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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
EDIT: Update. Go to page 4 for my current predicament. :(

A little help needed here please!

My bike is stock except for no toil super flow, yoshi duals, and the following....
I just did the 12 hole mod, jetted to 182/185, shimmed the needles, fuel screws 2-1/2 out, cut 3/4" of springs, & polished the sides. Now it stalls immediately when I give it throttle. I messed with the fuel screws a little, seemed to run best with them all they way in.

So I thought maybe it was too rich and jetted it down to 175/178. It's a tiny bit better but still stalls with even 5% throttle. The slides seem to be working properly. I can hear & see the rear slide sputtering when I give it throttle. I took it back out and double checked it was clean & seated properly it seems fine. Also choke seems to working properly. It stalls the bike out when I open it fully.

Any help would be very much appreciated!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Here's a video of it idling and then stalling with just a little throttle.
This is with 175/178 jets & fuel screw 2-1/2 turns out.

Link:YouTube - KFX 700 carb problem

 

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Does it do that with the airbox/filter on too?
 

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When you did the 12 hole did you close off the stock snorkel?---Did you put the shims all the way up to the end of the stems.

Kenny
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yes it does do it with the air box on, I just took it off to get a better look and re-check the slides.
And yes I did block of the stock snorkel hole with a paint can lid.

Thanks for the replies! Keep the ideas coming!
 

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Yes it does do it with the air box on, I just took it off to get a better look and re-check the slides.
And yes I did block of the stock snorkel hole with a paint can lid.

Thanks for the replies! Keep the ideas coming!
Was the idle screw with the black plastic knob touched, (not the fuel srews)---If it will idle try turning that out some to see if idle increases-----Sounds like the diaphrams not sealing up properly.

Kenny
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I have tested that. Idle adjuster is working fine. Idle increase / decreases when turned accordingly.

I just pulled the the front plug and the tip is solid black. These are new plugs only been on 3 runs. Does that mean it's running rich?
 

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I have tested that. Idle adjuster is working fine. Idle increase / decreases when turned accordingly.

I just pulled the the front plug and the tip is solid black. These are new plugs only been on 3 runs. Does that mean it's running rich?
Yes--But in the 170's you are definitely not rich on mains and the stock #40 pilot should be just right------------------I know you have messed with the diaphrams but I remember when mine did similar I took em out 3 times to check and on the 4th time I got it right and bam power was back----Mine didn't shut off , but it bogged down and was powerless:hmm::hmm:

Kenny
 

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Don't worry about the main jets; they have nothing to do with the stalling.
Just looked at your video; the slide on the rear carb wasn't moving when it stalled, the front was fluttering, which is normal.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I have tested that. Idle adjuster is working fine. Idle increase / decreases when turned accordingly.

I just pulled the the front plug and the tip is solid black. These are new plugs only been on 3 runs. Does that mean it's running rich?
Yes--But in the 170's you are definitely not rich on mains and the stock #40 pilot should be just right------------------I know you have messed with the diaphrams but I remember when mine did similar I took em out 3 times to check and on the 4th time I got it right and bam power was back----Mine didn't shut off , but it bogged down and was powerless:hmm::hmm:

Kenny
I don't know what could be wrong with the diaphragms. They really isn't much of a trick to putting them in correctly is there? There's only one way they line up. Would maybe cutting the spring 3/4" hurt?

I will take another look at them just to be sure. I'll put back in the 182/185 jets too.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Don't worry about the main jets; they have nothing to do with the stalling.
Really? but it ran fine before I rejetted it, polished the slides, & cut the spring.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Don't worry about the main jets; they have nothing to do with the stalling.
Really? but it ran fine before I rejetted it, polished the slides, & cut the spring.
Yes.
Reread my last post.

Ah I see what you're saying. I just tested the diaphrams with a shop vac to test the vacuum. And the front on open correctly, while the rear didn't even move! :confused: So now the is question why isn't the rear slide and/or diaphram functioning correctly? What should I look for?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Update: Upon further inspection of the rear diaphram I found a very very small tear on the outer edge where it would seal with the carb. The tear is less than a 10th of an inch across....could this really make that big of a difference? Could I repair it?
 

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Do the front and rear slides work freely and evenly if you push them open with your finger? If not, you may have the spring in a position where it's binding.
The diaphrams have a tiny brass piece that fits in the rubber tab on the edge of the diaphram. Is it still there?
 

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Update: Upon further inspection of the rear diaphram I found a very very small tear on the outer edge where it would seal with the carb. The tear is less than a 10th of an inch across....could this really make that big of a difference? Could I repair it?
Even a pinhole will screw it up, if it's to the interior of the flange.
I don't know if it can be fixed. A new one is not cheap.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
They both move evenly. The small piece of brass is still there on both.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Update: Upon further inspection of the rear diaphram I found a very very small tear on the outer edge where it would seal with the carb. The tear is less than a 10th of an inch across....could this really make that big of a difference? Could I repair it?
Even a pinhole will screw it up, if it's to the interior of the flange.
I don't know if it can be fixed. A new one is not cheap.
Crap. The tear goes all the way through but it's right on the flange, the little rubber lip. I can see light through it. I must have torn it when polishing the slide :mad: Do you suppose I should just order a new one?

EDIT - I just looked on bikebandit and these things are $100! That's ridiculous. At that price I might as well attempt to fix mine....
 

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They both move evenly. The small piece of brass is still there on both.
Then there must be a leak. Reverse them and see if the problem moves to the front carb.
Oops! we're posting out of turn.
A new one would be the best course of action.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
They both move evenly. The small piece of brass is still there on both.
Then there must be a leak. Reverse them and see if the problem moves to the front carb.
Oops! we're posting out of turn.
A new one would be the best course of action.
lol yeah we're posting at the same time. Unfortunately I bet that even if I fix the tear it will just tear again in the same spot eventually. Too much flexing, fast movement, & of course vacuum.

I'm going to go ahead and order a new one. Thanks for your help NovaKaw & Kenny.
 
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