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Discussion Starter #1
Got to check this today....
 

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Up pulling up and down and a little left/right. Doesn't have any in/out play.
That's....not good. Although it will go for a little while longer, soon the rotor will start hitting the stator and take it out...along with other symptoms of loose mains such as low oil pressure, a real low-end knock...ect. Off-road, those are usually only good for about 10-12K miles and most get a full rebuild before that... but you have about double that on that bottom-end. A testament to your excelant maintenance and oil choices. Alas, there comes a time when even the best of engines need a full re-manufacture. Yours isn't too far off.
 

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That's....not good. Although it will go for a little while longer, soon the rotor will start hitting the stator and take it out...along with other symptoms of loose mains such as low oil pressure, a real low-end knock...ect. Off-road, those are usually only good for about 10-12K miles and most get a full rebuild before that... but you have about double that on that bottom-end. A testament to your excelant maintenance and oil choices. Alas, there comes a time when even the best of engines need a full re-manufacture. Yours isn't too far off.
Wow, I didn't think it was that bad. It barely moves.

I will just run it until it blows. Then I'll just buy a remanned engine to drop in if nobody is making a quad I want by then.
 

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Wow, I didn't think it was that bad. It barely moves.

I will just run it until it blows. Then I'll just buy a remanned engine to drop in if nobody is making a quad I want by then.
Well it's a main and the one or two thousands it should have shouldn't be felt by hand..let alone seen. She has a while. It's proven to be a super-good and fathfull engine...other then the top-end issues..which so many had, I would consider a full remann from nFlow and keep the numbers matching. Afterall...she is a classic now....and a bit famous :) Or put it together and plan on your next machine soon and park it to save it.
 

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Well it's a main and the one or two thousands it should have shouldn't be felt by hand..let alone seen. She has a while. It's proven to be a super-good and fathfull engine...other then the top-end issues..which so many had, I would consider a full remann from nFlow and keep the numbers matching. Afterall...she is a classic now....and a bit famous :) Or put it together and plan on your next machine soon and park it to save it.
I'd say it might have 4 thou play. What's the limit in the service manual?
 

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I'd say it might have 4 thou play. What's the limit in the service manual?
Not sure it would be in there cause that's a factory installed bushing/bearing but..it should be somewhere close to the rod bearings. I don't have a manual on the 700 but do for the 6 and 750s. Should be the same...or close. I'll take a look.
 

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Not sure it would be in there cause that's a factory installed bushing/bearing but..it should be somewhere close to the rod bearings. I don't have a manual on the 700 but do for the 6 and 750s. Should be the same...or close. I'll take a look.
I've got the manual, just no time to look through it today.
Doesn't the crank bolt and case support it somewhat? Seems like it would, but after 5 long nights in a row, I'm not sure I could think my way out of a cardboard box right now.
 

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Well, on the 750s, it shows the standard bore size of 1.6545-1.6552 and a bore service limit of 1.6567in. That or larger it says to replace the case halves but a good shop can replace the bushing now. For the rod bearings it shows .0011-.0020 and the service limit is .0035. So...yeah, she might be past the service limit if you can see and feel it I'm thinking.
 

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I've got the manual, just no time to look through it today.
Doesn't the crank bolt and case support it somewhat? Seems like it would, but after 5 long nights in a row, I'm not sure I could think my way out of a cardboard box right now.
Not sure I follow. The case halves come together with that bushing on one main and a bearing on the other. That bushing also serves as the thrust.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Not sure I follow. The case halves come together with that bushing on one main and a bearing on the other. That bushing also serves as the thrust.
With the chains on, it cuts the movement by half.
 

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With the chains on, it cuts the movement by half.
LOL...of course it does...well, from taking the operational limits of the crank bearing surface and the bushing bore I get that it should have between .0016 and .0017 normally. However when I take both service limits I get a max of .0047. I guess you might be able to feel that by hand..maybe not..considering there is also a coating of oil in there taking up some room. IDK man. It's your machine. But if it were mine...well you know. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
LOL...of course it does...well, from taking the operational limits of the crank bearing surface and the bushing bore I get that it should have between .0016 and .0017 normally. However when I take both service limits I get a max of .0047. I guess you might be able to feel that by hand..maybe not..considering there is also a coating of oil in there taking up some room. IDK man. It's your machine. But if it were mine...well you know. :)
Well, if it will get me by until next spring, that's the next possible time I'd have to deal with it. If it blows up before then, well, I guess I call inflow.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Well I got a chance to check my manual tonight. It says the minimum journal diameter on the crank is 1.652", and the max bore of the bearing is 1.657" essentially, just like the Brute manual. That's just a hair under .005" play. I cut metal to the half thou often, and I'd say the play is between 3 and 4 thou. Looks worse I guess in the video because the sun is shining on the oil that's sitting on the end of the bearing. Unfortunately, I can't find a single video anywhere of people checking their play on their kawies, so I have nothing to compare it to.
Doesn't matter I guess because I don't have the time to deal with it right now anyway. I'm just going to have to hope that it stays under the limit for awhile. It might end up being like my front axle play. It wiggled around at 11,000 miles and kinda had me worried that it was going to start leaking any day. 13,000 miles later, it's still got the same play and hasn't leaked a drop of oil. Knock on wood.😃
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Both NFlow and VFJ said you can't tell the shape of the bearing by my video. It has to be disassembled and measured. NFlow now sells a a better than OEM bearing that can be pressed in with no honing or inline boring needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Good..I like nFlow. They do great work.
Yep. They're getting my crank, left case, and bearing when it comes time. Really impressed with their prompt answer and friendly demeanor.
 

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Yep. They're getting my crank, left case, and bearing when it comes time. Really impressed with their prompt answer and friendly demeanor.
They share the same ethics as we had at Honda when I worked for them. Nothing leaves the shop unless it was right whatever it takes. Heck most things come back better then factory-fresh. When the time comes, they will be doing mine as well.
 
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