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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have 4 ITP C series type 5 wheels...
They were on the bike when I bought it...
3 of the tires leak badly @ the bead seat...
All 4 wheels have bends/gouges/cuts where the leaks are...
The wheels don't wobble or hop...
The damage is only on the wheel edges... inside and out...
I was going to dismount the tires and try to repair/straighten the wheel edges so the tire beads would seat properly...
but I thought I might ask if anyone knows of a company that will repair/straighten the wheels professionally...
so I don't have to keep mounting and dismounting the tires to see if I have fixed the problem.
Ed3:D
 

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Ed the c series aren't that strong you are better off just getting a set of t-9 baja's. You could probably get the other ones fixed but they are just going to bend again.
 

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Leave the tires on. Use a piece of good wood, cut it, grind it into the shape you want, then get a BFH (Big F'n Hammer) and slowly work the bends out. Take your time. You don't want to beat the rim to death and go too far the wrong way. If the wood splits, get a new peice and repeat.

Work on getting the dents out and test the tire seal along the way.
 

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yeah i agree there a weak wheel ive had 3 sets and ur a big dude on a big bike save ur cash and buy some good ones
 

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Like rpm said use a piece of wood, start at the outsides of the dent and work towards the centre. They will probably crack though where they are cast aluminum. Probably better off saving for a better set of rims.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Thanks guys...I'll work on em with the wood block method like RPM explained...
If I can't get them to hold air, I'll prolly slime em...
cause from what I'm hearing they're not a very good wheel as far as strength goes...
I HATE sliming tires cause it pretty much ruins everything inside the tire...
and it usually does't work on the bead seat area...
but it sounds like as stylish as I think the C series are...they're not worth much more than spares...
Other than the T-9's do you have any suggestion for me as far as strength goes?
The T-9 baja's are nice...is that what you run privnut?
I guess everyone has so many wheel&tire combos it's impossible to put em in your sig...
I'm not a big bling guy but a nice set of aluminum wheels are a must...
even for a bike that will prolly NEVER get a wash & wax...
I'm a rinse it off in the nearest mud puddle, and powerwash it before I work on it kinda guy....
Thanks for the info...Ed3:D
 

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I run the baja's Ed and I beat the hell out of them and no problems bending or leaking air.The only other wheel to recommend would be the hipers but they are way expensive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
WOW:wub:
I've never seen those PSI...
At first glance I thought they were Hypers....NICE but big ching...
I REALLY like the OMF's....B)
Do they come with the Kawi green lock rings or did you have them PC?
I'm going to do search for those right NOW!!!!
 

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u get a choice on the rings wat color or polished or spider webs and other stuff any offset or any quad single or double lock
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Yeah...:(
I guess I saw that coming...
They ARE my favorite looking wheel to date...
and pretty well out of my $ range...
new at least.
I'm amazed I never heard of them...
it appears every motorsport I am interested in runs these wheels....? Duh
I need to get my head out of my a$$ :p
I'm going to keep my eye out for some used ones.
I really like the modular design....
It appears you can order different bolt pattern centers...
and just change them out without dismounting or even airing down the tire...SLICK!!
If I were going to design a wheel myself....I don't think I could improve on these...
they are EXACTLY what I want, STRENGTH, LOOKS, OPTIONS, OPTIONS, OPTIONS:D
Thanks dude...
 

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I think you will find that the ITP C-series wheels are a LOT heavier than wheels like the the T-9 Pro. They weight and the fact that you have to run tapered lug nuts with the C-series are other things that don't impress me about the C-series.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
What's wrong with tapered lugs?
I prefer them to washer type.
I have used both on my 1 ton 4x4...
other than needing to use a little white grease on the taper...
so it doesn't gouge the aluminum...
I think they're better...?
I know your forte is wheels & tires...whacha got for me Twyz....?
maybe I'm missing the boat on this one....
 

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I guess it isn't that I dislike tapered lug nuts. It's that our V's come stock with flat nuts and it can be a pain to keep two different style lug nuts around. I am constantly changing the tires on my V's for the different terrain I ride.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I see, I never had the stockers so I didn't realize...
I do know that my studs are a little too short for my liking...
I don't even have a full nut with the C series on there now...
I was gonna get longer studs...
but the manual says to replace the whole hub if you need new studs.
Is there a good reason for this?
I don't want to ruin my hubs if the studs WILL NOT press out...
Or is Kawi just covering their a$$ on this...
Has anyone replaced their studs the V before?
 

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I had to knock one of my studs out to straighten my hub when my friend hit a tree with my green V on New Years Day. The studs will hammer right out. Just make sure you have a nut threaded on the end so you don't mess up the threads. I also used a nut/washer to draw it back in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
COOL!!!
Thanks Twyz...
I'ma press um out tomorrow and go get sum longer ones...
They make me nervous...
Until I can get me sum better wheels... ;)
 

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Well, you already have rear wheels. :lol:
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Oh Yeahhhh......;):cool::p
 
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