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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I spent the last 2.5 hours trying to remove the front left knuckle. I removed the caliper, removed the hub, removed the tie rod, and now all i have to do is seperate the top and bottom A-arms from the knuckle, and i'll be good to go (need to remove the front left axle to replace a CV boot that's torn).

I don't know what to do... i've tried everything. EVERYTHING i can think of. I don't have fancy power tools, but i have a hammer, jack, screwdrivers, wrenches, etc...

I also have the service manual, and the way the service manual says it makes it seem easy - put a nut on the top thread (did that) and 'tap' it and it should fall right off. Well mine's not.

See:



To explain what i have currently: The bike is on jack stands, but I've also rigged the jack to push the upper a-arm up. About 3 inches, until the spring compresses fully and the rest of the bike starts to raise up (if that makes sense).

I'm out of ideas guys, and really, really wanted to go riding tomorrow evening :( :( :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
oh, and the reason the nut's wet (no ****) is because when i left (right before i took the picturs) i drenched the top and bottom ones in WD40, hoping it would loosen them for when i try again tomorrow morning
 

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They are a press fit. Pry up on the upper control arm and with one swift blow from a hammer on the side where the BJ goes through, it'll pop off. OK, maybe two hits.

Remember... side shot. Don't hit the ball joint itself.
 

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On the control arm at the end where the BJ stud goes through.
 

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there is a special tool available for that!!

nope dont have one yet, so cant post pics!!:lol:

might be worth it, to prevent damaging any thing else!!

self would get that tool!!:D



edit:
just remembered, do have the one type of tool for that, its almost like a forked wedge!!

need to go out now, will try to take and post a pic in a few hrs, when I'm back!! local time 08H11 in the morning, early here!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
and it's tough hitting something at the end of the control arm and NOT hitting the ball joint - there isn't much room
 

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it should come off just by smacking on the nut....make sure you hit it squarely.

You may apply a little heat, not to much though

you need to make sure though that the a-arm is firmly supported, so as you hit the nut/stud, the force is transmitted through the stud and not to the a-arm
 

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this is the toolI was talking about, bought it to work on the cars, should work just as well on the quads!!

hope this helps!!









:D
 

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What tool? You forgot the pic. :p

If it's the "fork" style separater, they work well but rip the dust boot everytime.
 

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They are a press fit. Pry up on the upper control arm and with one swift blow from a hammer on the side where the BJ goes through, it'll pop off. OK, maybe two hits.

Remember... side shot. Don't hit the ball joint itself.
Looking at your pics again... with your front shock attatched and the bottom supported under the frame and not the control arm, you'll want to put a pry bar in the lower arm and push down, then smack the lower arm. Once that BJ is separated, pry down on the knuckle and smack the upper control arm to separate it.
 

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What tool? You forgot the pic. :p

If it's the "fork" style separater, they work well but rip the dust boot everytime.

I can see the pics that I posted!!! even did a preview before posting!!
wonder if others also cant see it????

yep its the fork type, there is another type of tool available that I have seen!! dont have one yet!!:lol:

if it means damaging the dust boot and replacing the dust boot and saving damaging something else, self would rather damage the boot!!

maybe next time on assembly use some copper slip grease, its anti cease!!

:D
 

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If you just need to take your axle out.
Take the bottom bolt out of shock and push shock up and out of the way.
Then unbolt your a arms and remove them and axle.
I think it is faster and you don't chance messing up your BJ's.
 

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If you are affraid of missing and hitting something else and causing damage you can go to an auto parts store and rent a tierod end remover.the quad balljoint is small enough to use it instead of a auto balljoint tool which will be too big.It look kind of like a c-clamp with the end forked so it will fit under the a-arm and the fork goes around the balljoint shaft.Then the screw part presses down on the end of the stud and pushes it thru the a-arm.This is alot better than the fork toll that you hit with a hammer because sometimes that one will tear the balljoint boot.
 

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If you are affraid of missing and hitting something else and causing damage you can go to an auto parts store and rent a tierod end remover.the quad balljoint is small enough to use it instead of a auto balljoint tool which will be too big.It look kind of like a c-clamp with the end forked so it will fit under the a-arm and the fork goes around the balljoint shaft.Then the screw part presses down on the end of the stud and pushes it thru the a-arm.This is alot better than the fork toll that you hit with a hammer because sometimes that one will tear the balljoint boot.

thanx for the description, that is the exact tool that I have seen!!

that will be better then the forque that posted the pics of!!

self believe its worth getting one!!:D
 
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