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Discussion Starter #1
What could be causing my problems on my brute? It's hard to change gear in it and I have to rock the atv forward/backward to get the gears changed. RPMs seem fine. CVT belt is worn out/has cracks and is pretty loose, but doubt that would cause it. Ordered new belt but I think it might be caused by something else. Any ideas? The brute has 3500 miles/600 hours on the clock.
 

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they shift hard, its how all well designed quads are. they have strait cut gears that are designed to last, makes it loud and tough to shift sometimes, its better if you dont hold the brake.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Really? Good to know. Thought I had some issues with my brute and was worried it was broken. Only atv I have used before this was my Linhai that I had before the brute. It was never hard to change gears in it, but then again it felt like a toy compared to the brute and I was always worried I would break it.
 

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Are you saying it needs to be forcefully placed in gear - that aint right . It should go in gear easy - it might make a slight clink clink noise going into gear, but it should go in easy without rocking. If you idle is turned up too much on a carbed brute, grinding may happen when placing it in gear if it will go at all. Also you may want to check to see if the front and rear motor mounts are good and tight as well.
 

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As Dman says, it should go into gear easy. No rocking required. I've never once had to rock mine to get it into any gear.
 

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had to any time its flat, same with the outlander, not serious rocking just moving my body. had both from new
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Just tried to change gear without staring the brute and same issue. Wont change gear unless i rock the atv... Weird.
 

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had to any time its flat, same with the outlander, not serious rocking just moving my body. had both from new
I have ridden a Can Am Outlander 650 G1, an 800 G1, and a 1000 G2. None of them required rocking to shift them into gear. The 1000 sometimes popped hard once throttle was applied, but it was never hard to move the lever into the range I wanted. The shift linkage probably needed some adjustment on that particular quad.

If your Can Am and Kawie require rocking to shift, then something is wrong with them. They are not supposed to be hard to shift. You should be able to do it with one finger.
 

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Here is a video of changing gear while atv ain't running. It acts exactly the same while running. When camera moves it's me rocking the brute.

https://youtu.be/ziERcoZQkGU
How about a video of while its running ?
Your shifting while not running is normal to have to rock it to get the gears to mesh in the right spot.
While the engine is running, you should not be rocking it to get it into gear at all. This points me in the direction that your motor mounts could be loose causing the slightest play in the transmission gear selector rod to make it out of adjustment.
So did you buy the quad used and this is what you have, or was the quad always yours and did this just start ?
You need to check the motor mounts first. Place the rear parking brake on, and rock the quad forward and reverse while watching the engine for movement. If there is no movement, and you insured that all the motor mounts are tight, then you can try adjusting the tie rod in between the shifter and the trans selector. Loosen up both tie rod lock nuts, and turn the tie rod until you have the shifter sitting good in each gear position, while the engine is running. You only usually need to move the tie rod like maybe 1/16th to an 1/8th of a turn in either direction, so mark the rod and a stationary point at the gear selector. Get the adjustment wrong, and you can blow out the trans gear bearing by your left leg while in a hard throttle launch. This adjustment will require lots of patience, and may take a couple of tries till its right.
 

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running or not shouldn't matter if the secondary is stationary, which it should be if nothing is wrong with the clutch and the idle isnt too high
 

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Are we over thinking this? The machine is off. Of course it’s going to be hard to shift. If you have to do this when it’s running then there is a problem. But this is normal if the machine is off. Mine is the same way
 

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Just tried to change gear without staring the brute and same issue. Wont change gear unless i rock the atv... Weird.
This is normal ^^^. The gears won't engage because they aren't turning so they can become synchronized.

The belt is cracked and you didn't replace it???? Won't comment any more on that.

Won't engage while running? There's only two causes:
1: The idle speed is too low.
2: The belt is way too loose.
The primary clutch is always turning when the engine is running. A properly tensioned belt will transfer this rotation to the secondary clutch, even at an idle. Yes, normally the secondary clutch will be turning when idling in neutral. The secondary clutch is the input to the gearbox. The secondary clutch needs to turn to allow the gears to mesh; the gearbox has no synchronizers. If the belt is way too loose, then the secondary won't turn at an idle, and it will be difficult to engage the transmission.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Ok, so it probably is the belt then cause it's really loose (even takes pretty much gas for the brute to move, but moves fine once it starts moving) and I would have replaced it by now but haven't received my new belt from partzilla yet (takes a week or 2 to ship to Finland). And I never tried changing gear on an atv before while it's not running so didn't know how it should act, but it acts exactly the same as whrn running. I will report back on this matter once I get the belt and change it.

Someone asked me if I had owned it since new and this issue just started or if I got it like this. I got it like this, sadly. It was cheap and I didn't notice this issue when I took it for a short spin before buying it.
 

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Ok, so it probably is the belt then cause it's really loose (even takes pretty much gas for the brute to move, but moves fine once it starts moving) and I would have replaced it by now but haven't received my new belt from partzilla yet (takes a week or 2 to ship to Finland). And I never tried changing gear on an atv before while it's not running so didn't know how it should act, but it acts exactly the same as whrn running. I will report back on this matter once I get the belt and change it.

Someone asked me if I had owned it since new and this issue just started or if I got it like this. I got it like this, sadly. It was cheap and I didn't notice this issue when I took it for a short spin before buying it.
I think it will be fine with a new, properly adjusted belt.
A new belt is not necessarily going to have the correct tension/deflection, and may require adjustments.
The genuine Kawasaki belt is BY FAR the best quality.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Yea, ordered genuine kawasaki belt. Costs about 200$ here in Finland and takes a week to get it so ordered from partzilla. Got no idea how to adjust a cvt belt, but I think internet can solve that problem for me.
 

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Yea, ordered genuine kawasaki belt. Costs about 200$ here in Finland and takes a week to get it so ordered from partzilla. .
Ouch! Is that US dollars? :surprise: Why so much?
 

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