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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just started the rebuild last week after along time of unavailable funds and wishing:) Just doing a std bore build with weiscos and cwr mach 3 418 cams. The bore looked excellent(saying that with this beeing the only brute bore i had ever seen) to have over 260 hours and 1300miles on it.

I leak tested all the valves and the only valve that leaked was one intake and it was a very small leak. I ordered all new Kibblewhite stainless intakes because I hear the intake are the ones that usually go to shit.

I also plan on doing some minor milling on the head to get the weiscos to around a true 11.5:1. Have not decided on this yet though

I am probabbly going to take the lift off and put a smaller tire on it also since I did the mudd and deep water thing for the past 4 years and now seeing how almost everything squeeks and alot of things are getting rusty, might just go to a more trail orintated setup. Any way, we will see how it goes

I know its nothing crazy but it will be nice for me:D
 

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Your cylinder walls are to shiny you need to de glaze them. Do not hone! You have got to use an aluminum oxide flex hone "only" on nickel-plated cylinders.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
thanks man. I blan on buying the 240 grit ao flex hone for this. I talked to the guys at flex hone because i have accsess to about ten different flex hones but I believe they are all the silicon carbide ones. He said that the reason for having to use AO on the nickyl is becasue it is less appreasive than SC so if I had to use SC, use a finer grit such as 320 or such. Anyway, is still plan on using the 240 AO
 

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They told you right. I cant remember the grit I use but I have a few different flex hones I use in my shop when repairing dirt bikes/ATV's. They make an awesome product.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I am not at the moment because I know of some other bikes having the same setup and having no issues. Brutemankelley is running the same setup in his bike with know issues. If I decide to do any shaving off the head, i will check clearence to be sure no problems wil arrise.
 

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Are you concerned about piston to valve clearance?
I also run the Wiseco's and CWR 418's in my Brute 665 he will not have any issue's with piston to valve clearance. With the Wiseco pistons you can run up to a FST stage 3 or new style AMR xx cams as well.
 

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not the correct way to increase compression. Any gain you get would most likely be unnoticeable, for the very little compression you might increase it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
well I fiured that since the wiescos are not tru 11.5s then while I got it apart I would at least mill 20 thou off the heads to hopfully bring it as close as I could to 11.5
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Polishing the heads up alittle to take out the casting flaws would not be a bad idea would it? I know that porting with stock valves and carbs is usesless and does more bad than god, but I would assume that the heads are not 100 percent perfect and that I can get some good out of it?
 

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My heads and cylinders are shaved. Also I have extreme head porting with stock valves and carbs. You have seen the dyno sheet and when I'm racing it is still pulling real hard after 300 to the 1/8. The cams is a lot of that but the porting helps too. Mine does pretty good for a simple poor mans set up. It has over 2 years with no issues and the numbers dyno & times are pretty good. The big bores with stripped bikes and the perfered big name builder stuff is not showing that much better for the xtra money you spend and not knowing the realiability. I know my set up will last trail riding and drag racing spraying NOS. Mine does not set in the shop and look good it is rode very hard and put up wet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks kelly,

I want to do some porting but dont want to do more than needed and gain negative results. Where is the best place to remove material?
 

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Thanks kelly,

I want to do some porting but dont want to do more than needed and gain negative results. Where is the best place to remove material?
Get in touch with Randy there in Douglas. You can look at some he has and get a better idea.
 

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The big bores with stripped bikes and the perfered big name builder stuff is not showing that much better for the xtra money you spend and not knowing the realiability. I know my set up will last trail riding and drag racing spraying NOS. Mine does not set in the shop and look good it is rode very hard and put up wet.
you bringing it down here in March?

will be a lot of those down here from all those "preferred", big name builders. You'll have FST, Fundy, FCP, AMR, plus all the Can Am crowd

you gonna represent :)
 

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The big bores with stripped bikes and the perfered big name builder stuff is not showing that much better for the xtra money you spend and not knowing the realiability. I know my set up will last trail riding and drag racing spraying NOS. Mine does not set in the shop and look good it is rode very hard and put up wet.
you bringing it down here in March?

will be a lot of those down here from all those "preferred", big name builders. You'll have FST, Fundy, FCP, AMR, plus all the Can Am crowd

you gonna represent :)
If things work out here at the shop so I can afford the trip, I'm coming. Greg (Mr. RPM) really wants me to come with him. We talk about once a week now while we are not racing here. I really want to come and meet you guys if I can work out the funds. When operating a business you are locked down to it with these bad economic times. The Can Ams that are coming with Greg will tell us how it would have stacked up. We run weekly here starting in March.
The Outlander 1107 and mine last year was real close every race on motor. Unless I had a spinning problem I could usually beat him by a couple feet on motor. On spray it was not close. Now he has new cams & intakes, so he should be beating me on motor for sure now. I really thought that he should have before. Anyway let's hope for a big month in Feb.2010 so I can come and meet you guys. The racing is just an added atraction.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Would milling the heads and/or cylinders require me to install a adjustable cam sproket. Dont know if degreeing the cams is required after this is done?
 

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Would milling the heads and/or cylinders require me to install a adjustable cam sproket. Dont know if degreeing the cams is required after this is done?
No. Mine is not degreed, did not take that much off 10 to 15 thousands total. People try to make this sound like it is so technical that nobody can do it but them. Some of it is unnecessary. People ask me at the tracks what all I have done to mine, and when I tell them cams & high comp. pistons, CDI, & Muzzy, they are looking at me like I'm holding out. Then they ask if I was spraying, I show them the bottle in the truck, that I will put on later for outlaw races. They are expecting that big long list; +4 valves, big carbs., porting that is top secret, etc. What they really are suprized at is that it is still a trail machine when the wheelie bar is removed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Update,

I am in the process of getting everything back together now.

-I went with the CWR418s (thanks John)
-heads milled 20thou,
-some quick polishing and cleaning up of the ports,
-the cylinders honed up good,
-trying to get the dual intake snorkels done ( 1 full 3inch and an additional 2 in),
-getting the new Stainless kw intake valves in,
-Got the rear head drilled and tapped for catch can
-probably going to check the degree on the cams to make sure they are on just becasue the guy helping me with the build had his own drag bike shop for a lond time and can do it easily. If they are anymore than about 5 degrees out, probably going to slot them and get them right.

Wiseco is not very clear with the oriantaion of the pistons. They have FWD dots on them leading me to believe that both go towards the front of the bike. If that were the case, wouldnt they be cylinder specific? Also, the "M series" installation instruction supplied with the kit say to point the marks toward the exhaust ports, which is towards the rear on the rear cylinder! Its alittle confusing:(:confused::mad::(:confused::mad:.

Anyway, trying to get it back together this week. They tuning is going to suck with the dual intakes but John gave me some starting points. Sure wish I had a wideband!

Thanks for all the information yall give out, its very helpful from people who have done it before.
 
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