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DIY Brute Force 650 SRA Snorkel

15606 Views 12 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  kawasakibruteforce
I snorkeled my 07 Brute Force 650 4x4 SRA. I looked around for a couple pictures of other DIY snorkel jobs, but all the ones I found were of the independent rear suspension bikes, and there were some notable differences. I thought maybe these pictures and descriptions might help somebody else.

The first picture is of CVT exhaust. I used a 3"x2" rubber boot and transitioned straight into a 2" "vent" 90 degree elbow. The "vent" elbows are short radius, and fit much better than the longer radius fittings. The rubber reducer can be found at a hardware store, usually on the same isle as the PVC pipe
From the 90 I ran the 2" pipe straight up the side of the engine, and using a 2.5" hole saw, ran it through the front fender splash guard to the wheel well.

In the second picture you can see the pipe entering the wheel well (on the left), hitting a 90 turn, going up to another 90, then over to one last 90 which turns up into the 2" coupling and through the top of the fender.
In this picture you also see the CVT intake tubing (the piping on the right). One big difference in my 650 SRA and the 750i was the stock inlet tubing. The 750i and 650i apparently have a rubber tube that comes out, and then turns up. On my bike, it was a little 1.5" rubber coupling going straight into a stock plastic snorkel. It is to close to the frame to get even a short radius 90 squeezed in there. I had to use a flexible 2" rubber 90 degree elbow (shown in the 3rd picture) that you will find in the same area as the 3"x2" coupling used on the CVT exhaust housing. After lots of trying different things, the rubber 90 was the only thing that worked.
Out of the rubber 90 I transitioned straight into a 45 degree elbow, then twisted the rubber elbow until the 45 was pointing straight up. From that I came up and hit two 45 degree elbows that were joined together to make a 90 degree turn. I used the two 45's because it created a very long radius 90 that gave me the most clearance above my tire, and also cleared the shock and frame. A single 90 degree elbow just didn't work for me.
Out of the joined 45's I hit a long radius 90 and then went straight up into the 2" coupling that penetrated the fender.

The air box intake piping was really tricky. This bike has almost no room under the center cover in front of the handle bars. There is some kind of valve installed right in front of the intake that apparently isn't present on the "i" bikes. This also makes running your pipes out the center almost impossible (for me). What I had to do was come out of the air box with another rubber 90 degree elbow just like the one used on the CVT intake. To that I went into a short radius 90, then a straight piece of pipe running out the side of the plastic, entering the wheel well. Your giong to have to play with the angles here, but the straight piece entering the wheel well hits a 45 degree bend, then a really short run of straight pipe to a 90 which goes straight up into the 2" coupling penetrating the fender.

The last picture is of the finished job.

I am not saying this is the only way, or the best way, but it worked great for me.
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Very nice, do you have a parts list? How long did it take you? Looks like a professional job.

Thanks bud. I am happy with the outcome.

Here is the parts list:

- 2 4' lengths of 2" black abs
- 1 3"x2" rubber reducer (found on the PVC isle at Lowes)
- 2 rubber 90 degree elbows (should be right by the rubber reducer)
- 3 male 2" screw couplings
- 3 female 2" screw couplings
- 10 2" short radius "vent" 90 degree elbows
- 1 2" long radius 90 degree elbow
- 3 2" 45 degree elbows
- small bottle of ABS cement
- 2-1/2" hole saw

Everything will cost you around $85 dollars. It took me about 6 hours to complete the install, which included removing and re-installing the atv plastic.
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Nice job!
One thing...I didn't know they made black PVC...
are you sure that's not ABS ?
ABS is most commonly used for drains in residential applications...
it's a little less brittle, and the glue is usually black...
as opposed to PVC, which can have a higher PSI rating...
and the glue is usually clear, and used with a purple primer...
not trying to criticize...just want to be accurate on the parts list...
I could be wrong though...
Really professional looking job!
yes ABS and PVC glues are differant make sure you use the right one...
hey that looks like the same as mudinmyblood.net fourm snorkel
Sorry...yes it is ABS drainage pipe. I didn't prime the fittings though, just scuff them with some 120 grit sand paper prior to gluing.

The snorkel on mudinmyblood is similar, but it is not a sra, hence the differences mentioned with the air box piping and CVT intake.
You can use either ABS (Black), PVC (Grey), or Vent pipe (white). ABS solvent is yellow, PVC - Clear or grey. PVC and ABS are both used for drainage in commercial and residential. For this type of application it doesnt matter what you use. No need to prime ABS, PVC on the other hand you should.
Here is my 650 Sra from last ECMR race we went to

I had 2 2" intake Snorkels for air box
the other 2 2" snorkels were for the CVT system
665 FST motor jets were 190 200 Maind 40 Pilots and a 20 Shot Boondocker kit
Looks good. I used built in vacume hose it fits over the 2" abs pipe. Its quit flexable for thoes odd angles. When i did my air box i used 2" and i have problems getting my jetting right. What did you use for jetts? I aslo have muzzy exhaust and VDI box.
Im doing my snorkle on my 650 Brute right now. Do you have to re-jet after? Everyones talkin about this jetting stuff that I know nothing about.
Tell you the truth rocafella, my brute ran really rich from the day I bought it new, and the K&N filter, CDI box and snorkel all helped it run a lot better. But, even now, it is running rich. I need to adjust the carbs and lean it out a little.
are the srew couplings the rubber couplings. and I didnt realize the make a female and male
how much did this cost you in all?
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