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Hey it’s my first oil change and I was told to use the shell Rotella t4 15w40 but it says diesel oil wanted to know why and if the information given to me is correct I have a 2018 brute force 750
 

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Ive been using t-4 since my second oil change. Im assuming vforce john told you. Nice thing about the t-4 is how cheap it is for the 5 quart jug. Get yourself a magnetic drain plug on ebay. I think they are called gold plugs.
 

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Be aware that Diesel lubricants are loaded with detergents , if used for the first time on a used motor it will clear all the carbon ,varnishes and hard oil residues which take up the worn tolerances in the engine … so you could end up with a very noisy, leaky motor …!!!
 

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I would hope varnish is not making up the tolerances of any motor.
 
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That oil is used for the high zinc content that is needed for the babbit bearings in the kawi v twin engine.
Also this oil is recomended because it is low cost.
 
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Be aware that Diesel lubricants are loaded with detergents , if used for the first time on a used motor it will clear all the carbon ,varnishes and hard oil residues which take up the worn tolerances in the engine … so you could end up with a very noisy, leaky motor …!!!
That's not how detergents work at all. They simply suspend, isolate, and/or neutralize insolubles. They don't strip buildup off the engine metal.
 

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Hey it’s my first oil change and I was told to use the shell Rotella t4 15w40 but it says diesel oil wanted to know why and if the information given to me is correct I have a 2018 brute force 750
T4 is an hdeo oil with a jaso ma/2 specification. Kawie says these engines need oil with the jaso ma/2.
I've used the T4 and the T6 in my Kawie before. The T4 was just for break in, but new oil analysis on it shows it's nearly as good at some things as T6 (which is full synthetic).
However, I would not run T4 15w50 in my kawie in the colder months. It "oozed" out of the bottle at 20 degrees F. Well, maybe not oozed, but it was in no hurry when compared to the T6!
And don't ever buy the T5.
 
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There are legions of people using Rotella in their Harleys, and many, many folks using it in their atvs. It might be the most widely used oil in these applications.
That being said, I don't run it anymore. My UOA's showed that while it worked well at protecting, it sheared down fairly fast in my vtwin Kawie. After a short time, it sheared right out of 40 weight into the mid 30's.
Change Rotella often if you use it in a Kawasaki!
 

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There are legions of people using Rotella in their Harleys, and many, many folks using it in their atvs. It might be the most widely used oil in these applications.
That being said, I don't run it anymore. My UOA's showed that while it worked well at protecting, it sheared down fairly fast in my vtwin Kawie. After a short time, it sheared right out of 40 weight into the mid 30's.
Change Rotella often if you use it in a Kawasaki!
Can I ask what you recommend?

I only recently got my Prairie and I just used a quality synthetic motorcycle oil, I don't even remember what brand. I've always been of the school of just use a reputable oil intended for your application and change it on schedule and you'll be fine. The internet sometimes likes to go crazy analyzing and speculating, not that there isn't legitimate science behind it.
 

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There are legions of people using Rotella in their Harleys, and many, many folks using it in their atvs. It might be the most widely used oil in these applications.
That being said, I don't run it anymore. My UOA's showed that while it worked well at protecting, it sheared down fairly fast in my vtwin Kawie. After a short time, it sheared right out of 40 weight into the mid 30's.
Change Rotella often if you use it in a Kawasaki!
I change mine every 400 miles or so
 
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Can I ask what you recommend?

I only recently got my Prairie and I just used a quality synthetic motorcycle oil, I don't even remember what brand. I've always been of the school of just use a reputable oil intended for your application and change it on schedule and you'll be fine. The internet sometimes likes to go crazy analyzing and speculating, not that there isn't legitimate science behind it.
I had a big post typed up with all the details, but then I figured it would just probably bore the hell out of 99% of people reading this thread. So here's the short answer:
1. Buy oil with Jaso ma/ma2 classifications.
2. Zinc levels at 1200 and above are preferred. Phosphorus should also be high.
3. Realize that these vtwins shear oil down pretty fast because the trans gears use the motor oil for lubrication. Because of that, change oil often, or use synthetic oils because they shear less by nature. (Also note that class 4 and 5 synthetic oils tend to resist shearing more than class 3 syns, and class 3 is typically what you get from most the "big name" brands at local retailers).

The two best oils I've tried thus far:
Amsoil Metric (is a class 4),
and
Maxima Extra4 (is a mix of class 4 and 5).

Both stayed a 40 viscosity for the entire interval, and both had great report cards from my lab.
Amsoil has around 1400 ppm of zinc, and the Maxima has a whopping 2200 ppm.
 

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Be aware that Diesel lubricants are loaded with detergents , if used for the first time on a used motor it will clear all the carbon ,varnishes and hard oil residues which take up the worn tolerances in the engine … so you could end up with a very noisy, leaky motor …!!!
Here is the deal; historically there was much truth to this. But the argument is between non-detergent oil and detergent oils. That being said; if your vehicle (car/truck/ATV etc) is very neglected and does not get frequent oil changes and you use a MINERAL oil; expect a sludgy build up. This is not normal and very detrimental to the engine. In the old days when even v8s only made around 100 HP a sludgy build up was considered normal because they didn't use detergent oils. Today ALL vehicles require a detergent oil. It you have a vehicle that only ran non-detergent oil the sludge would build up and provide some "oil control" and keep worn out gaskets form leaking. Also a sludged up engine is one where the oil is not very free flowing. Switching to a detergent oil would dissolve the sludge the worn out gaskets would start leaking and the oil would free to splash more and you would see oil smoke from worn valves seals and rings. -
 

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If you have an engine that has developed sludge and carbon buildup to the point where it's choking the engine and filling in tolerances, and you take it to a mechanic, he will do one of three things:
1. He may try a chemical engine flush.
2. Disassemble the engine and physically remove the sludge by hand.
3. Tell you to buy another car/engine.

He probably will not suggest you go buy a barrel of "high detergent" oil, and change it a dozen times. Why? Because as I said earlier, oil detergents don't really work that way. They are much better at preventing buildup than stripping it from the metal surfaces. What stuff they do lift from the surface would better be described as varnish rather than sludge.
 

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This has been working good for me.
I change my oil and filters every 500 miles whether it needs it or not.
 

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Heres mine
 

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Go back through the posts of rubiranch, kickstart and nova. These folks put big miles (and often hard miles) on machines and have a lot of knowledge to offer. If anybody can put forth a reliable, thoroughly field tested oil/engine report it would be them.
 
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