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Brute force isn’t accelerating at normal speed

404 Views 17 Replies 2 Participants Last post by  TY13R15
So this is probably my 5th post I’ve made of this bike, it just slowly accelerates in speed, won’t even spin the tires in the dirt.
My problems started when I noticed oil coming out my front cylinder so I tore the whole motor down and everything looked fine except the bottom gasket looked like trash. I kept investigating bc I couldn’t believe a gasket would just go like that but I guess it happens bc I found nothing, so I put the bike together.
Now my problems are the acceleration, here’s a list of things I’ve checked so far.
TPS, CPS, Injectors, Valves, all check out fine.
Fuel pump was new just a year and a half ago.
please help, I don’t want to take this bike to anyone bc I will lose my ass on it if I do.
Also the bike shuts off now when I give it gas sometimes
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What are the actual numbers of:
-Compression on both cylinders:
-Fuel pump pressure:
-Voltage at the coils during running & Battery load tested to:
-CPS/Pulse coil ohms of resistance:

Have you checked the valve timing?
Has anyone had the rotor/flywheel off lately? If so have you checked the key for shearing?
What are the actual numbers of:
-Compression on both cylinders:
-Fuel pump pressure:
-Voltage at the coils during running & Battery load tested to:
-CPS/Pulse coil ohms of resistance:

Have you checked the valve timing?
Has anyone had the rotor/flywheel off lately? If so have you checked the key for shearing?
I’ve been busy but I checked the Valve timing is fine, noticed where the wire comes out for the stator has some oil coming out. Compression on both cylinders are 55psi with no plugs in, have not checked the fuel pressure yet but I have the gauge just trying to find some videos on how to do that bc I haven’t did it before. I will have to redo my CPS/Pulse coil ohms of resistance and Voltage at the coils during running & Battery load tested to. Bc I can’t remember. But I feel like my compression should be higher, I’m going to take the side cover off and put some self gasket on the rubber piece on the wire which I did prior but obviously not good enough and a new gasket then check it again
Sense you are pulling that cover, check the rotor's key. With the comp releases working 55psi is in the normal range. Need that fuel pressure and volume.
Sense you are pulling that cover, check the rotor's key. With the comp releases working 55psi is in the normal range. Need that fuel pressure and volume.
okay I’m draining my oil right now so I’ll let you know
Bicycle part Automotive tire Rim Engineering Optometry

okay I’m draining my oil right now so I’ll let you know
I think everything is fine
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Impossible to see without removing the retaining bolt. But that would mean you will have to re-torque it..and it must be correct. If no one has ever been in there and had it off, chances are it's OK.
Impossible to see without removing the retaining bolt. But that would mean you will have to re-torque it..and it must be correct. If no one has ever been in there and had it off, chances are it's OK.
I work out of town but I got time to finish my tests this is what i got. - valve timing: good - compression: 55psi on both cylinders - fuel pressure: I think is good because it maxed my gauge out - voltage at coils during running:4.2 Front 3.7 rear ac volts -Battery: 12.24 and 13.15 running - cps/ pulse coil: 2.42 ac volts on crank
I work out of town but I got time to finish my tests this is what i got. - valve timing: good - compression: 55psi on both cylinders - fuel pressure: I think is good because it maxed my gauge out - voltage at coils during running:4.2 Front 3.7 rear ac volts -Battery: 12.24 and 13.15 running - cps/ pulse coil: 2.42 ac volts on crank
I switched my multimeter to ohms and I didn’t get anything on the small connector but the other two bigger connectors I got a beeb
I switched my multimeter to ohms and I didn’t get anything on the small connector but the other two bigger connectors I got a beeb
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These sensors was the only ones I didn’t know if I got switched around or not I don’t even know what they do
These sensors was the only ones I didn’t know if I got switched around or not I don’t even know what they do
One's neutral and the other is reverse.
I work out of town but I got time to finish my tests this is what i got. - valve timing: good - compression: 55psi on both cylinders - fuel pressure: I think is good because it maxed my gauge out - voltage at coils during running:4.2 Front 3.7 rear ac volts -Battery: 12.24 and 13.15 running - cps/ pulse coil: 2.42 ac volts on crank
Coil voltage is low if you try and read it while running or cranking. Should be closer to battery voltage...which is also low. Static should be 12.4-12.6+ and running should be 13.7-14 under 2500 and 14.4-14.7 above 2500. Might be the meter...might be the battery...might be a failing stator.
Coil voltage is low if you try and read it while running or cranking. Should be closer to battery voltage...which is also low. Static should be 12.4-12.6+ and running should be 13.7-14 under 2500 and 14.4-14.7 above 2500. Might be the meter...might be the battery...might be a failing stator.
I thought I had them right just wanted to double check. I had to mess with my needles a lot I might not of had a good connection I will try again. But the stator is only a year old so I would think if anything it’s the coils.
Coil voltage is low if you try and read it while running or cranking. Should be closer to battery voltage...which is also low. Static should be 12.4-12.6+ and running should be 13.7-14 under 2500 and 14.4-14.7 above 2500. Might be the meter...might be the battery...might be a failing stator.
So on my front coil I ended up wiggling the needles in there better and got it to read 12.7 -15 on the front coil but on the rear I couldn’t get a steady read, it was going all over the place it’s also hard to get to tho
How can you get 15 volts with a 12 volt system? Starting to think your meter has an issue.
How can you get 15 volts with a 12 volt system? Starting to think your meter has an issue.
Idk was confusing the hell out of me, I think I’m not getting a good connection. My meter is a new Kline meter that I’ve only had for a year. Never had any trouble out of it before. I’m using a wire with alligator clamps and clamping a needle on one side and putting the other on my meter for each wire. But instead of sliding it beside the wire into the back of the plug imma just going to stab it into the wires tomorrow. Bc something’s not right for sure
Idk was confusing the hell out of me, I think I’m not getting a good connection. My meter is a new Kline meter that I’ve only had for a year. Never had any trouble out of it before. I’m using a wire with alligator clamps and clamping a needle on one side and putting the other on my meter for each wire. But instead of sliding it beside the wire into the back of the plug imma just going to stab it into the wires tomorrow. Bc something’s not right for sure
Okay I did a ohms test and got 18.6k and 17.8 k on the secondary which is way out of spec from what I’ve read but how would the bike run and drive? I mean I know there’s obvious signs bc it won’t give the rpm’s
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