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HP numbers after Muzzy and Bartlett mods

11K views 86 replies 31 participants last post by  dmoell  
#1 ·
Here is the setup 2004 KFX 700 (purchased in Feb 2003) completely stock bike with fresh Mobil 1 oil and NGK plugs and a Dalton Orange – Blue clutch spring (stock weights, no O/D cover). Only external engine mods were performed for the testing, no clutch changes were made at all. This was on VForceJohn’s DynoJet Dyno in PA. All runs were done inside with temp ~ 65* and no setup changes were made to the dyno between runs. All runs after the Muzzy was installed were done with the Air/Fuel probe of the dyno inserted into the exhaust to allow for tuning A/F mixture through the carbs.

Here is the mod list (BTW, all mod parts are new):
Bartlett airbox mod (using Twin Air instead of K+N air filter)
Muzzy 2 into 1 exhaust
Dyna CDI

Before anyone says anything about CVT’s and dyno testing, my objective was to see a definitive power increase based on my mods and to be able to tune my A/F ratio properly. I understand that the numbers the dyno kicked out may not have been 100% accurate because of the CVT. However, there is no denying that with my baseline run and keeping all parameters the same throughout (except for adding mods), that the dyno can clearly show if a mod is making horsepower or not.

Dyno Runs 1-9 listed, second number is rear wheel horsepower (rwhp)
1 35.69 Stock bike (Stock bike with Dalton O/B spring)
2 36.52 Stock bike plus Dyna CDI only (gained 1hp and 1 lb/ft torque)
3 40.29 Muzzy, Twin Air, Stock CDI didn't count, A/F probe blew out
4 41.16 Muzzy, Twin Air, Stock CDI (B/C Jets from Bartlett kit)
5 41.45 Muzzy, Twin Air, Stock CDI (C/D Jets from Bartlett kit)
6 41.82 Muzzy, Twin Air, Stock CDI (Drilled main jets)
7 41.22 Muzzy, Twin Air, Dyna CDI (Drilled main jets larger)
8 41.43 Muzzy, Twin Air, Dyna CDI (Drilled main jets even larger)
9 41.52 Muzzy, Twin Air, Stock CDI (same jets as run 8)

The last 4 runs were made in pretty quick succession with no cool down time for the bike. They were all made within about 15-20 minutes. I suspect a cooler bike at the end would have probably netted me ~ 41.9 to 42 hp on my last run.

Lessons learned?
You should jet up at least one size when running the Dyna CDI and any airbox or exhaust mods. The Dyna CDI made my bike run leaner. On a stock bike, it put’s the Air/Fuel ratio much closer to where it should be to make power from the factory. Stock, the bike made 1 more hp and 1 more lb/ft of torque with the Dyna CDI and brought the A/F ratio up closer to the 12-13 range (instead of the 11-12 from the factory). Personally, I don’t think you will ever come close to using the extra rpm from the Dyna CDI over the stock rev limiter unless you go inside the motor and do some mods.

There are currently no jets available to make the bike rich enough with a Twin Air element (with Bartlett’s airbox mod) and Muzzy exhaust. My jets were drilled with a 3/16” bit to get them as close as possible. It is still a touch lean but not dangerously so.
This part is my opinion (because the dyno does not lie), but it seemed to me that even though the Dyna made less horsepower than the stock CDI, the bike went through the upper RPM’s faster with the Dyna CDI on than with the stock CDI. By the time it get’s to that point during the dyno run, the clutch shifting can really change the output. John explained to me the acceleration vs. time settings on the dyno while he was setting it up, but I didn’t even think to check and see if they were different during the runs with the Dyna CDI. That may have given us a clearer picture of what was happening in the upper RPM range with the Dyna. It may very well have been accelerating faster, but the clutch may have made it almost impossible to see. Even though it made less power, I am inclined to believe that the “sweet spot” for the Dyna may very well be in the upper RPM range by holding the timing longer than stock. I will only be able to test this with a seat of the pants run.

I will post a few pics of the dyno runs if anyone wants to see them. Along with some pics of my naked V-Force on VForceJohn’s Dyno.

I would love to hear everyone's feedback.

Thanks,
chris
 
#3 ·
Hey Chris, that a good read B) . As you said, it's real more about your increase numbers more than the actual numbers on the dyno. Sure looks like a decent increase for your investment. Curious about the A/F with the Bartlett c/d main jets. Did you find it terribly lean ? I ask because I have the same set up as you ( different spring + K+N) with the Muzzy 2-1 exhaust, Dynatek CDI and a Bartlett airbox. I've been holding off on the airbox install due to the cold as I really don't want to lean it out with the temps in the single digits.
 
#6 ·
Did you run any test with stock airbox & muzzy's?? I would be curious to see how much of that incease is from the each.

Thanks and nice job.
 
#8 ·
There are currently no jets available to make the bike rich enough with a Twin Air element (with Bartlett’s airbox mod) and Muzzy exhaust. My jets were drilled with a 3/16” bit to get them as close as possible.



once you get to this point or add pistons cams ect you will need dial a jets or bigger carbs ..... :(

p.s. good job .... thats good hp numbers .. 17% is not shabby
 
#9 ·
BigSaint,
A/F was in the mid to upper 14's with the biggest jets from Bartlett and CDI. Keep in mind that Bartlett has said that it will run leaner with the stock or a foam filter (like the Twin Air) as uppossed to the K&N. I will also note that on those runs, you could visibly see the exhaust turning red from the heat at the cylinders. When we stepped up the jetting, the A/F numbers came down and the pipes didn't "glow" anymore. For my application, the jets in Barts kit were not big enough, however, keep in mind that I am using a foam filter and not K&N as he recommends.

JSlabotsky,
Run number one was totally stock with an almost 2 year old bike with fresh Mobil One synthetic and NGK plugs and nothing else. It was completely stock except for the Dalton O/B spring. Hell, it still even had the stock air filter! LOL

J&J,
No runs with just the Muzzy. It would have taken too much time to get the jetting right, only to change it again with the airbox mods. As it was, John and I had this thing strapped down on his Dyno for 5.5 hours on Sunday doing the mods and checking performance.

On that note, I must thank VForceJohn for all his help and willingness to do different test runs with different combo's. While Dyno and tuning time does not come cheap, he really did take care of me as far as the cost considering what most people charge or dyno time and tuning, especially to be working on this thing from 10am to 3:30 on a Sunday. He really knows his way around the V, not to mention the other 5 or 6 quads sitting in his shop. Thanks VForceJohn!!!

chris
 
#10 ·
Bartlett, thanks for the Kudos. I must also say your jets where right on as far as the A/F line goes. You hit it spot on with your combos as far as even fuel delivery. My A/F line was lean (which I figured it would be based on your recommendations of the K&N) but it was almost perfectly smooth throughout the entire run. When we put your jet combo's in, the bike started and ran smooth as silk. I could see you put a lot of research into it.

Even if your "actual" jet sizes are top secret!! LOL Anyone who has a Bartlett airbox knows what I'm talking about.

BTW, I think for the R&D that went into the kit, your price was fair, especially for someone who is a novice tuner that does not have access to a Wideband A/F guage like the Dyno has.

***Note to Bartlett Airbox customers, stick with his setup and the K&N, follow his directions to the T and you will have a pretty sweet setup that will start easily and run extremely smooth.***

chris
 
#14 ·
Just a thought, any time you drill jets out to 3/16, there must be restriction after jets.
I've messed with motors for over 45 years & never had to go that far. even with alcohol. double jet size (.60 to .120) should pass 4 times the fuel. Looks like these
are almost maxxed out at 200 size jets. Would different nozzle in carb help? Thanks
for posting tests, nice job, jerry
 
#16 ·
i found if you drill out jets they loose there taper and wont work as good. and if you are drilling them out that far, there is probaly no taper left, just staight thru.
 
#17 ·
Yea it does seem a little low? :unsure: . Like mjohnson97045 said I thought John went from 35 Stock to 43 with just the Muzzy, Stock Air box and re-jetting??

Also?
I always thought the k&N offer more air flow then a properly oiled foam filter??

~coop
 
#18 ·
Welcome to the world of the cvt The only way to get a true reading would be off the crank. Through more clutch tuning he could probably get some more gains but I dont think he'd see much more in performance, unless he's willing to let Helix or someone else who specializes in cvt's work it over.
 
#19 ·
Originally posted by Bigun@Jan 19 2005, 01:47 PM
Welcome to the world of the cvt The only way to get a true reading would be off the crank. Through more clutch tuning he could probably get some more gains but I dont think he'd see much more in performance, unless he's willing to let Helix or someone else who specializes in cvt's work it over.
Don't go there

You'll get shot around these parts with that opinion Bigun.

The last time I said you couldn't attain accurate HP numbers with a CVT on a chassis dyno a war broke out.
 
#22 ·
Killer Yeah I know but that has been my experience with CVT's Polaris and Kawi. I'm not knocking anyone and plan to have mine Dyno'd soon. I think if we can find out the peak hp rpm then talk to Rick Ritter or Helix maybe we can get our CVT"s tuned to perfection. Or get Dalton to work with our peak #'s and come up with a spring with minimum stall that matches the power curve more efficiently. I know there has got to be more potential in this unit for performance that everyone can use. And for you big bore folks maybe Mickey and Helix could get together and come up with something. He also said that the only mod to the CVT was the Or/Bl spring ,With the full dalton kit I think his #'s may have been a little better.
 
#23 ·
Originally posted by Bigun@Jan 19 2005, 03:46 PM
Killer Yeah I know but that has been my experience with CVT's Polaris and Kawi. I'm not knocking anyone and plan to have mine Dyno'd soon. I think if we can find out the peak hp rpm then talk to Rick Ritter or Helix maybe we can get our CVT"s tuned to perfection. Or get Dalton to work with our peak #'s and come up with a spring with minimum stall that matches the power curve more efficiently. I know there has got to be more potential in this unit for performance that everyone can use. And for you big bore folks maybe Mickey and Helix could get together and come up with something. He also said that the only mod to the CVT was the Or/Bl spring ,With the full dalton kit I think his #'s may have been a little better.
I agree 100% Bigun.....
 
#24 ·
Hey guys, if you need more fuel you just have to change the needles. With stk needles and no shims, once you go past a 180 main you don't get much more fuel. ie: going from 180's to 200's is a very very small change but going from 180's to 170's is a lot. With Dynajet needles you can add fuel up to about a 190-195 main, then you can take the main jet out and won't get much more fuel. The open area between the needle and the nozzle won't flow anymore. If you still need more fuel you just have to come up with a needle to suit.
Just bear in mind, the more you free up airflow the more sensative your jetting will become to temp and pressure changes.
ie: When we ran stk carbs with 198/200 mains with a vented airbox I never change jets from race to race.
When we changed carbs and started running just a K&N my jetting has to change big time with the weather.
Ray
 
#25 ·
I have talked to Helix at lenght about this.Then he goes into clutch mode and I'm like :blink: .LOL We need a entire new clutch to get more out of it.Those who sled compare your clutch to the V clutch.It's much bigger from what I understand.Commet was working on a clutch but never heard anything more about it.
 
#26 ·
Shotgun,
When John sent me the files, I can't get the torque to show up in the Dynojet software window. I sent him an email so he can tell me what I'm doing wrong. As soon as I hear back from him I'll post the torque #'s.


Baldy,
I think you and DynoRay are both on the same track. I think once you get beyond a certain point it doesn't matter how big you make the hole in the main, it just can't get any more gas around the needle through the hole in the carb bore. I will experiment with that when I get a chance.



MJohnson,
You are correct. That HP number was a bit lower than I expected but I can't get enough fuel into the machine with the setup I have to get the A/F ratio rich enough to make more power. When VForceJohn did his, he was not running the airbox it as open as I am now. His V was sitting about 15' away from the dyno while we were tuning. I will follow DynoRay's advice and try the DynoJet needles. The smaller needle would definitely open up space to allow more fuel to flow.


Flht3,
Yup, they are straight through. We lost the taper and needle seat by drilling them so big.


DynoRay,
Thanks for the heads up on the needles, that is an excellent idea. I will pursue this over the next few months.

I would really like to get the A/F where it should be and give the Dyna CDI another chance.


Thanks everyone for your input and idea's.

chris