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Afternoon everyone, new to the site, requesting info on what
Starting again, mobile device failed me, requesting info on what I could test next. 08 prairie 360 cranks, tries to start but sputters and dies. this is what has been done thus far
1. replaced carb, but went back to original after machines symptoms were slightly worse
a. cleaned original because it had the correct main jet. adjusted float to specs (.68), removed tamper proof cover over pilot jet and counted turns in from factory 1/2 turn - readjusted to 1 1/2 start point
2. cleaned fuel tank, pet cock. replaced existing fuel with 91 no ethanol
3. adjusted valves to specs, removing plug and lined up "T" on case as well as the mark on the top of the timing chain (compression stroke) both valves were tight initially
4. performed compression check on cold engine (115 psi) with throttle wide open
5. replaced spark plug with NGK correct spark plug listed by manual
6. checked coil as per service Kawasaki service manual - found primary side was out of spec. replaced coil as well as cap boot.
7. checked belt switch light thinking bike could be in "limp" mode when we removed belt cover and rocked switch back/forth the belt switch started to flash. now we will have to reset that but to our understanding bike should start/idle.

while cranking; bike will try to start but only run a couple of seconds with/without choke. also, while still cranking you can pump the throttle and it will try and rev but as soon as the starter is release bike will sputter and die

the last thing is the battery is shot on this bike. all tests have been done while hooked to a battery charger in the "start mode", does kawasaki require its own battery source to run/idle

thanks
 

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Did you fully clean the carb?
Does it have strong spark at the plug?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Carb has been electronically cleaned and all passages have been verified open
Strong spark - even before replacing coil. We thought it sounded like an ignition problem and when we checked coil per service manual, the primary side was out of spec the coil was replaced.
Thanks for your input
 

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Verify that the carb is filling with gas.
Is there any way to pour a bit of gas in the intake to see if it will run?
 

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Thank you, I went home to visit family this weekend and won't be returning to the city till Monday. I had asked the owner of the bike to pick up a battery and plug so at least the quad should be able to try and start under its own battery without having to be boosted. Will let you know Monday what we find out
 

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Thank you, I went home to visit family this weekend and won't be returning to the city till Monday. I had asked the owner of the bike to pick up a battery and plug so at least the quad should be able to try and start under its own battery without having to be boosted. Will let you know Monday what we find out
I didn't read the whole way through your first post. :(
The new, charged battery will probably fix it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thank you NovaKaw650 the battery was the culprit. The bike hasn't run this well in years. He has always jumped the bike to start it and always said it was unreliable. We both learned a lesson.
Thanks again
 

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Glad it's fixed.
 

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Starting again, mobile device failed me, requesting info on what I could test next. 08 prairie 360 cranks, tries to start but sputters and dies. this is what has been done thus far
1. replaced carb, but went back to original after machines symptoms were slightly worse
a. cleaned original because it had the correct main jet. adjusted float to specs (.68), removed tamper proof cover over pilot jet and counted turns in from factory 1/2 turn - readjusted to 1 1/2 start point
2. cleaned fuel tank, pet cock. replaced existing fuel with 91 no ethanol
3. adjusted valves to specs, removing plug and lined up "T" on case as well as the mark on the top of the timing chain (compression stroke) both valves were tight initially
4. performed compression check on cold engine (115 psi) with throttle wide open
5. replaced spark plug with NGK correct spark plug listed by manual
6. checked coil as per service Kawasaki service manual - found primary side was out of spec. replaced coil as well as cap boot.
7. checked belt switch light thinking bike could be in "limp" mode when we removed belt cover and rocked switch back/forth the belt switch started to flash. now we will have to reset that but to our understanding bike should start/idle.

while cranking; bike will try to start but only run a couple of seconds with/without choke. also, while still cranking you can pump the throttle and it will try and rev but as soon as the starter is release bike will sputter and die

the last thing is the battery is shot on this bike. all tests have been done while hooked to a battery charger in the "start mode", does kawasaki require its own battery source to run/idle

thanks
I recently had trouble starting my 2007 prairie and tried ether, checked for spark etc. Sometimes it would pop but never run. I hooked up a regular 12v car battery and it would start and run fine. As soon as disconnected one of the jumper cables the engine started to run rough. Reconnected the cable and it ran smooth again. repeated and had the same results. It appears the electronics need a full battery charge to run right. I strapped the car battery to the back rack and grounded the neg. to the frame with a battery cable and the positive with a cable to the connection on the small ATV battery - ran great - in fact it is running better than it ever did. I plowed about 10" of snow for the next hour and no problems. My preliminary conclusion is the Kaw needs a fully charged battery. Since a 12v car battery is cheaper than the small battery, I am going to by pass the small battery and see how I can connect up the car battery with a cutoff switch - will let you know what happens
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I recently had trouble starting my 2007 prairie and tried ether, checked for spark etc. Sometimes it would pop but never run. I hooked up a regular 12v car battery and it would start and run fine. As soon as disconnected one of the jumper cables the engine started to run rough. Reconnected the cable and it ran smooth again. repeated and had the same results. It appears the electronics need a full battery charge to run right. I strapped the car battery to the back rack and grounded the neg. to the frame with a battery cable and the positive with a cable to the connection on the small ATV battery - ran great - in fact it is running better than it ever did. I plowed about 10" of snow for the next hour and no problems. My preliminary conclusion is the Kaw needs a fully charged battery. Since a 12v car battery is cheaper than the small battery, I am going to by pass the small battery and see how I can connect up the car battery with a cutoff switch - will let you know what happens
i know we learned a lesson
 

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Volvoplus, you're not fixing the problem by opting to put a car battery on your bike. Obviously, there is a charging system problem that you should fix. I'd check the stator and voltage regulator as that is what runs your bike while it is running, and charges your battery. By putting a car battery on there and not fixing the issue, your bike is obviously running off the battery which it's not supposed to do. Fixer up eh!!
 

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I checked the running voltage and it was fine (13.6+v) but the battery in the cold was only at 11.5v. I am trying to see if there is a battery drain since the battery is only a year old and may put in a disconnect but our temperatures here of 0 to 20 degrees are hard on the batteries unless you run it frequently or keep a trickle charger on it. I was just surprised how sensitive the system is to a low battery - it would turn over but not start.
 

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Definitely might have a parasitic draw on that system. I can let my Brute sit for months and she fires right up every time. Shouldn't have to keep a trickle charger on it if you have a fully charged battery and your charging system is working properly with no draws while parked. Do you have any aftermarket lighting on yur quad? If you do, check the wiring to those. Winch? Check those too. Never know where it could be, but any aftermarket wiring, especially if you personally didn't do it, is always suspect. I've seen some pretty atrocious wiring done by previous owners.
 
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I checked the running voltage and it was fine (13.6+v) but the battery in the cold was only at 11.5v. I am trying to see if there is a battery drain since the battery is only a year old and may put in a disconnect but our temperatures here of 0 to 20 degrees are hard on the batteries unless you run it frequently or keep a trickle charger on it. I was just surprised how sensitive the system is to a low battery - it would turn over but not start.
11.5v is a dead battery.
 

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Definitely might have a parasitic draw on that system. I can let my Brute sit for months and she fires right up every time. Shouldn't have to keep a trickle charger on it if you have a fully charged battery and your charging system is working properly with no draws while parked. Do you have any aftermarket lighting on yur quad? If you do, check the wiring to those. Winch? Check those too. Never know where it could be, but any aftermarket wiring, especially if you personally didn't do it, is always suspect. I've seen some pretty atrocious wiring done by previous owners.
I will do some checking on the wiring - I have found some questionable wiring to the winch and some missing wiring so will have to do a serch and trace again. Thanks for the suggestions
 

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11.5v is a dead battery.
Good call Nova. I missed that one when I read Volvo's post. Ya, a 12 volt battery will measure at about 12.9 volts when it's fully charged and about 11.4 volts when it is fully discharged. Doesn't matter how old your battery is either. It will either hold a charge, or it won't.
 
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