If so, I have an EFI question on the KFX 450R
Background:
Bike never had a smooth idle
Bike stalls out super easy
Bike is an absolute stall queen
Stalls easy at take-off, or slow or technical speeds
Stalls with no warning, like an ignition cut at times
IT IS NOT ME!!!
Idle got way worse... to the point of unreal terrible.
I crawled the bike over at home and checked all a guy can check at home.
(can't fully test temp or pressure related stuff at home)
Items found:
Plug looked rich (replaced)
Crank sensor did not ohm out in range (resistance too low)
At this point I took the bike to the shop. They crawled it too, and exhausted everything... to the point they gave up, put it back together... and the problem seemed pretty much solved by accident. Still real weak off the bottom and idle still not perfect... but enough better I was really happy.
It was assumed to be a bad connection.
Bad connection at the crank sensor inside the case? (I don't know)
Crank sensor did ohm out in range when I brought it home.
Now:
After bringing home, in time it has slowly degraded. It's a stall queen again, but not back to idling as bad as before.
Since I have tried dropping a tooth in front... makes it stronger of course, but it's still a stall queen, and the lower gearing only magnifies the fact there is a problem... and magnifies the sense that it's like an ignition cut.
Adding a pipe and removing the air box lid seems to help it a lot. But I am not sure if that is purely from power gain, or if it is more about an improved air/fuel ratio. The plug still looks on the rich side.
I have crawled it again, and again I find that the crank sensor does not ohm out in range. In fact the resistance is lower than before. I've checked it several times, and have found it barely in range once when checking hot? Dunno why that would happen.
Theory:
I assume the crank sensor is bad, or has bad wiring or connection. With that I am GUESSING that possibly the ECU is reading a faulty signal from the crank sensor and incorrectly adjusting ignition timing and fuel metering.... and maybe crank sensor sometimes fails to send a signal or the 22 pulses the ECU expects, which would cut ignition.
Am I way off base here?
There is not much left right?....
One of those sensors I can't test (already shop tested though) or a faulty ECU... Right????
Everything else checks out...
Roll sensor zip tied in place
Grounds look good
TPS
Coil
Rectifier
Injector
Etc
It all seems to spec out...
I'd just like to have a more solid understanding before I take it back in a second time. I know there will be some reluctance to change a crank sensor under warranty since it requires a complete stator assembly. I don't want to return it with the same suggested problem again if it is not the problem... or cause a claim that doesn't get me fixed. All I want is to get whatever the problem is FIXED.
Background:
Bike never had a smooth idle
Bike stalls out super easy
Bike is an absolute stall queen
Stalls easy at take-off, or slow or technical speeds
Stalls with no warning, like an ignition cut at times
IT IS NOT ME!!!
Idle got way worse... to the point of unreal terrible.
I crawled the bike over at home and checked all a guy can check at home.
(can't fully test temp or pressure related stuff at home)
Items found:
Plug looked rich (replaced)
Crank sensor did not ohm out in range (resistance too low)
At this point I took the bike to the shop. They crawled it too, and exhausted everything... to the point they gave up, put it back together... and the problem seemed pretty much solved by accident. Still real weak off the bottom and idle still not perfect... but enough better I was really happy.
It was assumed to be a bad connection.
Bad connection at the crank sensor inside the case? (I don't know)
Crank sensor did ohm out in range when I brought it home.
Now:
After bringing home, in time it has slowly degraded. It's a stall queen again, but not back to idling as bad as before.
Since I have tried dropping a tooth in front... makes it stronger of course, but it's still a stall queen, and the lower gearing only magnifies the fact there is a problem... and magnifies the sense that it's like an ignition cut.
Adding a pipe and removing the air box lid seems to help it a lot. But I am not sure if that is purely from power gain, or if it is more about an improved air/fuel ratio. The plug still looks on the rich side.
I have crawled it again, and again I find that the crank sensor does not ohm out in range. In fact the resistance is lower than before. I've checked it several times, and have found it barely in range once when checking hot? Dunno why that would happen.
Theory:
I assume the crank sensor is bad, or has bad wiring or connection. With that I am GUESSING that possibly the ECU is reading a faulty signal from the crank sensor and incorrectly adjusting ignition timing and fuel metering.... and maybe crank sensor sometimes fails to send a signal or the 22 pulses the ECU expects, which would cut ignition.
Am I way off base here?
There is not much left right?....
One of those sensors I can't test (already shop tested though) or a faulty ECU... Right????
Everything else checks out...
Roll sensor zip tied in place
Grounds look good
TPS
Coil
Rectifier
Injector
Etc
It all seems to spec out...
I'd just like to have a more solid understanding before I take it back in a second time. I know there will be some reluctance to change a crank sensor under warranty since it requires a complete stator assembly. I don't want to return it with the same suggested problem again if it is not the problem... or cause a claim that doesn't get me fixed. All I want is to get whatever the problem is FIXED.