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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, I am new to this forum. My recently acquired 2009 4010 Gas Mule has always started easily and ran fine. The other morning I went to start it but when I turned the key to the first position I did not hear the buzzing sound (the fuel pump I have always assumed) I normally hear. It surprised me not do hear it but did not surprise me that it did not start. I am not overly familiar with these rigs but generally fix things myself. I did check the fuses I could find (two boxes under the seat with 4 spaces in each and fuses in 3 spaces and one space empty in both) and the connections at the injector air inlet portion. Now fuses were blown and all wire connections looked good.

Am I correct in thinking that when I turn the key to the first position what I have been hearing and should hear is a buzzing sound and that is the fuel pump? If not, then what is that sound? Assuming it is, then for some reason mine is not coming on. I have done some reading and I gather it could be a number of things; fuse, fuel pump relay, fuel pump, broken wire to the ignitor (I guess, because of poor routing that happens on some models).

We keep it at our lake house so hope to figure it out when I go down later this week. Since the fuses were all good I suspect it's either the fuel pump relay or the fuel pump. I am thinking I will start at the fuel pump and use my meter to see if there is power to it when I turn the key on. What I am not sure of is, should there be and how many volts? My guess is that there should be (since I've always heard what I think is the fuel pump come on when I turn the key on) and it should be 12 volts. Is that correct? From there, if there is power to that connector I can probably assume it's the fuel pump. If there is not power to that connector then I would have to guess it's the relay. Any suggestions on the best way to test the relay with my meter? If it's not that then I will pull the fly wheel cover and check the wiring to the ignitor. I haven't looked that closely at this thing and can even say for sure where the flywheel is but assume it must be on the passenger side of the engine. Is it difficult to get to and to remove that cover?

I have read that the ignitor sends a signal to the fuel pump "to pump" when the engine is running. This has me a little confused in that mine always runs when I turn the key on and, being fuel injected, it seems it kinda has to on start up (to build up some pressure to inject to start). Anyone have any input on just how this works. I would guess that initial key on it runs for a period of time then stops if the engine has started and from that point the engine has to be running for the pump to run. Or something along those lines. I guess I need to know that so I know, when doing my testing, if the pump should actually have power when I test it.

Lastly, anyone have a suggestion on a good service manual for these? I have read that the Kawasaki manual is ok but expensive (which is fine if it's good) and you have to buy two (not sure why that would be - maybe one engine and one chassis?) and I also read one post where a guy said he preferred the good after market manuals for them but he didn't say what that was. I can see that there is not particularly vibrant Forum activity on these and having a good manual might make being a Mule owner and lot more pleasurable (although it's been pretty pleasurable so far :0) ).

Sorry for how long this is but wanted to try to be fairly clear. Any input or thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
 

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I agree, start by checking for power to the fuel pump. It will be same as battery 12v, maybe 12.X, could even be lower if your battery is low. If you have power, next check the ground connection. If that's good, it's the fuel pump. See my last paragraph.
If no power, next would be look for chewed wires, disconnected connector(s).
For the relay; I ASSUME it will be a 5 terminal relay. The relay MAY have a wiring diagram printed on it. If not, terminals 85 & 86 are the coil that operates the "switch" inside the relay. Terminal 30 is incoming power, check the connector (assuming the relay plugs into a connector) for 12volts, key ON. Terminals 87 & 87A are the terminals terminal 30 switches to. 87 is NO (Normally Open), 87A is NC (Normally Closed). You could put a jumper wire in the relay connector 30 to 87 and see if you have 12v at the fuel pump.
If you need to ID the terminals, with three terminals vertical and two horizonal. the first and last vertical are 85 & 86 to the coil. The middle vertical is 30. The two horizonal will be above (or below, depending how you look at it) are 87 & 87A. 87A will be closest to 30.
I have no clue about the ignitor and how it works for the fuel pump. :unsure: :whistle:o_O

On my 1996 Mule 2510, when I had fuel pump problems, I had 12v to the fuel pump, but no output. Next I checked the ground, it was good. So I WACKED the fuel pump with a small hammer. That jarred the brushes and it started working!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the detailed and informative reply Zebra. So, in your opinion, when I turn the key to position one I should be hearing (the buzzing sound) and what I have heard in the past is indeed the fuel pump running, correct? The only reason I ask that is because what I read with regard to the ignitor sounded like the fuel pump only can run when the starter is engaged or the engine is running (I'm guessing that means flywheel spinning). If that is accurate then I'm not clear what I was hearing when I would turn the key on - only thing I could think of was the fuel pump. So, if anyone knows if the fuel pump should start when you turn the key on on one of these would appreciate hearing how that works

Your description of how to identify the terminals is a bit over my head. Looking at one online it looks like there are three wires going into the relay (BL, BK/WT, BK/BL). I guess I will have to look at the relay when I'm at the lake next and see if I can figure it out.

The one thing I had not thought of is the ground from the fuel pump. That actually sounds like something that might make sense and will definitely check that.
 

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My 1996 2510 has been gone too long for me to remember if the fuel pump made any sound. Also not the same model. My wife would tell you I couldn't hear it anyway.

I am not sure how many wires your relay will have. 5 wire is most common, that's why I referenced it. Can you post the relay you found online? 3 wires does not sound like a relay.

Last, my 1996 Mule had a carb. Does yours? Or EFI?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Mine is EFI. In my online searches I ran across an old "justanswers" thread, where a professional (a Kawasaki mechanic in this case) answers questions and helps you fix something for a fee. In that thread the mechanic posted a wiring diagram of the fuel pump relay which is where I got my info. In looking back at it the diagram says it's for a 3010 mule (mine is a 4010). It's odd that I really can't find any pictures of the relay that is called for on a 2009 4010 Mule. I will try to attach the diagram.

I think what I will need to do is take a much closer look at it when I am next at the lake and gather some more data and then revisit this post. If, in the meantime, someone can tell me what I should expect to hear when I turn the key to position 1 I would appreciate it. It's always buzzed and sounded like a fuel pump building pressure and, when it didn't start I also did not hear that sound (or any other).

76290
 

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I've NOT seen a relay like that. Internally it looks like it has three diodes and the are arranged so current can go to the ignitor, not from the ignitor to the fuel pump.
With EFI your fuel pump will be in the fuel tank. My carbed 1996, the fuel pump was external, sorry to lead you astray.
Looking in "Parts" there are TWO 2009 models kaf620R9f and kaf620S9f. I am not sure what the "R" or "S" mean, or which you have.
Here is a drawing from parts. It lists TWO relays, but only show ONE??? :unsure:
See if you can find the fuel pump relay and if wires, number/color match what you posted. It looks like the relay will be left of the fuel tank, near the battery.
4010fuelrelay.JPG
 

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In parts, electrical, it shows two relays, with different P/Ns and prices.
I ASSUME 27002A is fuel pump relay. It's not listed or priced in this drawing :unsure::unsure:
They do not ID relay P/N 27002, but it has different P/N and price
4010relays.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
That's helpful information. It is my understanding from reading various posts that a pulse signal is sent from the igniter to the relay which energizes it (or allows it to be energized?) so, this being EFI, if the engine stops the fuel pump stops too. Which makes sense. I am not sure how to read the diagram, it's been a long time and I'm not sure what the box in front of the diode as opposed to just a line means. It looks like there is no way for power to ever get to the fuel pump when I look at it so I must be seeing it wrong. Part of what confuses me is why I used to hear a buzz when I turned the key on, kind of like my turbo diesel truck, but don't now.
One other thing that I ran across was a thread on EFI mule fuel pumps not coming on if the battery is not fully charged. I didn't mention this in my first post because I didn't think it was important. We had left the lights on the mule on the night before. But, the battery wasn't dead, didn't even seem low, it turned the engine over fine. So I assumed the light switch had some sort of protection timer on it. In spite of it turning over the engine fine and being at a loss of what else to do, I did throw my battery charger on it and after a fairly short period it said it was fully charged (old charger that has a light come on when charged, not sure how accurate it is). So, now I wonder if I need to try charging the battery with a better charger and see if that might be my problem. The timing of things would make sense, having left the lights on.

Zebra, I did read your info on the relay again and will try to test that when I next get to the lake, hopefully early next week sometime. I have limited internet when there but generally can get online so will try to post what I find from there. Ideally I'd like to first somehow put power to the fuel pump to make sure it works and then assess the relay. Assuming charging the battery doesn't miraculously fix it (pretty sure it won't).
I appreciate the info on the relay and the fuel pump. I guess if I figure out it's the relay then I'll have to figure out which exact model I have and which relay I need.

Thanks for the input!
 

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My info on a relay was for a "normal" 5 terminal relay, no diodes inside.
Confirm if it's 3 wire like the schematic you posted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yes, I will gather more info for sure and try to get the numbers off the relay (if any), number of wires and colors. Thanks, J, I agree that is the best starting point and will do that. I hope to go down tomorrow but, as per normal, family has a lot of things they want me to do here. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
So, I am at the lake and getting started on the ol Mule. The relay is Denso 058700-400. There are 4 wires going into the connector - Black Yellow (I gather ground), Black Blue (I think power to the fuel pump), Blue, Blue Red. The Blue and Blue/Red must be to and from the ignitor.

What Jeremy suggested was a good idea and I tried that, power to the Black/Blue wire. I used my meter lead with one end on the positive terminal of the battery and touched the the other end to the connector end where the relay would plug into the Black/Blue wire. Nothing. So I checked for continuity from the relay plug to the fuel pump plug for the Black/Yellow and Black/Blue wires. No continuity for the Black/Blue wire (from the relay connector to the fuel pump connector) but do have continuity for the Black/yellow wire (from the relay connector to the fuel pump connector) . I also have continuity between the Black/Yellow and Blue flat pins in the relay connector so, I guess, in their current switched state the blue wire is grounded. I have tried briefly to track down the Blue and Blue red wires but no luck so far. I thought I would throw this up on the board and see if anyone brighter than I has any salient input. I'm going to go out and try to track down where the blue and blue/red wire go, I am guessing to the igniter under the flywheel cover but not real easy to get to.

Hope this isn't too convoluted. Any input would be appreciated. Oh yeah, and I fully charged the battery and, of course, that didn't fix it. :oops:l (what's up with that???????)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I just went out and jumped directly from the battery to fuel pump and I could hear it pump so that eliminates the fuel pump itself. Likely the relay unless there is a fuse somewhere I don't know about. As far as fuses go all I see are two boxes under the seat, 4 spaces in each with only 3 utilized and all are good. One has two 10amp and one 30 amp and the other has two 20 amp and one 30 amp. I'm not sure how I would go about checking the relay?
 

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With no continuity from the Black/Blue wires (relay to fuel pump) I suspect a break in this wire OR this is not the fuel pump relay you found.
I ASSUME a 4 terminal relay would have coil wired internally to two of the terminals. The other two terminals would be switched together by the coil being energized.
Since Black/Yellow is the color Kawasaki uses for ground, I would ASSUME this goes to one of the coil ends of the relay. Use your Ohm meter (set on Ohms) and see if you get a reading from the terminal of the relay the black/yellow wire connected to.

What I would really like to see is a Kawasaki wiring diagram for this machine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
There is continuity between the Black/Yellow and Black/Blue blades of the relay - 92.2 Ohms. No continuity between any combination of any of the other blades.

I did pull the flywheel cover to see if there was any wires running to the igniter/pickup. There were two, none the color of any of the wires running to what I believe is the fuel pump relay. There was a blue wire connected to a sensor/switch just under the front coil that is threaded into the block.

I too wish I had a wiring diagram (although not sure how much good it would do me) and would like to know exactly how this particular mule lets the fuel pump know when the engine is or is not running. I did run across another tidbit last night that was in an article discussing a gas mule 4010 that was fuel injected that mentioned that the fuel pump comes on for 3 seconds when the ignition is turned on and then off unless the engine is running. It was not clear if that was in reference to the mule in the article or more a generic comment but it is consistent with what happened before this problem cropped up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
In my above post, I referenced a "blue" wire to a sensor/going into the block just below the front coil, that wire is actually Blue/red. I just checked again for continuity of the Black/blue wire that is at the plug for the relay and the plug at the fuel pump and there is none. The relay I think is the fuel pump relay is under the seat mounted to the frame just behind the battery. There are 3 relays there, this one, another just like with but, of course, with different color wires and the 3rd one is a bit larger. The reason I think this one is the fuel pump relay is it is the only one that has a wire connected to it the same color (Black/blue) as the power to the fuel pump connector. If I had to guess I would think the other smaller relay is for the lights and the larger one is for the Electric Power Steering. I don't know that there is a relay for the lights but assume there is. In my readings there is quite a few references to the EPS relay but have found nothing about it's location and assume all the relays are grouped there. Yep, ... that's a lot of assuming.

Since the one other realy is the same, in a frustrated "what the hell" moment" last night, I switched them. It did not change or fix anything. The other odd thing is, while the battery is fully charged and the engine turns over fine, my headlights don't/won't come on either. I am here and haven't figured out how to tell if I have spark. I've tried taking the front plug out but can barely see it when I turn the key and can't tell if it's sparking or not.

It almost feels like there is a switch or sensor (like my tractor has if the pto is engaged or it's in gear) that won't let things run if it's not closed. It ran great, we took a long drive, parked it just after dark and then, the next morning, no fuel pump, no lights (I think I had left the lights on when we stopped the night before but the battery wasn't dead and they weren't lit up). Not sure that has anything to do with it or not.
 

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How did you check the fuses? Visual? Or a test light?
One place you said you have continuity Blue relay terminal to Black/Yellow relay terminal.
Another you said Black/Blue to Black/Yellow.
I am guessing one of these pairs is the coil inside the relay. And other two connect when coil is energized.
Parts says TWO fuel pump relays, but only shows one.???

You mentioned a sensor not letting it run, usually they stop the spark, but there could be a low oil sensor/shutoff.
With the relay removed, do you have 12v at any of the terminals of the relay connector? Check Key ON, Key turned to START.
The other relays could be for a lot of things, starter motor, fan motor, PS,
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Well, I figured it out. It seemed like everything that was suppose to work when the key was turned to "on" didn't work - lights, heater fan, fuel pump, spark and windshield wiper. So I decided it had to have something to do with that. All fuses were good so the next thing I considered was the ignition switch itself. Maybe the contact to spin the starter was good but contact to power everything else including the ECU was suspect. I pulled out the ignition switch and low and behold the brown wire connection had clearly gotten hot and the plastic had deformed ever so slightly. I scraped it with small screwdriver, plugged it back in and everything worked. Fired right up, lights work, heater fan, windshield wiper.

Halleluiah!!

When I got this thing it needed an ignition switch and I bought an after market one off the internet. My guess is the blade contact on the brown wire was not great but not normally not a problem without the lights on. But after running it for quite a while (almost never have used the lights) it with the lights on it heated up and slightly melted and deformed just enough that, after cooling, it not longer made contact. Probably my bad for getting an after market one but the OEM ones are such a rip off (IMHO). I'll clean this one up for the near term and order an new one (probably won't use the lights til I get the new one in).

Thanks for all the input guys any Zebra in particular (for stickng with me), really helpful!

Now it's on to the projects I should be doing! :oops:
 
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