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post #1 of 12 Old 10-21-2018, 11:32 AM Thread Starter
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Brute force stalling with headlights. Video.

My 2006 brute force 750 has been stalling when I turn my headlights on. Also after it heats up it will stall randomly as if the kill botton was hit, and will not start
back up untill i cycle the key off and on. It is stock other then a full ss exhaust and carbs rejetted for it. I tried another ground from the battery to the frame with no difference. Battery 12.4v is charging after it starts up to over 13 volts. Seems electrical as it's both cylinders that cuts out. I made a video of it on YouTube......
https://youtu.be/_ny5usPJiek
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post #2 of 12 Old 10-21-2018, 04:34 PM
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There is a buss connector repair mod. I don't think the 06 750's had the issue, but you may want to check to see. On my 05, there is one at the rear right of the electronics tray which is usually the one that needs to be respliced, and there is on in the front right, to the right of the upper end of the steering shaft area.

05 Brute 750i Stock engine/ Muzzy Pro exhaust,Dynatec cdi,Vision Bruiser 14" wheels, 26" Bear Claw HTR Tires,3" intake snorkle - restricted,2" CVT snorkles,10" electric fan with custom mount,Mr Gasket Fuel Pump ,rejetted at #42 pilots, 3 out on A/F screws,stock needles shimmed .030",# 168/# 168 main Jets
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post #3 of 12 Old 10-27-2018, 11:36 AM Thread Starter
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So I just looked to make sure but I remember fixing the one at the rear. The one at the front is clean and free of corrosion and I found another yellow one above the front of the fuel tank and that one is clean as well. I took apart every connection I could see to clean them up and it is still doing the same thing....
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post #4 of 12 Old 10-28-2018, 12:19 AM
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So I just looked to make sure but I remember fixing the one at the rear. The one at the front is clean and free of corrosion and I found another yellow one above the front of the fuel tank and that one is clean as well. I took apart every connection I could see to clean them up and it is still doing the same thing....
That's a strange one. I'm going to bet on a bad ground. Where? Well who knows but I would start near the battery.

But either way, a bad connection has got to be it. So if it's a bad connection to ground or power to the ignition, same symptoms.
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post #5 of 12 Old 11-03-2018, 12:13 PM Thread Starter
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So I just looked to make sure but I remember fixing the one at the rear. The one at the front is clean and free of corrosion and I found another yellow one above the front of the fuel tank and that one is clean as well. I took apart every connection I could see to clean them up and it is still doing the same thing....
That's a strange one. I'm going to bet on a bad ground. Where? Well who knows but I would start near the battery.

But either way, a bad connection has got to be it. So if it's a bad connection to ground or power to the ignition, same symptoms.
I took your advise and checked all the grounds. I opened up the buse connector i got rid of a few years ago and re soldered. Added another ground between the main one on motor to frame to wire harness. Took apart and cleaned power from battery to solenoid to fuse block and out and all is good. Still doing exact same thing. I also tried another cdi box and no difference. Any other suggestions?
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post #6 of 12 Old 11-03-2018, 10:47 PM
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So I just looked to make sure but I remember fixing the one at the rear. The one at the front is clean and free of corrosion and I found another yellow one above the front of the fuel tank and that one is clean as well. I took apart every connection I could see to clean them up and it is still doing the same thing....
That's a strange one. I'm going to bet on a bad ground. Where? Well who knows but I would start near the battery.

But either way, a bad connection has got to be it. So if it's a bad connection to ground or power to the ignition, same symptoms.
I took your advise and checked all the grounds. I opened up the buse connector i got rid of a few years ago and re soldered. Added another ground between the main one on motor to frame to wire harness. Took apart and cleaned power from battery to solenoid to fuse block and out and all is good. Still doing exact same thing. I also tried another cdi box and no difference. Any other suggestions?
isn't that the kill switch right under the headlight switch? I wonder if the two are messing with each other some how? Can you take that thing apart and check it out? Or maybe disconnect the kill switch wire and test it that way? Man that is strange!
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post #7 of 12 Old 11-10-2018, 12:52 PM Thread Starter
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Had a chance to work on it some more. Disconnecting the kill switch doesn't change anything. I changed the headlight switch and no difference. I took apart the headlights and plugged the headlight harnesses in and it runs fine when I turn the headlights button on. But If I plug one bulb in it will not instantly kill the motor but will after a few seconds. 2 blubs will die instantly. Tried one just one bulb on either side same thing. Could it be the rectifier?
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post #8 of 12 Old 11-10-2018, 01:35 PM Thread Starter
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Also battery is at 12.4volts and when it starts it climbs to 14.2 fairly quickly.
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post #9 of 12 Old 11-10-2018, 09:28 PM
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Also battery is at 12.4volts and when it starts it climbs to 14.2 fairly quickly.
when running 14v is good. Any more like 15 is too high. Below 12 is too low when running.

Can you use a jumper wire to the headlight ground wire/s to ground on the quad and then try it. Its like the headlights are stealing the power from the ignition. Could be stealing the ground is what I'm saying to test.
also check the power at the ignition and headlight/s when it craps out.

Do you have a wiring diagram for it? Maybe you can jump a power to the ignition as a test.

That way you will know if its a power or ground problem.

Last edited by 18Kawi; 11-10-2018 at 09:34 PM.
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post #10 of 12 Old 12-18-2018, 10:57 AM Thread Starter
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Also battery is at 12.4volts and when it starts it climbs to 14.2 fairly quickly.
when running 14v is good. Any more like 15 is too high. Below 12 is too low when running.

Can you use a jumper wire to the headlight ground wire/s to ground on the quad and then try it. Its like the headlights are stealing the power from the ignition. Could be stealing the ground is what I'm saying to test.
also check the power at the ignition and headlight/s when it craps out.

Do you have a wiring diagram for it? Maybe you can jump a power to the ignition as a test.

That way you will know if its a power or ground problem.

I took a little break from working on it. My new plan was to forget about the headlights and just install an led light bar on the front rack wired to the battery, so I put the machine all back together so I could at least use it to plow snow and come to find out operating the winch does the same thing. Battery voltage is low ( just under 12 volts) where I haven't kept it on a tender so I put jumper cables onto it from the battery out of my tractor, same thing... it will kill the motor when operating the winch that is wired directly to the battery. So that would rule out a problem with the wiring harness wouldn't it? which leads to the battery, but will still do it jumpered to a larger good battery...It will also stall on its own randomly even with the idle set higher then normal, and showing over 14 volts while running....
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