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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 07 Brute Force 650i and was hunting in some below 0 weather this weekend. It was hard to start so while it was still on the trailer strapped down I got it to fire and gave it some throtle. I noticed a little burning smell and noticed it was in high... wasnt trying to move because it was strapped down. When I got on and started riding there was a sort of grinding slapping sound coming from the right (throtle side) of the engine. Drove a little ways to make sure it wasnt the cold and the belt light started blinking and it went into safe mode. Now even in neutral it has a slapping sound.
Is this the belt and if it is.... should I replace it myself? I'm pretty mech. inclined work on vehicles or used to before they went crazy with the new stuff. Will I need any special tools (been reading about some clutch tool)? And is there a heavy duty belt that anyone recommends (I keep seeing carslile belts). Dealer wants about 160.00 to do it charging 102.24 for the belt. I did buy an extended warranty on this machine but dont think they will replace the belt. I've had it 3 years in Febuary and it has 600 miles on it. Thanks for any info or pointers anyone might have.
 

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hello i replaced my belt twice {both times my fault} you have to buy the primary tool i think its about 35.00 thru epi you need to buy a manual for your bike i think i paid about 80.00 from kawasaki its a good manual.if you can work on your own stuff buy the manual.you have to reset the switch under the cover i read that the factory belts are the best. a friend of mine bought a highlifter belt.but he had to reshim the secondary clutch do a search on replacng belt its hard for me to explain everything
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Novass... I appreciate it. I will check into the manuals and the tools. And I never thought about an aftermarket belt fitting different so I will stick with the factory one.
 

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i dought if your dealer will replace your belt under warranty,if i remember i8 paid 80.00 for my belt at a kawasaki dealer. i have 30" mud lites iride in bad conditions if you get stuck in reverse dont horse it the belt will smoke right away always put it in low if you are in bad mud etc that saves the belt hope i was some help.
 

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The best belt is OEM. The slappiing is the belt comming apart. Buy the primary puller. Looks like a long bolt. Hopefully you wont have to change the shims not hard just more work. If so look up how to make a home made secondary compressor. Really easy to do. I did it myself.
 

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yes you need to change the belt, use an oem belt. While it is possible to change the belt without pulling the clutch, (rolling it on to the clutch) it's easier to use the puller and pop off the clutch.
 

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Nothing against OE belts, they are great,fit and work terrific but i work for Gates Rubber Co and we supply an incredible OEM belt for our Brutes for a lot less cash, i have roughly 1300 miles on mine with no issues at all. It's a Xtreme Powerlink Belt, constructed of 100% Kevlar, incredibly durable. Truth be known,Gates supplies the OE with Apprx 85% of belts they use, just private labeled for resale, we also make every drive belt for Harley Davidson so quaility is important. Look on the web at www.Gates.com
 
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