I'm surprised to see everyone running these large jets into the 185 / 182 range. I could maybe see that on engines with stage 2 or 3 cams or with major head work done on them. Just seems too rich for stock top end components even with full exhaust and air box mods.KACR Inspection
The Kawasaki Automatic Compression Release (KACR) momentarily opens the exhaust valves on the compression stroke at very low speeds. This allows some of the compression pressure to escape, making it easy to turn over the engine during starting. Due to the simplicity of the mechanism, no periodic maintenance is needed. There are only two symptoms of problems with the KACR mechanism [A]: compression is not released during starting, and compression is released during running.
Thank you for your answer-but I don’t get any smoke at all, might have to do compression test although don’t see how it would be running “right” if I didn’t have enough compression- it’s running really good but I got no power, might have to try that , thank youSounds like you're chasing a gremlin without having some basic engine tests. Compression check would be the first thing to examine if it's lost power over time. Could be worn piston rings. Is there any white or blue smoking out the exhaust when you rev it? If there is, that's a really bad sign. i.e. - blown head gasket, but doubtful it would even stay running with a blown head gasket.
How's the mesh filter inside the fuel tank? Maybe that's starving it for fuel?
The only other thing I can think of is the KACR (Kawasaki Automatic Compression Release.) If the KACR springs on the cams are worn out (or damaged) and the system allowing the compression release to stay active above low RPMs, it would really rob you of power.
I'm surprised to see everyone running these large jets into the 185 / 182 range. I could maybe see that on engines with stage 2 or 3 cams or with major head work done on them. Just seems too rich for stock top end components even with full exhaust and air box mods.
HMF recommends #145 front / #148 rear for their full exhaust system. That's what I'm using on a 2005 with the air box hole mods, Dyna FS ignition, and full HMF pipes. It's a freshly rebuild top end + big bore kit (timing chains, water / oil pump, etc. replaced as well) and it runs like a champ. I have to really be careful on the pavement because the front end wants to come up so quickly on acceleration.
This is the troubleshooting list from the repair manual:
Poor Running or No Power at High Speed:
Firing incorrect:Spark plug dirty, broken, or maladjustedSpark plug cap or high tension lead troubleSpark plugSpark plug incorrectCrankshaft sensor troubleIgniter troubleIgnition coil troubleFuel/air mixture incorrect:Main jet clogged or wrong sizeJet needle or needle jet wornMain air jet cloggedBleed holes of air bleed pipe or needle jetcloggedFuel level too high or too lowAir cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, or missingChoke plunger stuck openWater or foreign matter in fuelCarburetor holder looseAir cleaner duct looseFuel tank air vent obstructedFuel tap cloggedFuel line cloggedCompression low:Spark plug looseCylinder head not sufficiently tightened downNo valve clearanceCylinder, piston wornPiston rings bad (worn, weak, broken, or sticking)Piston ring/groove clearance excessiveCylinder head gasket damagedCylinder head warpedValve spring broken or weakValve not seating properly (valve bent, worn, or carbon accumulation on the seating surface.)Compression release cam (K.A.C.R.) sticks open (Engine stalls when moving off)
I know timing isn’t retarded as I’ve changed timing chains about 2/3 months ago and set them and cams rightit can.
however you need to rule it out.
your timing could be retarded also.
might new cdi box
Belt is oem Kawasaki is not that old and just “re-tighten” the belt this past weekend,I’ve lifted the back wheels of the ground and front and spinner them and it seems fineyou put on a new belt?
make sure brakes are not dragging?