-28-2018, 06:32 PM
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As Dman says, it should go into gear easy. No rocking required. I've never once had to rock mine to get it into any gear.

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post #6 of 22 Old 08-29-2018, 01:42 AM
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had to any time its flat, same with the outlander, not serious rocking just moving my body. had both from new

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post #7 of 22 Old 08-29-2018, 08:06 AM Thread Starter
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Just tried to change gear without staring the brute and same issue. Wont change gear unless i rock the atv... Weird.
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post #8 of 22 Old 08-29-2018, 09:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VTwinKawi View Post
had to any time its flat, same with the outlander, not serious rocking just moving my body. had both from new
I have ridden a Can Am Outlander 650 G1, an 800 G1, and a 1000 G2. None of them required rocking to shift them into gear. The 1000 sometimes popped hard once throttle was applied, but it was never hard to move the lever into the range I wanted. The shift linkage probably needed some adjustment on that particular quad.

If your Can Am and Kawie require rocking to shift, then something is wrong with them. They are not supposed to be hard to shift. You should be able to do it with one finger.

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post #9 of 22 Old 08-29-2018, 10:35 AM Thread Starter
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Here is a video of changing gear while atv ain't running. It acts exactly the same while running. When camera moves it's me rocking the brute.

https://youtu.be/ziERcoZQkGU
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post #10 of 22 Old 08-29-2018, 02:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Illusmare View Post
Here is a video of changing gear while atv ain't running. It acts exactly the same while running. When camera moves it's me rocking the brute.

https://youtu.be/ziERcoZQkGU
How about a video of while its running ?
Your shifting while not running is normal to have to rock it to get the gears to mesh in the right spot.
While the engine is running, you should not be rocking it to get it into gear at all. This points me in the direction that your motor mounts could be loose causing the slightest play in the transmission gear selector rod to make it out of adjustment.
So did you buy the quad used and this is what you have, or was the quad always yours and did this just start ?
You need to check the motor mounts first. Place the rear parking brake on, and rock the quad forward and reverse while watching the engine for movement. If there is no movement, and you insured that all the motor mounts are tight, then you can try adjusting the tie rod in between the shifter and the trans selector. Loosen up both tie rod lock nuts, and turn the tie rod until you have the shifter sitting good in each gear position, while the engine is running. You only usually need to move the tie rod like maybe 1/16th to an 1/8th of a turn in either direction, so mark the rod and a stationary point at the gear selector. Get the adjustment wrong, and you can blow out the trans gear bearing by your left leg while in a hard throttle launch. This adjustment will require lots of patience, and may take a couple of tries till its right.

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