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Discussion Starter #21
front cylinder 182?
rear 185?
I was thinking maybe I should try “delete” 12 hole mod see if it will help.. so with dual LTE’s I should be 180 front and rear without the airbox lid- at least that’s what I read on this forum


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Sounds like you're chasing a gremlin without having some basic engine tests. Compression check would be the first thing to examine if it's lost power over time. Could be worn piston rings. Is there any white or blue smoking out the exhaust when you rev it? If there is, that's a really bad sign. i.e. - blown head gasket, but doubtful it would even stay running with a blown head gasket.

How's the mesh filter inside the fuel tank? Maybe that's starving it for fuel?
The only other thing I can think of is the KACR (Kawasaki Automatic Compression Release.) If the KACR springs on the cams are worn out (or damaged) and the system allowing the compression release to stay active above low RPMs, it would really rob you of power.

KACR Inspection
The Kawasaki Automatic Compression Release (KACR) momentarily opens the exhaust valves on the compression stroke at very low speeds. This allows some of the compression pressure to escape, making it easy to turn over the engine during starting. Due to the simplicity of the mechanism, no periodic maintenance is needed. There are only two symptoms of problems with the KACR mechanism [A]: compression is not released during starting, and compression is released during running.
I'm surprised to see everyone running these large jets into the 185 / 182 range. I could maybe see that on engines with stage 2 or 3 cams or with major head work done on them. Just seems too rich for stock top end components even with full exhaust and air box mods.

HMF recommends #145 front / #148 rear for their full exhaust system. That's what I'm using on a 2005 with the air box hole mods, Dyna FS ignition, and full HMF pipes. It's a freshly rebuild top end + big bore kit (timing chains, water / oil pump, etc. replaced as well) and it runs like a champ. I have to really be careful on the pavement because the front end wants to come up so quickly on acceleration.

This is the troubleshooting list from the repair manual:

Poor Running or No Power at High Speed:
Firing incorrect:
Spark plug dirty, broken, or maladjusted
Spark plug cap or high tension lead trouble
Spark plug
Spark plug incorrect
Crankshaft sensor trouble
Igniter trouble
Ignition coil trouble
Fuel/air mixture incorrect:
Main jet clogged or wrong size
Jet needle or needle jet worn
Main air jet clogged
Bleed holes of air bleed pipe or needle jet
clogged
Fuel level too high or too low
Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, or missing
Choke plunger stuck open
Water or foreign matter in fuel
Carburetor holder loose
Air cleaner duct loose
Fuel tank air vent obstructed
Fuel tap clogged
Fuel line clogged
Compression low:
Spark plug loose
Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down
No valve clearance
Cylinder, piston worn
Piston rings bad (worn, weak, broken, or sticking)
Piston ring/groove clearance excessive
Cylinder head gasket damaged
Cylinder head warped
Valve spring broken or weak
Valve not seating properly (valve bent, worn, or carbon accumulation on the seating surface.)
Compression release cam (K.A.C.R.) sticks open (Engine stalls when moving off)
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Sounds like you're chasing a gremlin without having some basic engine tests. Compression check would be the first thing to examine if it's lost power over time. Could be worn piston rings. Is there any white or blue smoking out the exhaust when you rev it? If there is, that's a really bad sign. i.e. - blown head gasket, but doubtful it would even stay running with a blown head gasket.

How's the mesh filter inside the fuel tank? Maybe that's starving it for fuel?
The only other thing I can think of is the KACR (Kawasaki Automatic Compression Release.) If the KACR springs on the cams are worn out (or damaged) and the system allowing the compression release to stay active above low RPMs, it would really rob you of power.



I'm surprised to see everyone running these large jets into the 185 / 182 range. I could maybe see that on engines with stage 2 or 3 cams or with major head work done on them. Just seems too rich for stock top end components even with full exhaust and air box mods.

HMF recommends #145 front / #148 rear for their full exhaust system. That's what I'm using on a 2005 with the air box hole mods, Dyna FS ignition, and full HMF pipes. It's a freshly rebuild top end + big bore kit (timing chains, water / oil pump, etc. replaced as well) and it runs like a champ. I have to really be careful on the pavement because the front end wants to come up so quickly on acceleration.

This is the troubleshooting list from the repair manual:

Poor Running or No Power at High Speed:
Firing incorrect:
Spark plug dirty, broken, or maladjusted
Spark plug cap or high tension lead trouble
Spark plug
Spark plug incorrect
Crankshaft sensor trouble
Igniter trouble
Ignition coil trouble
Fuel/air mixture incorrect:
Main jet clogged or wrong size
Jet needle or needle jet worn
Main air jet clogged
Bleed holes of air bleed pipe or needle jet
clogged
Fuel level too high or too low
Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, or missing
Choke plunger stuck open
Water or foreign matter in fuel
Carburetor holder loose
Air cleaner duct loose
Fuel tank air vent obstructed
Fuel tap clogged
Fuel line clogged
Compression low:
Spark plug loose
Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down
No valve clearance
Cylinder, piston worn
Piston rings bad (worn, weak, broken, or sticking)
Piston ring/groove clearance excessive
Cylinder head gasket damaged
Cylinder head warped
Valve spring broken or weak
Valve not seating properly (valve bent, worn, or carbon accumulation on the seating surface.)
Compression release cam (K.A.C.R.) sticks open (Engine stalls when moving off)
Thank you for your answer-but I don’t get any smoke at all, might have to do compression test although don’t see how it would be running “right” if I didn’t have enough compression- it’s running really good but I got no power, might have to try that , thank you


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Discussion Starter #25
low compression make s power loss.
you do a compression test yet?
No I haven’t yet, I’m gonna buy compression tester soon and see what it will show
But wouldn’t low compression make it hard to start and stuff?


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Discussion Starter #27
it can.
however you need to rule it out.
your timing could be retarded also.
might new cdi box
I know timing isn’t retarded as I’ve changed timing chains about 2/3 months ago and set them and cams right
Is it possible that maybe I got kvf 650 cdi box that’s why it got no power... or wouldn’t the kfx work with kvf cdi?


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Discussion Starter #30
you put on a new belt?
make sure brakes are not dragging?
Belt is oem Kawasaki is not that old and just “re-tighten” the belt this past weekend,I’ve lifted the back wheels of the ground and front and spinner them and it seems fine


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