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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well finally got over the depression of installing my bbk and making 5 rides before it started making alot of noise and fell flat, and shut off on that ride. Put some new plugs in the other day before I tore it down...started right up, even was trying to idle but was making a bad ticking noise out of the rear head..I thought. Tore the rear cylinder down today and the valves look great, the cylinder is not scratched at all, the piston looks fine. What the hell could it be then? If the rod bearings or crank bearings were bad wouldn't there be metal shavings or bb's in the oil. Drained it and strained it through a painters funnel and only found some carbon looks like. When I had it running the other day, both me and my buddy thought it was very obvious the noise was coming out of the rear cylinder, not the front. Should I go tear the front down and see what I see? Plus it is smoking like hell when I fired her up the other day..any suggestions would be great...I don't really know what I am looking for..but I sure hate to split the cases for nothing!!!
 

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You need to just tare the engine all the way down. You can check the rod bearings without splitting the case. You will have to split the case to check crank bearings. The smoke on start up is from bad valve seats or like VFJ said one may have came off. If I was you I go through the entire engine or just sale it.
 

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You will not see much in the oil,unless it was run for a long time.
I've replaced my rod bearings almost every time it was apart. It only cost a few bucks and take just a few minutes to do.
Once they go bad,a new crank is likely needed.
 

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are you sure its not your rocker arms that are ticking?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The rocker arms looked good to me. Glenn did the rocker mod when he had the heads. When I turn the crank there is a lot of slack in the piston movement and I hear a clunking sound at the bottom of the piston movement. Wrench turns about an 1/8th of a turn before the rear piston moves! I am going to take the jugs off tommorrow and see what else i can see. Still not sure where the smoke is coming from...the valve seats looked good and none of the vaves have dropped. I also had new seals installed and the seats redone while they were at glenns...guess I am just lucky.First time I have ever had a problem running mobil one synthetic though
 

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Damn it..... hope it gets fixed before New Years Day.
 

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You can't tell if the seats are bad or not just by looking at them unless it's ripped. You got the engine apart already just install new valve seats.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
the valve seats were just replaced 5 rides ago. do they need to be replaced again? I took off therear jug and it is definitely the rod or the rod bearing or the crank. The rod moves up and down about 1/2 an inch! So bf 750..how do I take a rod off without tearing the cases apart?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Will a brute force crank and rods work in the v? A guy I know up the road has 2 brute engines torn apart and will make me a good deal on them....
 

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Sent you a PM bentone.

Yea if you have that much play then your crank is more then likely junk as well. If I was you just split the case install new crank, bearings, rods, and rod bearings.

the valve seats were just replaced 5 rides ago. do they need to be replaced again?
If you are burning oil on start up then I'd guess your valve seats are bad. Then again if you had 1.5" of play in the rod it is very possible the piston and valves hit each other. I'd have the heads gone through to man.
 

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Will a brute force crank and rods work in the v? A guy I know up the road has 2 brute engines torn apart and will make me a good deal on them....
YES they will.
 
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