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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just picked up an 06 Brute force 650, 1800kms, bone stock.

Took it for a quick spin before i bought it and all seemed fine.

Once i got it home after riding for 20 mins or so, the coolant temp light started flashing, checked coolant level and it was fine, felt the rad, wasn't even warm.

Shut it down, pulled the oil filler and there was steam/smoke coming out. Fired it up and pulled the cap again and the crankcase is def pressurized, am I looking at a head gasket? Piston rings? I don't know a thing about small engines, but i know on my cars pressure on the bottom end is BAD news. If it is a head gasket, whats it gonna cost me for parts and labour?
 

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if you bought it from a dealer (or any sort of a garage) it will be under warranty
he has to cover it for 30 days minimun

all else it a 30/30 (30 feet or 30 seconds)
 

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what do you mean the crank case is preasurerized? need more info on that? and when you say cap,do you mean the radiator cap? if so its soposed to have preasure on it! is the fan coming on? take the cap off and start the bike! by doing that it will let all the air outa the system. the coolant level should drop when u start it! top it off and then see if it still over heats! ive seen brutes over heat because of air in the system. b4 i would look @ the top end i would change the thermastat and install a temp gage and see if it indeed is overheating! also wash the red out really good!! it dont take much to make a brute over heat!! you my also want to look into racking the raditior!!
 

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These things have mega crankcase pressure. Its normal for it to shoot oil out of the filler hole if you take it out. I would take a temp reading of the engine, around the head or t-stat housing while running it to see how hot its getting. Could be a bad sensor, or wire shorting out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yes, i was talking about crankcase pressure, not coolant pressure. I will fire it up tomorrow and see if it's just air in the system, it would seem that would probably make sense because the rad doesn't appear to be getting hot at all.

And no, private sale but the guy seems willing to work with me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
What plastics do i have to pull to access the t-stat?

And a few Newb questions, if there is a thread already dedicated to this just point me in that direction

-Is it normal for it to sputter if i give it a lot of gas in reverse, as in some kind of speed cut or something? It seems to run perfect in all forward gears

-There is a weird mecanical clicking/whining on the left hand side(when looking from the front) after i shut this off, i assume this is normal?

-What should i be running for oil in a cold climate, and warm? Obviously there will be brand preferences, but i'm just looking for general opinions on viscocity etc.

Is there a place where i can find factory recommended service intervals, as well as an online owners manual?

Sorry for all the dumb questions, as i said if there is a place they've been covered before i apologize.
 

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What plastics do i have to pull to access the t-stat?

And a few Newb questions, if there is a thread already dedicated to this just point me in that direction

-Is it normal for it to sputter if i give it a lot of gas in reverse, as in some kind of speed cut or something? It seems to run perfect in all forward gears

-There is a weird mecanical clicking/whining on the left hand side(when looking from the front) after i shut this off, i assume this is normal?

-What should i be running for oil in a cold climate, and warm? Obviously there will be brand preferences, but i'm just looking for general opinions on viscocity etc.

Is there a place where i can find factory recommended service intervals, as well as an online owners manual?

Sorry for all the dumb questions, as i said if there is a place they've been covered before i apologize.
There is a reverse limiter and noise you hear is the electric brake disengaging, all normal.

Plastic on right side as you sit on it where the thermostat is

Remember anytime someone mentions sides it is as you sit on it.
 

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oil- 0 degrees and below -- 5w 30
-10 up to 30 degrees --10w 30
-10 up to 40 degrees --10w 40
0 to 40+ degrees -- 10w 50
0 to 40 degrees --20w 40
0 and up --20w 50

The kawi place put 10w 40 in it when I bought it . I used 20w 50 when i changed. temp in summer are way hot here in texas . thats why I gave u a list to refer to that came out of manual. It depends on what your temps average around where u live.

the service book wants u to change oil every 100 hrs (I think) I change mine every 50.I'd rather change early, 100 hrs seems too long .

remember the only dumb question is the one never asked..
 

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What plastics do i have to pull to access the t-stat?

And a few Newb questions, if there is a thread already dedicated to this just point me in that direction

-Is it normal for it to sputter if i give it a lot of gas in reverse, as in some kind of speed cut or something? It seems to run perfect in all forward gears

-There is a weird mecanical clicking/whining on the left hand side(when looking from the front) after i shut this off, i assume this is normal?

-What should i be running for oil in a cold climate, and warm? Obviously there will be brand preferences, but i'm just looking for general opinions on viscocity etc.

Is there a place where i can find factory recommended service intervals, as well as an online owners manual?

Sorry for all the dumb questions, as i said if there is a place they've been covered before i apologize.
It has a limiter on the reverse.. There is a grey button on the handlebars that says override. Push it and go.. As for the whining noise when you turn it off, that is the engine break actuator, it is perfectly normal, they all do that..A dynatek cdi will bypass that reverse override too..
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
This is a fantastic forum, thanks everyone for the quick, informative responses. I've determined that the fan is not coming on, i'll test the fan switch first and then have a look at the Buss connectors.


Also picked up a PDF service manual last night for $5, hopefully that should help me find my way around this thing
 

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If the thermostat is stuck closed, then the engine wil get hot but the radiator wont because the coolant isn't getting thru it .I would check that first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ya, thats where i'm heading, just tested the fan and unless it's a bad switch, the fan and wiring are all fine. Gonna check the tstat right away
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Well, i let it run without the cap to let any air out, put the cap on and took it for a 3 min ride. about 2 min in the light started flashing again, coolant is circulating so it's not t-stat, fan is coming on as well. Any ideas, now i'm stumped?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I should also note, the overflow tank is bubling, so it's not a fualty temp sensor or anything like that
 

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Make sure the radiator is not stopped up. Hard to tell sometimes. Put a light behind it and make sure it's clear.
 

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sounds like you got a LEMON! was this a personal buy or a dealer?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Its a personal sale run thru his buddies dealership. He's willing to work with me, i'm taking it back and we'll see whats wrong with it. He's not being a dick about it, so that's a start.

Am i wrong at thinking this could be a blown HG? It runs fine otherwise, no coolant in the oil or vice versa, If it is the HG, whats that gonna cost to repair? Is it something i can tackle at home?
 
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