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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This past spring ATV seemed to be in limp mode, had no power, was backfiring and 4 wd was not working. Brought it into a shop which turned out to be an awful experience. Below is what was found. Help please!

FI self test, code 11 came up throttle position sensor performing tests and checks on sensor, there is correct voltage at power supply to ECM per manual, all throttle position sensor checks passed. Manual says to replace ECM. Replaced ECM and still not functioning. Found tip over sensor knocked over, got that back in place and running fine now but still some backfiring on deceleration and no 4 wd. tested switch for 2wd/4wd, found continuity on switch when appropriate but the resistance is at 80k ohms spec is near 0. Replaced switch but still didn’t work and got the same results as before. Both brake and 2 wd/4 wd actuator test good. actuator controller speed sensor input voltage is good, however output voltage from actuator to speed sensor is not, should be around 5 volts, found 396 mV which is severely out of range. checked controller for output voltage to switch and found voltage double of spec, just over 10 volts at switch connector. Actuator controller was replaced but still no 4 wd. checked controller for output voltage to switch and found voltage double of spec, just over 10 volts at switch connector. controller is producing voltage to speed sensor now. performed wire checks through to the forward/reverse sensor, speed sensor, switch, actuator, etc... only voltage or resistance measurement which is out of spec now is the voltage to switch. all else is checking good. with both controller plugged in, resistance reading on green wire reaches 218k ohms, thats 218000 ohms of resistance in wiring. based on reading found on wire, this machine needs a wire harness

It seemed like I was getting the run around from this shop and they had the ATV for 3 months at this point and several thousand in repair so far with no fix. I took the ATV back and they pulled off the ECM and Actuator controller. This ATV was purchased from another party and had several wires spliced improperly, so I figured maybe it was a wiring issue. I Replaced the wiring harness, unfortunately still no 4 wd. I then replaced the Actuator controller and still nothing. It didn’t seem like the ECM had any result so I didn’t replace that. Is it possible there was a short somewhere that fried both the actuator controller and the ECM? Only thing I noted that was potentially an issue with the ECM was the speed sensor error, but could have that just been due to the tip over sensor being knocked over? Don’t want to keep throwing money at this thing. Strange thing is the engine brake is working fine so doesn’t seem like the actuator controller was even bad? Also, I was not getting the flashing of the 2wd/4wd like it says you should in manual if there is an issue with the actuator or controller. I could just bypass the electrical component of the 4 wd and install a manual Sgori actuator but not sure if that’s the right thing to do if there is other issues with the ECM and or the Actuator controller.. Could either of those be causing the backfiring issue?
 
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Being that you replaced the ECM, there has to be something wrong with something else in the 4WD system. First, I would jack the vehicle up and remove your 4WD actuator. Then, move the block inside the differential to the 2WD/4WD positions by hand. You might have to rotate the wheels slightly while trying to shift so that the gears inside the differential line up. If you are still not able to shift between 2WD/4WD, there must be be something wrong inside the differential. However, if you are able to shift between 2WD/4WD by hand, the problem is probably a bad switch, speed sensor, actuator, or anything in between. If this is the case, our manual conversion kits will fix your issue. Kawasaki Brute Force - Prairie Products If you have any questions about any of the kits, please let us know. We are always happy to help!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks, to be clear the ECM was replaced prior to the wiring harness replacement. When I took the ATV back the shop pulled off the ECM and the actuator controller and put the old ones back on. I redid the wiring harness and put a new actuator controller on but did not get a new ECM. That didn't do the trick either, so I pulled the 2wd/4 wd actuator off the ATV and disconnected it from the harness and pushed wires in the positive and negative and touched it to a 12 volt battery and got nothing. Based on that I assume the actuator is bad, but just don't understand how all of these things would have failed at once. If the shop was correct in their diagnosis, both the ECM and actuator controller, the wiring harness and now it appears the actuator itself is toast too?? I will likely just get the manual actuator you are referring too, I guess my concern is do I still need to replace the ECM and actuator controller? Does the speed sensor and whatever other errors those are throwing affect anything else or am I fine leaving those and just going to a manual actuator?
 
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A bad ECU or 4WD control box will definitely still give you 4x4 issues even with our kit installed. It's not common with most of our customers, but sometimes they do go bad. So yes, I would make sure those are in good working condition first. Once those are good, our manual kits will be the final fix.
 
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