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I agree 100% that the cylinder should be checked to be sure its in spec before pistons are ordered. On nikasil if its it clean and clearance checks out then no need to bore. Normal sleeves I always give to the the shop and have them check and spec out pistons.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Thanks, I'm sending the crank and rods out to Revz today I may throw on a couple cylinders to the order. I'm still trying to decide on used, new, or replating but I think you guys have given me the information to make a informed decision. Any other parts you recommend replacing while I'm in here? I'm doing seals and the crank bushing
 

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Yes. While your heads are off, you may want to have your intake seats cut 2mm wide. VFJ is doing this on all his top end jobs now. He says this will prevent the intake valves from sinking into the heads.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Yes. While your heads are off, you may want to have your intake seats cut 2mm wide. VFJ is doing this on all his top end jobs now. He says this will prevent the intake valves from sinking into the heads.
I'll look into it, thanks. I've decided to go with stock used jugs and CP pistons. I would have preferred Wiseco but this was in a kit together and I understand CP is just about as good or maybe better than Wiseco.
I'm going Vertex on gaskets, and OEM on seals. Do you see any problems with that?
 

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I've always used oem gaskets. Don't know anything about Vertex.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
I'm starting to get some parts in. I went with all OEM gaskets and seals. Also Revzcycles was able to fix my crank. I have some questions about my cylinders I got though. They are used but we're supposed to be bolt and go. They appear to be in spec size about 84.90mm but they have zero cross hatch, and some minor pitting. The pitting I cant really feel but I can see slight pits in them. One spot is pretty bad towards the crankcase end. Is that a problem? Also I assume they should have some cross hatch? I was planning on buying a hone and redoing it correctly but should I just send them back do to the pitting? They don't seem good to me but the seller on eBay said they were good and he had good ratings so I would like to have your opinions if/before I tell him he's wrong. Lol
Thanks in advance!
 

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It's got a Nikacil coating; I would not expect yo see any cross hatch pattern. Do some research before you hit it with a hone.
 

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Yeah the Nikacil plating/coating is very thin to start with and it looks like your guy honed the heck out of it already..enough to break through on that bottom edge. That may just be a defect in the platting though. Do your research like Nova says cause if it gets too thin..well let's just say it's a bad thing. I have seen brand new ones with light hash marks.
 

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You probably don't own the correct mic tool to determine if the bore is in spec. Measuring the top and bottom with a caliper is useless.
Seriously, save yourself a lot of grief and labor, and send those jugs to a reputable machine shop to be inspected. They can determine what needs to be done. They see stuff like this on a daily basis.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Sorry I didnt update you guys on the cylinders. I thought I replied. I ended up taking them to a shop and he said they needed work. I just returned them and bought some replated ones from US Chrome. They look A LOT better! Also I bought a set of Wiseco pistons and rings. I started putting it together today and so far its going well, one question though. Is the intermediate chain shaft supposed to have play going in and out? Looking at it from the top (like sitting on the quad) it moves left and right a good 1/2 inch. I can't remember from when I took it out if thats how it was. I suppose the chains would hold it but that doesn't seem right. The manual doesn't say anything about installing the intermediate shaft for some reason. 🤔
 

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It shouldn't have that much play after you install the snap ring.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Yep thats what I missed. Manual doesn't mention it for some reason and I didnt notice it was missing at first. Thanks. New question. I'm on to the cylinders but the front one is not fitting in the case. Rear slides in easy as nothing but the front isn't close to going in. Cylinder is 96.8~96.9mm OD and case is 96.4mm ID. Anyone ran into this before? I'm trying to find the specs to see which is off. I'm assuming cylinder though. Maybe they got some of the nikisil plating on the outside? It doesn't look that way but who knows. Thanks.
 

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That's odd. Are you sure you're putting the cylinders in the correct locations? Though they look the same, there is a specific front cylinder and a specific rear cylinder. (Same story for the heads).
 

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Discussion Starter #34 (Edited)
Yes I'm sure now. Thats what I thought at first. I tried it in the rear hole and its still to big and the rear cylinder slides in the front hole easy. The rear cylinder measures 95mm OD so for some reason the front one is around a 1.5 mm thicker. I measured the actual wall thickness and it tells the same story so its not just oversized all around. I guess I'll contact the company and see what they say. Never thought getting cylinders would be such a pain!
 

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the cylinder that fits is for a 2005 - 2011. the one that doesn`t fit is for a 2012 and up.
 
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