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Discussion Starter #1
I have noticed that my orange V will be 1/2 to 2/3 of a quart low on oil after a full day of hard riding. I am guessing it is burning the oil because it doesn't leak anywhere. It is not ending up in the airbox... already checked that. I only fill it it to the middle of the hatched area on the dipstick but after a day of hard riding, it will just barely register on the dipstick.

Is there a way to determine if it is a cylinder problem requiring a rebuild (bad rings or scored cylinder walls) or if it is something like valve seals leaking? Would a leakdown test determine that?
 

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Aha

Same thing happond to my brute, Take it to a dealer and get them to do a compression test, it will tell you were your leakege is coming from, my brute had 40% on top and 60% bottem,
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I don't think a compression test will do it. If anything, it might have to be a leak-down test I would guess.
 

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i would think to being going through that much oil, it should be smoking pretty good:confused:
 

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i agree with the leak down test. Also the plugs should tell if it's one or the other as well. Mine was a little low last month, dont know why YET. I know I'm starting to suk the intake valves in though.
 

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My 04 V started doing that this last summer, I took it as a sign to start getting the parts together for a rebuild. My valves were sunken in and there was minor scoring on the cylinder walls. Luckily my bottom end is still tight but I am rebuilding it as well because I do not want to spend this kind of money on the top end just to have the bottom crap out on me later. Good luck.
 

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When my brute was stock bolt-on's only it used oil. Valves keep going out of adjustment also. I replaced valves and seals and it stopped.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
i would think to being going through that much oil, it should be smoking pretty good:confused:
That is what is strange. It isn't really smoking other than right after you start it. My green V smokes a bit until it is warmed up as well. I think it is normal when the motor is cold. I had my old style PRM cargo rack mounted on it for the ride this past weekend and it was somewhat black where the exhaust hit it but it didn't really seem oily. If anything, it just seemed like I may have it jetted a bit rich.

I guess I may have to bring it to the "stealer" to get a leakdown test done. If it turns out bad, I will probably have to just keep an eye on the oil level for now because I don't have $800-$1000 for a BBK rebuild right now... and if there IS valve problems, I am sure that cost a few hundred more yet. :mad: If and when it DOES happen, that motor is going in my green V or otherwise I am switching the plastics and everything else from my green one over to the frame/motor of the orange one.
 

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Yea a compression test would actuality probably show it and you need to check to see if your plug is fouled because if its burning oil it will show on the plugs and if it smokes at first then stops it means that your valve seals are bad and if you can do it yourself then those are dirt cheap to fix but yea something is denfititly wrong if its udeing that much oil
 

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Discussion Starter #10
How would a compression test tell you if you have a problem such as bad rings or cylinder walls or if you have bad valve seals. I thought it was just a gauge of whether there is compression or not in a particular cylinder and how much. I can't see how it would with finding where the problem is. Am I missing something?
 

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Well

Well a compression test is my first choce bccause my brute dident smoke anything, Not even when started, and it had major leakage , Clyinders scored and pistens need replacen, Turns out since i got it( kawasaki had a bad batch of brutes and wouldent cover it under warrenttee) I have been goign thought alot of oil, have contaner a day, Thought it was normal due to no leak and no smoke, then did a test and leakby, so give a compresstion test at a dealer, then go from there(or if you know how to get down to the pistons then try and get them out take a lot at the wallz
 

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a compression test will tell you if there is something wrong in each cylinder, just won't pinpoint it as a leakdown test can. I would start with a comp. check and see where you are at. If it shows good or bad then go from there. If it is bad then you know you have to pull the head off anyways, and if you go that far you might as well do rings too.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
What should the compression be as a good range? I have a compression tester at home. I will probably end up bringing it to the dealer for a leakdown test as well.

I guess I am just nervous opening up the motor. I haven't ever taken a 4-stroke apart before... let alone a twin cylinder. I guess I may have to do some reading in my service manual. Is there anything advice/tricks that are not stated in the service manual that I should know about?
 

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my v is doing it also smokey right at start up which leads me to beleave its valve seals im waiting until i change cams and pistons for now.
 

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Pretty much just read the manual, double check cam timing on assembly, don't mix up rocker covers with heads. They are a matched set. I would mark cyl, head, and rocker covers with a punch or something permanent. Just do everything in the order the manual says and you will be fine.

I don't know what the stock compression is.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
If I were to end up pulling the heads and installing new piston rings (while I was in there), would a top end gasket kit cover all of the gaskets I would need to put it back together or do I need the full complete gasket kit?

Has anyone used the Tusk brand top end gasket kit from RMATV? It is only $23 vs $70-$85 for a Cometic kit.
 

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"Quit your bitchen";):lol:
 

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Discussion Starter #18
"Quit your bitchen";):lol:
:confused::blink::hmm: :lol:


Do you guys think that it is possible that switching to synthetic oil is causing any of this? I bought the orange V in June and had just changed the oil for the 2nd time right before the ride last weekend. I had put in 5w-40 Shell Rotella-T synthetic on the first oil change and I put in 5w-40 Schaeffer 9000 synthetic for this last oil change. I had about the same oil consumption with the Rotella oil. I have heard that switching from regular to synthetic oil can cause some oil consumption for a period of time but will mostly go away after a while but I don't know how true that is.
 

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That "may" have been true many years ago when synthetic oils first came out.
Now you can switch back and forth without any issues.
I use Rotella in my bike and my quad,it has been proven (not by me)to be one of the best oils you can buy.
 
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