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Discussion Starter #1
Hi! I'm new here but I think this is how you do this haha.

Details:

Me and my boyfriend have an 09 Brute Force 750i 4X4, we bought it with 100 hours on it and it ran fine, it was in bad need of an oil change but there was no gunk or anything like that, it just hadn't been changed in a while. We changed the oil and fluids. This bike is snorkled, relocated radiator, on 30 inch silverbacks, it has no engine mods or fancy exhaust.

Well we took it to an offroad adventure park here in bama called Boggs & Boulders, we had a blast the first day and then the second day the fan wouldn't come on so we eased back to the camper and started hearing a knock. Needless to say we had to get the crank and rod bearings and all that good stuff replaced.

We got the motor back in and hooked everything up, it cranked but wouldn't idle without some assistance (a little throttle), and when he tried to ride it, it won't go over 30 mph and is acting kinda sluggish. What the heck!? I'm ready to ride this bad boy before it gets cold.

The belt light came on so I reset it thinking it would help but it definitely didn't do anything. We checked and the belt is in good shape, we got new spark plugs, and cleaned the air filter..

Any ideas guys?
 

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The knock you have heard is probably caused by the belt being very lose. This will trigger a little switch in the case that tells the computer that something is wrong in there. So it will limit the power output to save the clutch and the belt.

This is reffered to as 'limp mode''. Just take the clutch cover off and retrip the switch.

If this is the problem and not something else, you will have to adjust your belt deflection. Search for it in the forums there is plenty of information on this.

Hope this helps happy trails.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So even though the belt light isn't on anymore and it isn't knocking it could be I need to trip the switch? I hope that's it! Do you know where the switch is located in the cover?
 

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It is very easy to spot it. It's a little metal switch on the inside top of the cover. Just next to the KEBC actuator fork. It's On or Off so it's worth a try to see if that works. Should take you 5 minutes.

The belt probably isn't knocking anymore because of the limited power going to the drivetrain. This is especially made for that. There is no spare belt on the Brutes and you don't want it snapping in the middle of nowhere.

Better get home at 30mph than walking home.:D
 

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Make sure you get your belt adjusted or the light and the limp mode will trigger again.
 

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You said it only has 100 hours and the belt looked good. It may have stretched a bit, loosening it up. Iw ould not put a new one on unles you see some glazing or something. Just try adjusting it.

The tires you have are very big for a stock clutch to handle. Those 30'' put a lot of strain on the belt. You should look into stiffer secondary springs.

Also did the bike get serviced by the dealer? The first service is important as they check all the components that may need adjustment from factory.

I may also be completely wrong and something is wrong with the engine. (I hope not)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Our mechanic friend serviced it for us. And we had everything wrong with the engine fixed so hopefully it is because that's a TON of $$$ invested lol. Is there any way for me to adjust the belt? The belt it self looked fine but then again this is my first brute so I'm not really sure what to be looking for, we recently just got into fourwheelers and got a GREAT deal on this one, and now I see why!:mad:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Also, since there are such big tires on it, is there something we should do to the clutch and if it is what do you recommend?
 

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Hey Rundown,
Is the switch supposed to be in the on or off position? I can't remember off the top of my head but I know that tons of people are confused about it.

Kawi09,
If you get a dynatek CDI you won't have to deal with the limp mode anymore. It will eliminate limp mode. Eliminating limp mode is good and bad, it will let you drive the thing until the belt breaks but it's worth it to me. The time between when the limp mode would normally kick on and when the belt will actually break is usually 50+ hours of hard riding. And it will give you a better power curve so that you'll get more performance out of the bike. I wouldn’t own a Kawasaki without a dynatek CDI.
 

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Use the search forums tool and type belt deflection. You will probably find a buch of topics detailing this.

I have never done it myself so I don't know exactly how to do it. I know you have to take off the secondary clutch and add or remove shims. But taking off the secondary clutch requires a special tool that you can buy at your dealer. Or look some more around the forums if you're good at fabricating things you can make one yourself.

Regarding the engine i don't thing it's anything major. It is running after all. Check the air filter and make sure the fuel is fresh.

Brute has a point with the dyna CDI. But first get you engine working properly and look into clutching first. Don't unleash the beast with the dyna on a stock clutch setup and 30' tires. The belt will fly in no time.

I bought my prairie and put the dyna on it right away so, i really don't know where the switch is suposed to be.
 

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If you’re willing to give up some of your top speed you can change the secondary clutch spring and you will get better torque and it will help the bike turn the larger tires that you have. It’ll only cost $20-$30 but you will lose top speed.

If you’re not willing to give up top speed but want the increased torque on the bottom end you’ll need to get in touch with VFORCEJOHN. He’s a sponsor on the site and has his own thread. Interstate Motor Sports I believe. He’ll work his magic on the clutches by changing the springs and shaving some metal off the clutch gears OR SOMETHING LIKE THAT. I’m not sure exactly what he does but it’s awesome. It will give you the increased low end torque and you’ll be able to maintain your current top speed but it’s going to cost $300 to $400. I think $350 to be exact.
 

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The clutching depends on your budget really. VForcejohn will custom cut you clutch to get the maximum out of the machine depending on YOUR riding style and setup. But you are looking a 200-400$. But from what people say on this site he really does work wonders.

Where as the spring only apply more pressure on the belt preventing it from slipping from the weight of those tires. This is a 30$ investment and will save you belt.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I have a clutch puller so I can take it off no problem, this may be a dumb question but could you explain to me how to "add or remove shims"?

The secondary clutch spring sounds pretty good to me, maybe because it's not expensive and after getting the engine fixed and buying the thing we have about 7k in it :eek:
 

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You only need the special tool for the primary clutch. All you need to take off the secondary clutch is a 27mm socket and an impact gun. It helps to take both off at the same time though. You won’t have to pry the belt off if you take them off at the same time.
 

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Thank you I bookmarked it also! I'm hoping it will be as simple as flipping a switch and if that helps then fixing the belt/clutch, maybe getting some smaller tires, there's no need for the 30's I don't think, it does look good sitting in the shop though lol. I'm really hoping it's a not a fuel pump or transmission problem EEK!
 

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Smaller tires will make the machine go much quicker be careful out there. They're not called Brute Force for nothing.:D

Did you make sure the fuel is fresh?

Transmission a pretty much bullet proof. And clutches are pretty tough too. My prairie came got me back home on a broken shiftgate. I've never heard so much ratcheting from gears in my life and it's still going strong.

Do you know why you brute always whines? It's because of the straight cut gears wich is the same thing as in racing transmissions. They're built for strenght.

 
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