Adjusting valves and oil fill in front gear box - Kawasaki ATV Forum
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post #1 of 11 Old 04-15-2019, 04:16 AM Thread Starter
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Adjusting valves and oil fill in front gear box

I just purchased a 2019 Pro FX and want to perform all the maintenance myself. I ordered, but have yet to receive the service manual. I've got 3 questions:
1. Does anyone have a link to a YouTude showing how to adjust valves using shims? I've owned several motorcycles (BMW, Triumph) where I've adjusted valves using lock and adjusting nuts, but I've never used shims.
2. What's the best approach to accessing fill hole on front wheel gear box when there is a winch attached? Based on a couple of sources people have mentioned either removing winch or the front bumper. Is one easier than the other, or is there yet a better approach?
3. What's the best way to remove the oil filter? I've seen several YouTube videos on removing oil filter on the FXT, but none on the FX.
Thanks for any suggestions.
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post #2 of 11 Old 04-15-2019, 06:47 AM
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I'm no help on the valves.
I take the bumper off to change the front gearbox oil, seems easier to me.
Take the flat plastic panel off right behind the seat, the oil filter will then be easy to access.
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post #3 of 11 Old 04-15-2019, 11:49 AM
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My dealer said he never has had to touch any of the Kawasaki valves yet. They all have been fine up past 100 hours.
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post #4 of 11 Old 04-15-2019, 12:20 PM
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post #5 of 11 Old 04-15-2019, 04:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PETDOC View Post
I just purchased a 2019 Pro FX and want to perform all the maintenance myself. I ordered, but have yet to receive the service manual. I've got 3 questions:
1. Does anyone have a link to a YouTude showing how to adjust valves using shims? I've owned several motorcycles (BMW, Triumph) where I've adjusted valves using lock and adjusting nuts, but I've never used shims.
2. What's the best approach to accessing fill hole on front wheel gear box when there is a winch attached? Based on a couple of sources people have mentioned either removing winch or the front bumper. Is one easier than the other, or is there yet a better approach?
3. What's the best way to remove the oil filter? I've seen several YouTube videos on removing oil filter on the FXT, but none on the FX.
Thanks for any suggestions.
got almost 5 k on my mule pro fxt and have never touched the valves and my dealer told me they suggest 5k before doing the shims and if its not bothering then keep using it it`s a car motor it should last a long time just keep your oil and filter changed
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post #6 of 11 Old 04-16-2019, 03:26 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by shadowm77 View Post
got almost 5 k on my mule pro fxt and have never touched the valves and my dealer told me they suggest 5k before doing the shims and if its not bothering then keep using it it`s a car motor it should last a long time just keep your oil and filter changed
Interesting comments on valve adjustments. Based on reading many of the threads posted on this forum regarding 1st service performed by dealers, many owners either suspect or were told by dealer that the valve clearances were not checked. During 4 decades of cross-county motorcycling I've owned 7 motorcycles, the last 3 were BMW opposed twins. What I found is at 6,000 miles the valves were slightly out of adjustment, but after that up to 100,000 miles adjustments were rarely needed. It appears the valves in Kawasaki Mule PRO FX motors stay close enough to recommended tolerances that adjustments arn't routinely needed. For peace of mind I'll probably check valve clearance at my 20 hour service.
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post #7 of 11 Old 04-16-2019, 11:33 AM
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Shim bucket style valves or a pain to adjust they’re not that bad to check but if an adjustment is necessary then that requires removing camshaft, micrometers, and shims. Then once you put it all back together you still may have to make an adjustment. I started working on ATVs and motorcycles in 1992 I went to work at a Yamaha dealership in 1995 semi bucket style valve adjustments were common on in l I started working on ATVs and motorcycles in 1992 I went to work at a Yamaha dealership in 1995 as a technician. Shim and bucket style valve adjustments were common on in-line motorcycle engines. Mainly on high revving engines is were I saw this application most. No need for rocker arms or push rods. It is a direct contact with the top of the valve springs with the bucket taking the friction and the shim determining clearance. I have been a Caterpillar engine mechanic for 20 years in the oilfield now. Bikes are my passion oil field is where the money is. Anyway, all cylinder heads have a break in period where the valves recede into the head, thus taking up clearance. Most of this occurs during the first several hours of use(mainly determined by the manufacturer from testing, designing, and engineering). I have adjusted valves on engines that were rated at 8500 hp down to 3hp and I can say, it will have to be done. Don’t let anyone tell you to wait if manufacturers suggest a certain timeframe to do this. If you neglect to listen then be prepared for the worst. Caterpillar has a tool to determine a baseline valve recession and trends it from there to avoid failure. If the book says 100 hours then that’s when the engineer is suspecting initial recession to be complete. Now a valve that had .020 clearance only has .004. Numbers are for argument sake but you see where I’m going with this. Once valves lose clearance they don’t seat and transfer heat or seal off combustion chambe blah,blah,Blah! The checking of the clearance is not hard it’s the adjustment. So give them a check with a feeler gauge and verify for peice of mind. The book says to check these cold which is the exact opposite of everything I’ve been taught but that is where they have clearance specs set so check them cold. Anyway. I’m a plethora of useless knowledge when it comes to engines. I can go on and on but the moral to the story is, if they can design, engineer, and mass produce an engine, then they can tell you when to check what. Sorry for the long post. This is my first on here. Just bought a used 2016 pro-fxt and I love it. And I have not checked my valve clearance yet, but it’s on the list. 😉
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post #8 of 11 Old 04-16-2019, 03:58 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks CATwrencher. I use to re-torque the heads and check the valves on my BMW motorcycles' valves every 6,000 miles until the gap stopped changing. As I recall they stopped moving after the 3rd check.
I'll try to remember to post my PRO FX clearances at 20 hour service on this thread.
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post #9 of 11 Old 04-21-2019, 05:13 PM
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My valves shim adjustment was at 2000 miles and the said it needed adjustments when they got into it. Im up at 6500ASL, outside of Virginia City, NV. Also have the Doebeck tuner on it.


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post #10 of 11 Old 04-21-2019, 05:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cguyotm View Post
My valves shim adjustment was at 2000 miles and the said it needed adjustments when they got into it. Im up at 6500ASL, outside of Virginia City, NV. Also have the Doebeck tuner on it.


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I'd like to know how you like the Dobeck tuner. I'll start another thread so I don't hijack this one.


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