Kawasaki ATV Forum banner
1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
269 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Complete newbie here. I have never worked on an ATV before.

I have a 2011 Kawasaki Prairie 360 that runs flawlessly, but has never been serviced and has finally reached an estimated 100 hours. (I got it in new condition with about 10 hours on it.) So I have a few things I want/need to do:

1) Find out why it's always been so slow.
2) Clean/re-jet my carb.
3) Replace the drive belt
4) Adjust the valve clearance (Starting to take longer to warm up in colder weather)

My biggest concern is the carb work, and it being so slow. (@35mph) My 2005 would dust this one. When purchased, the PO said it sat for 4 years with old gas in it, and I should clean the carbs, but it ran flawlessly, so I never did.

Here are some questions:
  1. Is there a particular carb rebuild kit you guys would recommend? Any specific jets or orifices that improve performance, especially in the cold? Links would be appreciated!
  2. What else could restrict fuel flow or make it so slow? Fuel lines, maybe?
  3. A friend recommended that I go on Amazon, buy a $59 carb and keep riding. Does this seem like good advice? Do they perform the same?
All thoughts or comments are appreciated. I have no pride- tell me anything you think would help.

Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
IVe had 2 360's, one ran perfect and the other like poo poo when I got it. I went thru the carb 4 times and still it ran like it was in the limpy reverse mode. I bought a "Zoom Zoom" parts off Amazon for 35 and it worked great and ran it for a couple years until we parted ways.. Your problem could be jetting per elevation of where you ride. I think both my 360's would hit 50 or there abouts pretty easily. IMO carb kits are pretty subjective and most IMO are junk compared to OE parts. Unless the jets are plugged Id use the factory ones...period. Jets dont wear out necessarily. The pilot and its uber small passages can be replaced for $5 or so with a OE one. Id the needel is stepped from wear well then time to replace that and the mix tube as well. Cant speak for every carb as they are different but generally the bowl gasket is a must, new screws perhaps and the needle and seat most likely. The valves should be checked for good measure as you have no idea where they are. Starting to take longer to warm in cold weather? well sure it should. The belt should be inspected every 100 hrs and if your there you should be getting a belt light on your dash pretty soon that will need to be reset. Pull the cover,inspect, blow out all that crap in it and see where your at. Far as fuel restrictions and slow speeds. Could be a pulley/shiv issue, worn belt, bad/dirty carb system hard to say,100 hrs should not have worn outthe belt. My 04 700 is on 360 hrs and 1500 miles and the OE belt still and it looks and measures as new. 4 years with old gas didnt do it any favors, but you aid it runs like new. id say dig in a see what you find.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
269 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the thorough reply, Qtown.

I got an OEM belt and the removal tool. I'll keep the old one as a spare. Cheap insurance. I doubt there is anything wrong with it, but it's a decade old.

We are near sea level. The rivers are tidal in this area.

Wow... Now you have me thinking about an aftermarket carb. For that small amount, it might be worth doing, even if just while I rebuild the factory carbs.

Where can I get factory carb parts? Know of any good online parts stores?

Not thrilled with that idea of using the local rip-off dealer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
203 Posts
High speed requires full throttle. At full throttle your main jet is the primary one metering fuel. Main jets are easy to inspect and clean, just dont clean by trying to poke something thru the hole which may change the size (like a drill bit).

New belt is good idea.

I think these Kawie clutches require periodic lubrication. At least my 400 prairie does.

Valve adjust is a good idea.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
269 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Coldfinger, Just curious... how fast is your 400?

I had the identical 360, a 2005 vs 2011, and it was about 10 MPH faster than this one. (45 vs 35 mph) I figured the new machine just needed to break in, but it never got any better.

You said "High speed requires full throttle." That statement has me thinking. I wonder if the throttle cable can be adjusted? It feels, like the carb is not opening up fully, almost like it's in "kid mode." I'll look carefully when I open up the carbs to take a look.

Thanks for the reply!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
I buy 99% of my OEM and aftermarket parts from Rocky Mountain ATV. There are places such as Sudco, Jets are us ?? for OEM carb parts. The likes of Dyna jet kits IMO are junk. You get a box of "here try this" bastard size parts and a needle made of brass that will wear and gets steps in it making jetting harder to dial in. Stick with OEM stuff so you know where you are at. RMATV will also show what size it came with for reference if somebody jacked with the carb in the past and its way off. You'll have to create a log in and user for the OEM section though. The China carbs are a mixed bag perhaps. Ive had good results with 3 and fair results with 1. For $35 for a spare to try out, what the heck. IIRC the ones made by CK were pretty good. far better then $500 for an OEM replacement if your not sure what the problem is.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,513 Posts
DO NOT LUBE ANYTHING ON YOUR CLUTCHES . They need to be clean, dry and no lubricants anywhere. Well actually the secondary has a tiny bit of lube inside it, but you need to read up on that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
203 Posts
My 400, at 1000’ with stock size tires and recommended inflation can go 45-50 on odometer. All stock except Comet primary clutch which was not installed for more performance, rather, to replace my oem clutch which had wavy faces.

My 400 has a throttle limiter screw on throttle housing, which is adjustable. Maybe you have same thing…
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
64 Posts
IIRC= if I remember correctly. "CK" was the name in raised lettering on the side of the better carbs Ive bought. Im guessin out of the endless amazon/ebay carb vendors, 90 % are made by the same Chinese manufacturer.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
103 Posts
Complete newbie here. I have never worked on an ATV before.

I have a 2011 Kawasaki Prairie 360 that runs flawlessly, but has never been serviced and has finally reached an estimated 100 hours. (I got it in new condition with about 10 hours on it.) So I have a few things I want/need to do:

1) Find out why it's always been so slow.
2) Clean/re-jet my carb.
3) Replace the drive belt
4) Adjust the valve clearance (Starting to take longer to warm up in colder weather)

My biggest concern is the carb work, and it being so slow. (@35mph) My 2005 would dust this one. When purchased, the PO said it sat for 4 years with old gas in it, and I should clean the carbs, but it ran flawlessly, so I never did.

Here are some questions:
  1. Is there a particular carb rebuild kit you guys would recommend? Any specific jets or orifices that improve performance, especially in the cold? Links would be appreciated!
  2. What else could restrict fuel flow or make it so slow? Fuel lines, maybe?
  3. A friend recommended that I go on Amazon, buy a $59 carb and keep riding. Does this seem like good advice? Do they perform the same?
All thoughts or comments are appreciated. I have no pride- tell me anything you think would help.

Thanks!
I recently started rebuilding my carbs and I was of course intimidated at first,but honestly it was very easy.Go slow get a rebuild kit take out one jet at a time and match with the new one in rebuild kit and replace it as u take them out. That is how I did it also take pitcures with your phone do not just remove all the jets at once.Also go slow have a clean table and be very easy with the float you dont want to change the height, on the float push the pin through that holds the float and take out float jet clean or replace it I would replace it and just put it back exactly how u took it out being careful not to bend the tab that adjusts height if you do change the height there are a few easy ways to set it back you will need the manual but again just be really careful.As far as buying a cheap amazon carb I keep one as emergancy backup but I have used many of them its generally the fuel that messes up any carb its all ethanol that gums them up I use Startron and Truefuel in my quads especially after rebuilding the carbs and I would rather run a OEM carb anyday over a cheapo carb. I use TrueFuel its a little expesive but my quads never ran as good as they do now with rebuilt OEM carbs and 100% Ethanol free fuel. Hope this helps you
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
103 Posts
Thanks for the thorough reply, Qtown.

I got an OEM belt and the removal tool. I'll keep the old one as a spare. Cheap insurance. I doubt there is anything wrong with it, but it's a decade old.

We are near sea level. The rivers are tidal in this area.

Wow... Now you have me thinking about an aftermarket carb. For that small amount, it might be worth doing, even if just while I rebuild the factory carbs.

Where can I get factory carb parts? Know of any good online parts stores?

Not thrilled with that idea of using the local rip-off dealer.
rocky mountain atv also go on ebay I found a OEM carb for my Lakotta for 200$ and a rebuild kit for 20$ and got myself a 500$ OEM carb for less then half price and taught myself how to rebuild my carb and my machine runs amazing for the last few months Shindy makes a soild rebuild kit Chineese carbs are good spares but nothing beats a clean OEM carb and use Startron or Truefuel you have to keep the Ethanol out of your carb! Check ur fuel filters also
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top