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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Problems started when I was trying to start in the cold. Engine was cranking fine then stopped with only the starter motor running and no sound of the engine cranking. It was -20c at the time so pulled the UTV into my workshop to give it a good warm up and try it again. After a few hours with the Herman Nelson and the shed like a sauna I tried again. Same spooling sound from the starter on the engine. Recharged the battery which is good and tried the engine with the plug out. It was willing to crank but if you put a finger over the plug hole it lost compression and the starter spooled. I pulled the cam cover and checked the decompressor, it was fine and working okay. I then pulled the starter and it was fine too. This now leads me to suspect that there is an issue with the starter drive train, from what I can see there is a clutch assembly that can stick or cause problems ( based on research in this forum)
I need to know how easy is this to get at, can I access this in frame? Any quality advice would be a great help.
I am 20miles from the Arctic Circle in Northern Canada (remote) so taking it to a dealer is out of the question. I have a pretty well tooled workshop and am up to the job. Just need some pointers before starting, unless someone has a miraculous cure to my issue. Other info the machine only has 300km on it and looks like new. Pretty frustrating, maybe try Can Am next time!
 

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Not sure about the Mule but normally one has to remove the stator cover and flywheel..which takes a special puller. If it were me I would pull the stator cover (drain the oil first), then hit the starter and watch it. If the starter motor turns all the other gears but not the crankshaft...that's your problem. If so also inspect the contact area on the flywheel for damage from skidding. Bad idea to put a new oneway on a bad surface.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Not sure about the Mule but normally one has to remove the stator cover and flywheel..which takes a special puller. If it were me I would pull the stator cover (drain the oil first), then hit the starter and watch it. If the starter motor turns all the other gears but not the crankshaft...that's your problem. If so also inspect the contact area on the flywheel for damage from skidding. Bad idea to put a new oneway on a bad surface.
Thanks, I was scoping it out this morning and all set to go. Oil drained and ready to pull the covers. If I can avoid draining the anti freeze I will be happy might drop the belly pan cover for bottom access. Looks pretty simple and will make life easier.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Done several times also managed to blow the solenoid in the process. Now have everything removed and just trying to figure out how to get the stator cover off. All bolts out just wondering if it’s tight or I’ve missed something
 

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Done several times also managed to blow the solenoid in the process. Now have everything removed and just trying to figure out how to get the stator cover off. All bolts out just wondering if it’s tight or I’ve missed something
If you don't have one already...really need to get the shop/service manual. Can find online and download.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
If you don't have one already...really need to get the shop/service manual. Can find online and download.
Got the manual and have everything off but struggling getting the stator magnet off, broke my puller ! I got a 38mm centre threaded puller but it didn’t fit, now trying a Kawa 38 mm puller just ordered… was a 1.5 thread all looked good but just wouldn’t go on! My lathe isn’t set up for metric threads or I would have made one up! Getting frustrated!
Here is hoping the puller is right, I might try cleaning the torque limiter as it seems to be the main drive to the crank, not sure what that one way clutch does. Wish I could just pull it into the dealer!
 

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Got the manual and have everything off but struggling getting the stator magnet off, broke my puller ! I got a 38mm centre threaded puller but it didn’t fit, now trying a Kawa 38 mm puller just ordered… was a 1.5 thread all looked good but just wouldn’t go on! My lathe isn’t set up for metric threads or I would have made one up! Getting frustrated!
Here is hoping the puller is right, I might try cleaning the torque limiter as it seems to be the main drive to the crank, not sure what that one way clutch does. Wish I could just pull it into the dealer!
I under stand your frustration, I work at a small dealer and just had the same thing going on serves manual said to use a 2 jaw puller, I tried with no luck, faintly had to call the teck line. Turns you need Kawasaki tool # T57001-1883 to pull the flywheel, also its not the one way bearing that goes bad, its the shaft-assy redution gear part # 13310-y002 . hopefully that helps with your repair.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I under stand your frustration, I work at a small dealer and just had the same thing going on serves manual said to use a 2 jaw puller, I tried with no luck, faintly had to call the teck line. Turns you need Kawasaki tool # T57001-1883 to pull the flywheel, also its not the one way bearing that goes bad, its the shaft-assy redution gear part # 13310-y002 . hopefully that helps with your repair.
Awesome that’s the info I’m looking for!
Fortunately we are still sledding so not too desperate as of yet!
many thanks! Don.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I under stand your frustration, I work at a small dealer and just had the same thing going on serves manual said to use a 2 jaw puller, I tried with no luck, faintly had to call the teck line. Turns you need Kawasaki tool # T57001-1883 to pull the flywheel, also its not the one way bearing that goes bad, its the shaft-assy redution gear part # 13310-y002 . hopefully that helps with your repair.
Just a couple question is there an easy way or trick to getting the reduction gear back in without pulling the magnet? It fell out no problems but is much trickier to get back in. I cleaned the original with detergent and hot water, the plates looked okay and was going to try it back in.
What is the failure issue with that part? The plates didn’t look glazed or damaged but obviously it wasn’t working.
I managed to blow my old three jaw puller on the magnet! Hasn’t failed me in 20yrs but this broke one of the arms, went off like a shotgun, scared the hell out of me and the flying part hit my hand making a sizeable hole!
I’ve contacted the closest dealer for both the parts you suggested but due to the distance we are north it may take a while.
 

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I think there is just not enough springs pressure on the plats in the reduction gear. The one I have apart you can get to spin in your hand if you really try, and was beaking free when the motor was at the compression stroke. You could play with the starter, try starting a bunch of times and have it work 1 out of 10 trys. I wouldn't think that even needs a clutched gear as long as the one way bearing is working. But I didn't design the thing I just work on them. I would bet if it was one sold piece it would be fine just like most starter reduction gears. As for trying to put the gear back in without pulling the flywheel, I am not sure, I am sure you could get it back in there without because I also pulled this one without the flywheel out. But I am sure getting it back in there and lining everything up would not be as easy. Also I will let you know the size and if there is anything special about the puller and parts whenever I get them, maybe there will be a aftermarket solution you can get faster.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I think there is just not enough springs pressure on the plats in the reduction gear. The one I have apart you can get to spin in your hand if you really try, and was beaking free when the motor was at the compression stroke. You could play with the starter, try starting a bunch of times and have it work 1 out of 10 trys. I wouldn't think that even needs a clutched gear as long as the one way bearing is working. But I didn't design the thing I just work on them. I would bet if it was one sold piece it would be fine just like most starter reduction gears. As for trying to put the gear back in without pulling the flywheel, I am not sure, I am sure you could get it back in there without because I also pulled this one without the flywheel out. But I am sure getting it back in there and lining everything up would not be as easy. Also I will let you know the size and if there is anything special about the puller and parts whenever I get them, maybe there will be a aftermarket solution you can get faster.
Thanks,
You’ve been the best help, I talked with parts in the dealership in Ottawa and they don’t know anything! They are still recommending a two arm puller and a clutch holder!
I agree with your diagnosis of the issue, I noticed that it was easy to turn in my hand which seemed odd. Parts hopefully on the way and hope it all works out. Many thanks again nice to speak to someone with hands on experience of the issue.
Don.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Good news, the correct parts and puller arrived from Country Cat and everything fell together, reasonably easily. Turn the key and it started 1st turn.
Filled with coolant and oil change to 0w 20 full synthetic for our still Arctic climate at the moment, it will get an oil change in summer for the summer months.
it’s running and I’m mobile again.😆
 

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Good news, the correct parts and puller arrived from Country Cat and everything fell together, reasonably easily. Turn the key and it started 1st turn.
Filled with coolant and oil change to 0w 20 full synthetic for our still Arctic climate at the moment, it will get an oil change in summer for the summer months.
it’s running and I’m mobile again.😆
I'm having the same issue with 2020 Pro MX. I've drained the coolant and oil and have removed all of the bolts. The cover is loose but will not come off. If you don't mind, how did you get the 19 mm nut off of the shaft to remove the cover?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I'm having the same issue with 2020 Pro MX. I've drained the coolant and oil and have removed all of the bolts. The cover is loose but will not come off. If you don't mind, how did you get the 19 mm nut off of the shaft to remove the cover?

It’s a little Northern trick but you have to be careful. Get a length of 1/4 in cord preferably not nylon, clothes rope or something similar. Remove the spark plug and feed a couple of feet of the cord into the cylinder head . Crank the shaft till it locks against the rope and the inside of the cylinder head.
I’m sure someone will advise against it but it works, same process for tightening the nut. Beats taking the whole engine apart. It can also be done without removing the magneto. Bit fiddly but if you pull the starter back you get enough room. Hope this helps. The new starter part seems much stronger and is working a charm! But I’m not gonna try starting it at -25c again!
 
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