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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all,

Recently became the new owner of an older quad---a 2004 prairie 360 4x4.

I have searched these forums to no avail and cannot seem to find the appropriate answer to the issue I am having.

When I first bought the bike, it would sputter in low range RPMS and not go over 40. The guy I bought it off of said I needed a stator and it would run fine...to my "surprise", that was not the issue. Changed the stator and symptoms are still the same.

I took out the carb and cleaned it thoroughly, re-installed it and it still does not work properly. Coughs in mid RPM s and thats the end of the story.

This is what I have done so far:

-New battery
-New spark plug
-New belt
-New Stator


I am seriously willing to entertain anything at this point now..

Also...the belt light keeps flashing and so does the 4X4 light. I did the reset procedure countless times. Think I can get the belt light to go away? Nope.

So, my questions for the dedicated members of this forum are:

-Would the rev limiter prevent high idles even in neutral?
-Do you think its more electrical then mechanical?
-Could it possible be valve clearance.?
-Voltage regulator?

I am a complete newb. So even the smallest guidance with how or what I should do next would be extremely appreciated. I live in an isolated community in northern Canada with 2000 people...things get flown in or trained in. Chances of me reaching a Kawi dealer are slim.


Thanks guys!!

Cheers
 

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Flashing 4x4 light means there is an error in the drive, like a speed sensor or KEBC. But it shouldn't stop the engine from running clean. There is a rev limiter (or was) for limp mode when the belt switch is tripped. Have you made sure the belt switch is closed before the belt reset procedure?

I had a similar problem on an 05 360. I had to fully clean the carb (many small holes that need to be cleaned well) and my primary was shot (made it seem like I wasn't getting all the RPMs, but I really was).


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An issue with the KEBC wouldn't affect how it runs, however I'm fairly certain and issue with your speed sensor would. Is your speedometer working? If your speed sensor is the bad, I believe it affects the timing on the motor which would obviously cause it to run horribly...
 

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i had to put new jets in mine after i let it sit for a while.i soaked it a couple times though it was clean
 

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Discussion Starter #5
An issue with the KEBC wouldn't affect how it runs, however I'm fairly certain and issue with your speed sensor would. Is your speedometer working? If your speed sensor is the bad, I believe it affects the timing on the motor which would obviously cause it to run horribly...

Hey there,

You raise an interesting point. My speedometer is completely shot. Does not work at all. Sometimes it reads sometimes it does not. However lately it has been reading but certainly not top notch...you think this might be the issue? Is the sensor itself in the speedometer assembly? In other words, if I purchase a new speedometer, will it come with a new sensor? Thanks in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Flashing 4x4 light means there is an error in the drive, like a speed sensor or KEBC. But it shouldn't stop the engine from running clean. There is a rev limiter (or was) for limp mode when the belt switch is tripped. Have you made sure the belt switch is closed before the belt reset procedure?

I had a similar problem on an 05 360. I had to fully clean the carb (many small holes that need to be cleaned well) and my primary was shot (made it seem like I wasn't getting all the RPMs, but I really was).

Wawoodwa: thanks for the reply.

The EBC is working fine...I have troubles going into 4X4 sometimes, so maybe its the front actuator. However, like you said, since its not moving I didnt think it would stop it from reving properly in neutral. Another member did just post saying that it might affect it. To be honest, both answers seem legit.

Thoughts?
 

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360's are known for having poor running due to tight valves. I would adjust the valves first.
Make sure the belt detection switch (inside the CVT housing) is in the correct position; facing toward the rear, then do the reset.
The 360, when running properly, won't go much over 40mph.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Novakaw 650,

Thanks for your response. I forgot to mention it was 40 KPH. so around 20 MPH. I will look at resetting the valves...not sure if thats the problem though. Any diagnostic tips?


Cheers
 

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Aviatorman, your issue sounds a lot like mine and mine was the primary clutch. It had been run out. Do you know how many hours on the machine? Has the primary clutch ever been replaced? Does the sheaves look good (straight cone, not wavy)? My story getting mine to run is on here in a thread somewhere.


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Discussion Starter #10
Wawoodwa,

I think it has around 4000 KM on it, so quite a bit. I dont think the clutch has ever been changed, from my point of view it looks OK. I can put up a picture in the next post. But even if the primary clutch was bad, it wouldnt caused it to sputter in neutral...would it?

Cheers
 

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Wawoodwa,

I think it has around 4000 KM on it, so quite a bit. I dont think the clutch has ever been changed, from my point of view it looks OK. I can put up a picture in the next post. But even if the primary clutch was bad, it wouldnt caused it to sputter in neutral...would it?

Cheers
360's ate clutches, but that won't make it sputter. It's not likely that the valve adjustment will either.
Did it run any different after you cleaned the carb?
 

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Wawoodwa,

I think it has around 4000 KM on it, so quite a bit. I dont think the clutch has ever been changed, from my point of view it looks OK. I can put up a picture in the next post. But even if the primary clutch was bad, it wouldnt caused it to sputter in neutral...would it?

Cheers
Lets get a picture of the clutch. That may help. This sounds exactly like mine. Not saying it is the same problem, but let me explain. I got a new to me 05 360. No speedo, so no idea how many hours. Rode hard and put up wet, many, many times. Never had a real ATV before, so I didn't know what it should sound like, etc.

Once I got it running, I would be lucky to get 20 MPH out of it. The engine would sputter when I had the throttle all the way down. In neutral, I would run it up and I would get the sputter too. So I thought I wasn't getting all the RPMs out of it and it was cutting out.

I worked on it, cleaned the carb real well, etc. and put it all together and...no change. So I researched more. I sent the primary clutch to VFJ to see if it needed to be repaired. It was JUNK. He said the clutch had at least 4,000 hours on it (H/T to VFJ). The motor was topping out, but because the sheaves were so worn, the belt was never climbing up the sheaves to get to the higher gear ratio to go faster.

In actuality, I was getting all the RPMs out of the engine. It was rev limiting, causing the sputter. The primary was just so shot, that the belt never climbed under load. However, cleaning the carb was also critical. I took the advice of the senior members here and cleaned it completely, every orifice, everywhere (make sure not to get cleaner on the CV diaphragm and ruin that. That is an expensive piece that can't be repaired, only bought.)

After replacing the primary, the machine runs like a champ. Every bit of 40MPH. And it has been going strong for about 18 months. We use it all around the farm here.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Flashing 4x4 light means there is an error in the drive, like a speed sensor or KEBC. But it shouldn't stop the engine from running clean. There is a rev limiter (or was) for limp mode when the belt switch is tripped. Have you made sure the belt switch is closed before the belt reset procedure?

I had a similar problem on an 05 360. I had to fully clean the carb (many small holes that need to be cleaned well) and my primary was shot (made it seem like I wasn't getting all the RPMs, but I really was).


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Wawoodwa,

I think it has around 4000 KM on it, so quite a bit. I dont think the clutch has ever been changed, from my point of view it looks OK. I can put up a picture in the next post. But even if the primary clutch was bad, it wouldnt caused it to sputter in neutral...would it?

Cheers
Lets get a picture of the clutch. That may help. This sounds exactly like mine. Not saying it is the same problem, but let me explain. I got a new to me 05 360. No speedo, so no idea how many hours. Rode hard and put up wet, many, many times. Never had a real ATV before, so I didn't know what it should sound like, etc.

Once I got it running, I would be lucky to get 20 MPH out of it. The engine would sputter when I had the throttle all the way down. In neutral, I would run it up and I would get the sputter too. So I thought I wasn't getting all the RPMs out of it and it was cutting out.

I worked on it, cleaned the carb real well, etc. and put it all together and...no change. So I researched more. I sent the primary clutch to VFJ to see if it needed to be repaired. It was JUNK. He said the clutch had at least 4,000 hours on it (H/T to VFJ). The motor was topping out, but because the sheaves were so worn, the belt was never climbing up the sheaves to get to the higher gear ratio to go faster.

In actuality, I was getting all the RPMs out of the engine. It was rev limiting, causing the sputter. The primary was just so shot, that the belt never climbed under load. However, cleaning the carb was also critical. I took the advice of the senior members here and cleaned it completely, every orifice, everywhere (make sure not to get cleaner on the CV diaphragm and ruin that. That is an expensive piece that can't be repaired, only bought.)

After replacing the primary, the machine runs like a champ. Every bit of 40MPH. And it has been going strong for about 18 months. We use it all around the farm here.
Hey man,

Very interesting explanation. This does sound exactly like mine. It feels like its a rev limiter issue for sure and the lack of speed also explains it. What I am still trying to wrap my head around is, what is triggering the rev limiter....the belt switch inside the belt housing is not tripped. So why is it not reving well? I get that it wont go fast and the clutch part makes complete sense, but even after resetting it it will still sputter in neutral... heres what ill do.

Im going to post pictures of the completely cleaned carb, as well as the quad it self and the clutch..hopefully it will be a bit better from there.

So you dont think its a CDI issue or a voltage rectifyer issue at all?

Cheers
 

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I don't think it is a CDI or voltage regulator problem... But I could be wrong. With the belt light still on, that is a red flag. There is a limiter involved with that. Also, the computer is connected through the belt switch, so that is a problem that needs to be resolved.

In my case, I was revving the engine up to its limit in neutral when it was sputtering. I didn't realize it was hitting the high end of the RPM range...I thought I was still mid-range as I didn't have a tachometer.
 

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Flashing 4x4 light means there is an error in the drive, like a speed sensor or KEBC. But it shouldn't stop the engine from running clean. There is a rev limiter (or was) for limp mode when the belt switch is tripped. Have you made sure the belt switch is closed before the belt reset procedure?

I had a similar problem on an 05 360. I had to fully clean the carb (many small holes that need to be cleaned well) and my primary was shot (made it seem like I wasn't getting all the RPMs, but I really was).


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Wawoodwa,

I think it has around 4000 KM on it, so quite a bit. I dont think the clutch has ever been changed, from my point of view it looks OK. I can put up a picture in the next post. But even if the primary clutch was bad, it wouldnt caused it to sputter in neutral...would it?

Cheers
Lets get a picture of the clutch. That may help. This sounds exactly like mine. Not saying it is the same problem, but let me explain. I got a new to me 05 360. No speedo, so no idea how many hours. Rode hard and put up wet, many, many times. Never had a real ATV before, so I didn't know what it should sound like, etc.

Once I got it running, I would be lucky to get 20 MPH out of it. The engine would sputter when I had the throttle all the way down. In neutral, I would run it up and I would get the sputter too. So I thought I wasn't getting all the RPMs out of it and it was cutting out.

I worked on it, cleaned the carb real well, etc. and put it all together and...no change. So I researched more. I sent the primary clutch to VFJ to see if it needed to be repaired. It was JUNK. He said the clutch had at least 4,000 hours on it (H/T to VFJ). The motor was topping out, but because the sheaves were so worn, the belt was never climbing up the sheaves to get to the higher gear ratio to go faster.

In actuality, I was getting all the RPMs out of the engine. It was rev limiting, causing the sputter. The primary was just so shot, that the belt never climbed under load. However, cleaning the carb was also critical. I took the advice of the senior members here and cleaned it completely, every orifice, everywhere (make sure not to get cleaner on the CV diaphragm and ruin that. That is an expensive piece that can't be repaired, only bought.)

After replacing the primary, the machine runs like a champ. Every bit of 40MPH. And it has been going strong for about 18 months. We use it all around the farm here.
Hey man,

Very interesting explanation. This does sound exactly like mine. It feels like its a rev limiter issue for sure and the lack of speed also explains it. What I am still trying to wrap my head around is, what is triggering the rev limiter....the belt switch inside the belt housing is not tripped. So why is it not reving well? I get that it wont go fast and the clutch part makes complete sense, but even after resetting it it will still sputter in neutral... heres what ill do.

Im going to post pictures of the completely cleaned carb, as well as the quad it self and the clutch..hopefully it will be a bit better from there.

So you dont think its a CDI issue or a voltage rectifyer issue at all?

Cheers
Are you sure it's not revving hard enough to be hitting the rev limiter.
Important: How many KM's are on it?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Nova,

roughly 4500 km's on it I believe....

I cant reset the belt switch light to save my life. There is a few postings on how to do it..but I cant seem to do it... Anyone here know ?

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Here is a thread where I posted the belt reset procedure. Let me know if you can get it from this link. If not, I'll try to post it from the web.

2013 brute 750 belt light
https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?ur...&share_tid=134908&share_fid=8969&share_type=t


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Wawoodwa,

I got the pdf document . The procedure is different from what I have found in youtube and in forums. Will give this a shot in a couple ! Keep you posted

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Ok. So the light is still flashing? Do you have a continuity checker/ohm meter and/or and alligator clip? If you have an ohm meter, check to see if the belt switch is in a closed state by testing the leads from it.

If you have an alligator clip, you can simulate a closed switch by closing it across the leads leading to the bike. You can then redo the reset as per the pdf. A flashing belt light can put it in limp mode.


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