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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey everyone new to this site and looking for a hand. I currently have a 09 bf 750 and a can am 500l. I'm not a mechanic by any means but welder and hvac by trade so im not mechanically gone.. that said i am trying to replace my front axles and some wheel bearing on my brute force and i cant find for the life of me a pair of front axles. I found a brand sixity i wanted to try because of the price but it looks like the only front axles they make are for the 650. I havent even gotten into the bearings yet.

If anyone has bought axles for there 09 in the past who did you use? I ride it pretty easy i dont need any crazy axles. Thanks everyone

update.... so i ended up finding one but now im confused why they look different. Is it something to do with the drive train? let me know if i picked out the right ones from anyone's experience



 

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The lefts and rights are different on both the 650s and the 750s and are also different between the two models. You must order for your specific machine and..side. Also know you will need some specific tools...as in larger metric sockets and torque wrench. Best have a shop/service manual as well...and your machanicical abilities are about to take an up-swing :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The lefts and rights are different on both the 650s and the 750s and are also different between the two models. You must order for your specific machine and..side. Also know you will need some specific tools...as in larger metric sockets and torque wrench. Best have a shop/service manual as well...and your machanicical abilities are about to take an up-swing :)
hey friend, i replaced one axle on a 05 sportsman probably 8 years ago lol. cant remember how it went, what do you think of the links above does it look like theyre the right ones? theyre a little different im thinking its a drive train thing. im also going to try and taxle a diff fluid change at the same time. i think the brute will be down for a little while
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I learned long ago to never go by pictures used in ads as they are most always from stock on hand. Go by what it specifically says it is for. BTW, what makes you feel like it needs new axles, Loose CV joints?
the front left is clunking in 4wd, boot is all ripped up and i need bearings on both sides so i figured i would just tidy it up and do it all while im in there. i presume the diff fluids never been done either.
 

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the front left is clunking in 4wd, boot is all ripped up and i need bearings on both sides so i figured i would just tidy it up and do it all while im in there. i presume the diff fluids never been done either.
That's just F'n stupid of the P.O. So simple..yet so necessary. Some people just shouldn't be Off Road Vehicle owners.
 

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Nah the diffs are easy. Its just a once a year thing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hey everyone I got my parts and got going I think I may have wrecked the hub it was pretty well seized once I took the king nut and cotter pin out getting it out if it’s home wasn’t smooth. Is the stud supposed to free spin? I hope this makes sense lol. I know I marked up a couple of threads on the stud but it’s totally re useable I used to do manual and cnc machining so I can run a thread fixer up it but I can get the nut up and down with some persuasion. Here’s some pictures of how it’s going. I’m still waiting on friggen bearings so here is where I’m at.
Automotive tire Wood Grey Tints and shades Automotive wheel system

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i hope that stud isnt any weaker after taking a beating coming off. i think it was just the threads that were damaged and im pretty sure i can fix that and get it together
If not there a new one in your future. Next time..take a hammer and tap around where it fits through while suspended. Done right it will just fall off. Dennis and I have been doing it this way for years. He did a video. Jump to 9:07 or just watch it all the way.

 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
If not there a new one in your future. Next time..take a hammer and tap around where it fits through while suspended. Done right it will just fall off. Dennis and I have been doing it this way for years. He did a video. Jump to 9:07 or just watch it all the way.

right on .. yeah i took the king nut and flipped it around but i wacked the edge of it on accident instead of head on and it rolled the thread a little but the stud still looks good so i think im in the clear lol.. ill check your videos out for sure im going to be working on this thing a bunch i think lol.. the picture posted above where the axle goes into the front diff is all gunky and shit can i pick at that away or is there a seal in there to be careful of? and im assuming grease on everything with splines when it goes back together
 

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Don't do anything that can cause any of that dirt to get inside. That all should have been pressure-washed and cleaned up before disassembly. Yes there is a seal there. Clean and lube it only...and only oil the splines, no grease. Also make sure the clips on the ends.. are there. When you insert the axle, get the spline started, then slam it in cause that clip has to go all the way through the carrier and expand on the other side. It may not go all the way unless some positive force is applied.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Don't do anything that can cause any of that dirt to get inside. That all should have been pressure-washed and cleaned up before disassembly. Yes there is a seal there. Clean and lube it only...and only oil the splines, no grease. Also make sure the clips on the ends.. are there. When you insert the axle, get the spline started, then slam it in cause that clip has to go all the way through the carrier and expand on the other side. It may not go all the way unless some positive force is applied.
fun joke i got everything back together and the wheel bearing feels worse then before LOL the knuckle was in fine condition, the bearing went in like hell so im guessing i hit it too hard ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Warm the knuckle and freeze the bearing. They fall right in. If you hit it on the inner race..probably wasted it.
Hola again amigo. I got my new bearings and some pickle forks and got to work but I was apparently rough with the ball joints. Last time I installed and beat the old beating out with the knuckle still on the wheeler. This time I tried taking the whole knuckle off and the bottom stud going through the a arm was seriously stuck. Guess I was too rough. So now I need ball joints lol. Do these absolutely need to be pressed in or is I something I can get done in the shed?
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No pressing necessary..usually. Remove the clip, heat up the knuckle around the ball joint and tap straight out. Freeze the new one, clean up the knuckle, heat it back up around that same area and with a socket or something that fits the outer diameter of the ball's case, tap it straight in and re-install the clip. And no more pickle forks. They are a wedge fit so use the side tapping method for release.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
No pressing necessary..usually. Remove the clip, heat up the knuckle around the ball joint and tap straight out. Freeze the new one, clean up the knuckle, heat it back up around that same area and with a socket or something that fits the outer diameter of the ball's case, tap it straight in and re-install the clip. And no more pickle forks. They are a wedge fit so use the side tapping method for release.
roger that when i go to do the other side ill look for that other way of getting the knuckle off, the top ball joint stud just fell right off. damn bottom one was locked in.. going to order some ball joints now and imagine ill get back at it next week lol
 
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