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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I just bought this 4010 Mule off Facebook, seller said he bought it off a farmer and drug it out of the shed, put a new battery in it, washed it, and posted it. Original statement was that it was not getting enough fuel pressure, It started, ran ( but slow, as if it was starving for fuel) and goes into forward and reverse, I figured why not! lol..

STEP # 1 -I bought the service manual, read it, determined that if I dont have atleast 40PSI of pressure on the rail i will be running into issues.... so pump it was....

My DFI Indicator light will illuminate at the beginning of ignition turn on, then after 3 seconds it will turn off ( as expected) I have yet to have any light flash from that indicator light.

Fast forward 1 week, I got a fuel pump repair kit off ebay ( replacement pump and filter) to rebuild my pump, I cleaned off the top of the tank ( with a power washer, and i was very careful not to go crazy spraying by the electronics under the drivers side of the front seat), replaced the pump parts ( that was fairly easy) put it all back together, and go to start it, I have great pressure at the fuel rail now! awesome! the old filter was horrible!.... all my problems are solved... NOT

EDIT: If you are reading this for the fuel pump replacement, PLEASE read comment #7 about the fuel pump 1/2" tall "Spacer/tube" that i did not install correctly the first time... THIS WAS A MAJOR ERROR/OVERSITE ON MY PART, Dont make the same mistake i did!

Mule turns over BUT will not idle... it starts, runs for 3-5 seconds, then turns off, almost like the ECM is forcing it to turn off?

If i spray choke cleaner into the air induction tube, it will run off that until the fuel source ( choke cleaner) runs out.. which tells me that I am either not getting fuel through my injectors OR my injectors are flooding out and stuck open?

I mess around with it, I made sure that my lines were clean from the pump to the rail, everything seems to be in check, in my head there should be no reason that it doesnt start and atleast idle... but run better than it was 30 minutes before this?!?!?

Had some family stuff so I had to put this off for a couple days....I redid the carb cleaner test to confirm my plugs/wires/ and crank sensor were all still functioning, I opened the throttle and sprayed choke cleaner in, now it wont even run off of that? it acts like it is backfiring?

SO, now I am very confused... I am going through pages... I still have not indicator light showing codes on the DFI, same solid for 3 seconds at start, and immediately off, so I skip pages 3-36 through 3-39 about the self diagnostics port/ reading codes... (maybe this will bite me in the ass later.... but if its not flashing the ECM doesnt see a problem? right?

I continued on trying to "find a broken wire" It has to be some connection somewhere, a plug, a pin, or broken wire, there is no way it just broke sitting there doing nothing.... I DROVE it into my garage....

Pages 3-40 through pages 3-54 go through testing, replacing, and tracing the wires back to the ECM on the Main TPS, Sub TPS and Sub throttle Valve Actuator, I step by step go through the inspections checklist, testing each wire,I have continuity at each wire back to the ECM for both TPS's. My main TPS passes ALL the tests, my sub TPS passes resitance, and has 4.9V on the incoming wire (blue/red) HOWEVER the ground wire (brown/black) is not receiving anything from the ECM? I double checked that wires continuity to the ecm main harness, and i have a solid connection ( no broken wire) I then went through the checklist of how to test for quality ground and power TO the ECM, that passed with flying colors, everything i am reading is telling me to replace the ECM becasue it is suppose to supply me with ground but is not providing it... I tested this theory by grounding the wire to my chassis, thinking that if my TPS sensor was not being grounded, it could not return an accurate value to the ECM, and if the ECM thinks that the TPS is not working, then it will not let my Mule start.... It was a good idea... but did not work.... I was really pulling at straws there....


I am sitting at the threshold of paying $700 for a new ECU, and before doing so, I am praying that someone can chime in and let me know some tricks to test... It is not my main unit, so i can hold off for a bit getting it working... but at the same time it is in my garage taking up space.


I will include the ENTIRE 2009-2018 Kawaski Mule 4010 Trans 4X4 Service manual to try and get more people interested in this post
 

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Breathe. You’re already ahead of the game because it runs. It fires and runs, frankly. Give it a few days and see what others say. My dad was a mechanic for 50 plus years. He always told me if the thing fires and runs you’re ahead right off the bat. We had a four wheeler we bought a while back that bucked and farted and wouldn’t stay running. Drained fuel tank, cleaned and rebuilt carb, fresh fuel. Fixed. Even sitting a while like yours did, old fuel does a number on parts and pieces. You will get it. Take your time and start simple. Don’t dismantle ECM if you can avoid it. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
LOL well, thats the issue, i bought it running, replaced the pump.. it would start and idle for 3-5 seconds then die... then as i messed with it, it doesnt start/idle at all ... now it just turns over....


I am going to confirm Valve gap tonight, with how low of compression reading I had I cant imagine it would ever run.. but at the same time that was only off the starter with no oil on the rings... then maybe pump a little bit of fuel into a glass jar to see if I have a crazy amount of water in my fuel or something? Like you said, someone will chime in and be my savior!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Valve clearance is adjusted, same issue as before, turns over, no start, however I was able to get the dfi system to throw 3 codes, AND by some miracle I was able to access the self diagnostic blink codes.... 11, 12, and 13... all at one time...

A buddy said that he thought it was odd that i went from no codes at all to 3 codes all mounted to the throttle body, all at the same time... so we dug into that a little bit more, all 3 of the codes reference pin out #24 for ground, I did a continuity test AGAIN on the ground lines, and i am getting good connection back to the ECM. I redid the ECM power and ground tests, and that passes again.

I noticed when turning on the ignition now my fuel pump is not priming for the mandatory 3 second interval at start up. I hate to be the guy that just throws parts at it... BUT im going to bite the bullet and get another ECM, I need to confirm that it is not messed up... too many weird codes with good wiring, and this all goes back to cleaning under the seat before installing that pump.

In the mean time, the same buddy said i should try to go back to the factory pump ( just to see what happens) maybe there is an issue with my aftermarket pump sending surges over theground/wiring? or anything to that extent... its worth a try while i wait for the replacement ECM to come in...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So, I thought I had found the money! I found this guys video on youtube describing the EXACT issues that I was having before, wet plugs, Idles for 3-5 seconds then dies, if you even think of touching the throttle it would die, I thought for sure that when i replaced the pump I had now introduced the proper amount of fuel to the rail for it to actually run, and in turn showed a new problem with the exhaust being plugged... i did the "sparkplug removal test" ( one at a time, but i tried it with both cylinders) to no avail. But for the purpose of showing what my unit was doing in post #3, I will include the video link... especially if it helps someone out in the future that ever looks at this thread.

Side note: I could still have plugged exhaust, but I could have fried the ECM in the process of trying to do all of my diagnostic tests per the manual.... when I get my replacement ECM in, if it goes back to step #3 (starts and dies after 3-5 Seconds with wet plugs like it is flooding out) , I will be retrying this test.

Youtube video of plugged exhaust on 4010 Mule Trans4x4 Gas

here is the direct link also :
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
OK, so I am just keeping this thread alive and open at this point to document the progress, and keep ALL of my information in 1 spot. If someone is having similar issues, hopefully all of my tests will give them a decent DIY instructional.....

SO lets talk fuel, I disconnected the line at the rail, i placed a clear jar under the line, and I pumped about a 1/2 quart of gas out the fuel line into the jar, I evaluated the gas after letting it sit for an hour, there is no separation, I do not believe that there is any water in my fuel, I cannot specifically proclaim the octane level of the fuel, but there is no separation

Also, I should clarify, that when I bought the unit, it had about 1/8th tank left ( and while it was able to still run before i started messing with it) I drove it down to Caseys ( the local gas station) and topped it off with Fresh 91 octane ( supposedly)... I then drove it home, with no issues...
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I was going to replace the pump that I installed aftermarket with the one that came with the unit, I found the old one (thank goodness i didnt throw it away) and as i was holding it a plastic piece fell off onto the ground! turns out, there is a 1/2" tall tube style "spacer" on top of the fuel pump itself ( made of the exact same plastic so it blends in very well to the pump plastic) I knew that I had not installed this on my new pump, so I disassembled the pump assembly and installed that piece ( after cleaning it) to the top of the aftermarket pump..... HOLY S**** the output of the pump is strong now! I thought I had good pressure before... I have a pressure washer with gas now! there is absolutely no question if I am getting enough fuel to the rail.....so I thought, Im on a run, this is great, it turned a corner, wouldn't it be amazing if this thing just started right up!.................................................. it didnt..... BUT I have perfect fuel pressure now without question, I can 100% put the fuel pump to bed.

SO moral of the story with this one, is DONT throw anything away until you are 100% sure you are ready to go... I am still tracking down the "NO START" issue, but the replacement ECM is suppose to be here today, I will keep this thread going until it is running.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Follow up, I have installed the replacement ECM, I now only have 1 code ( code 11) from the blink codes. I replaced the entire throttle body with a used system that was supposedly tested good ( off ebay), it came with all of the sensors except for the sub throttle valve actuator. I reused this actuator on the replacement, and still have Code 11, I am going to RECHECK all of my sensors to confirm that each sensor that came with the throttle body is functioning within specs. If all of my sensors/sub throttle actuator check out, AND I have continuity to the ecm by back probing, I will have no other option but to bring it to the dealership... wait the month for them to check into it... and spend even more money on it... This is a disaster
 

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davidson310-

One other thing to check, and you probably have by now -clean your battery terminals and the 5 connectors, 3 for positive, two for negative.

I did this on my 4010 and got a different ECM response... The connectors were not corroded but they weren't copper-shiny either.

Best of luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
davidson310-

One other thing to check, and you probably have by now -clean your battery terminals and the 5 connectors, 3 for positive, two for negative.

I did this on my 4010 and got a different ECM response... The connectors were not corroded but they weren't copper-shiny either.

Best of luck.
I did not try that, there wasnt any corrosion on the battery or anything that i was seeing, but this would have been a good check.... I just dropped off the unit at the dealer this AM... Im hoping they tell me it is a simple wiring issue/broken wire/corroded connector/ something to that extent... we will see... thanks for the heads up on that tho
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
ok so update, they have had it for a month now, he did all of the same test that i did above.


He replaced the spark plugs and now it idles, on the front cylinder only, and still no ground coming from pin 24 to the sensors. and has a code indicating the throttle body sensors.

He didnt trust my ECM, so he bought a new one from the factory, no change.

He then tested the wiring, and has good continuity like what I Confirmed, but he replaced the main harness because the pin on the fuel pump was not perfect ( he was able to twist the connector at the ecm and have the pump turn on and off) and he didnt know if that was happening on other pins. no change.

He is now Testing the sub harness that connects to all of the sensors on the motor/ the coils/ the injectors, he was going to utilize a couple of jumpers to try and eliminate the secondary rear harness as the problem, if he can get it to run well and /or find problem wires, he will replace that harness also... We are very close to having replaced everything possible on this mule....

His next thing is possibly the throttle body, but I am praying that the sub harness is /was the issue the entire time. The throttle body would be a very expensive repair for me, especially if the first one wasn't bad in the first place, i replaced it with one from ebay already... and now were looking at buying another... what a cluster F***
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
It runs, basically he replaced the main harness, then after that he retested the throttle body sensor, they NOW fail the test!?!? after they failed he replaced both with new and it runs ... WTF.... $2300 and a month later, after doing all the same tests. he almost quit on the job also...
 

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I have a 2014 4010 Trans4x4 that does this same thing! Cranks right up, but then 'might' die on idle. I live on a huge place so I baby the throttle to keep it going until I get into gear. After it has run for ten or more minutes, it's good for the day! This is a daily driver for me on my ranch and I am the original owner. Now the EPS light comes on and the power steering goes out at random times. Oy! Thanks for the manual....
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I have a 2014 4010 Trans4x4 that does this same thing! Cranks right up, but then 'might' die on idle. I live on a huge place so I baby the throttle to keep it going until I get into gear. After it has run for ten or more minutes, it's good for the day! This is a daily driver for me on my ranch and I am the original owner. Now the EPS light comes on and the power steering goes out at random times. Oy! Thanks for the manual....
No problem, hopefully it is a cheaper and faster repair than what I had...
 
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