Kawasaki ATV Forum banner
1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
the clutch on my '04 prairie is staying engaged. this causes it to die if you try and stop in gear just like not pressing the clutch peddle on a manual car. I pulled the belt cover off and one of the weights was just pushing out keeping the belt turning. I took a punch and lightly tapped it and it fell back in place and now it moves in and out.

is this a fluke issue or is going to keep happening frequently. if it does keep happening what all do I need to replace on the clutch? here is a picture of it stuck out.

76676
Tire Wheel Automotive tire Motor vehicle Tread
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
4,882 Posts
Clearly the clutch is overdue for a rebuild. The rollers are shot, the weight's bushings are warn through, the ramps are wasted, the shoes are warn down to nothing..metal to metal on the towers, and probably the pins are scared so bad they need replaced as well... That one may even be broken. Pull it and have a shop rebuild it...top to bottom...and get another 8,000 miles out of it...that is if the sheaves aren't also wasted and have flat spots. If so...it's not worth it, just buy a new one. If they get serviced once in a while they do last much longer..which is just a good cleaning and some re-polishing every 800-1200 miles.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Clearly the clutch is overdue for a rebuild. The rollers are shot, the weight's bushings are warn through, the ramps are wasted, the shoes are warn down to nothing..metal to metal on the towers, and probably the pins are scared so bad they need replaced as well... That one may even be broken. Pull it and have a shop rebuild it...top to bottom...and get another 8,000 miles out of it...that is if the sheaves aren't also wasted and have flat spots. If so...it's not worth it, just buy a new one. If they get serviced once in a while they do last much longer..which is just a good cleaning and some re-polishing every 800-1200 miles.
at least the clutch cover is still good, I see you said have a shop rebuild it, is this not something I Should attempt?The only experience I have with rebuilding clutches is I did one on my Rhino last year and it wasn’t bad to do, however this one could be more difficult. If not would it be better to send to an independent shop, dealer or is there someone to mail it off to? The reason I ask is the local CAT dealer bought our Kawasaki dealership and now parts pricing has followed CAT and is sky high, I figure labor is also.

Mainenance might have made this one last longer but I’m not complaining about it, this one lasted 17 years with just 2 belts and that’s it on the clutch side.

thanks for the quick response
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
4,882 Posts
Well..it needs so much it's going to have to have some special consideration. And some special tools to pull it down and measure for the right shoes. It cost me 220 to have mine rebuilt but it didn't need all yours does. And again, if the sheaves are warn...she's gone so take a look for anything like this or even the startings of it.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well..it needs so much it's going to have to have some special consideration. And some special tools to pull it down and measure for the right shoes. It cost me 220 to have mine rebuilt but it didn't need all yours does. And again, if the sheaves are warn...she's gone so take a look for anything like this or even the startings of it.

Thank you, I will check that out when I get back home. It looks like a new primary clutch is about $800 online.
Parts look to be 3-500 depending on what is wrong plus labor.

while rebuilding/replacing the primary sheave, is there anything I should do to the secondary sheave?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
4,882 Posts
Thank you, I will check that out when I get back home. It looks like a new primary clutch is about $800 online.
Parts look to be 3-500 depending on what is wrong plus labor.

while rebuilding/replacing the primary sheave, is there anything I should do to the secondary sheave?
A full cleaning and servicing never hurts. Check the pins/dogs for wear and replace of necessary and re-grease. Clean-up the surfaces but again, if it deeply groved..its gone.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Got home and pulled the primary clutch tonight, it looks worse than the picture you posted I believe. Seeing this, is my only or best option complete new primary clutch?
Ruler Office ruler Finger Font Engineering
Ruler Office ruler Automotive tire Tape measure Measuring instrument
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
12,654 Posts
Buy a new one.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Will do, thank you for answering all my questions. What is the best way to clean out inside the case and cover?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
42 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
thanks again, I pulled the secondary clutch apart tonight and started cleaning it up, will replace the seals in it before I put it back together. the surface on it seems fine. other than clean it up and regrease is there anything else to do before i put it back together?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
4,882 Posts
thanks again, I pulled the secondary clutch apart tonight and started cleaning it up, will replace the seals in it before I put it back together. the surface on it seems fine. other than clean it up and regrease is there anything else to do before i put it back together?
Just when you do re-install, use the proper torque. Very important. And on the primary, clean the crank shaft and the clutch hub with something that leaves NO film like acetone. Nothing must be there...not even fingerprint oils.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top