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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone ever figured the wiring out on the EFI? I had a normally open switch and it didn't work. I now have a Gunner normally closed switch. It has three wires. Two to splice and one to ground. V-Force John told be a while back to what he thought would work but he didn't know for sure. I did a seach and nothing new. Any help would be appreciated.
 

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they have the oem kill switch on the handle bars like any other atv?

If so you can check the continuity on the wires running to it and determine if you need a n/c or n/o switch.

Then trace those wires back and just tie into them
 

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No they don't have the kill switch other than off switch. Not the push in with your thumb it is a switch you push left or right!!!
 

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that's the one I meant :D

didn't know what to call it :rolleyes:
 

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Hey Tom do you think it is that easy to hook up a kill switch that connects to your body that shuts it off?
 

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many have tried........none have succeeded :p:lol:
 

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Hey Tom do you think it is that easy to hook up a kill switch that connects to your body that shuts it off?
Okay Skip, I thought about this again.....I thought maybe you were being funny, asking if there's one that connects to my body and shuts it off...my body that is :lol:

anyway I'm guessing you were asking about, if there is a tethered kill switch.

That's what Wizard racing is asking about.

Yes there is, I have them on my V's. I can't remember though if it's a normally closed or normally open switch though.

A normally open switch, usually means that upon activation of the tether, the switch closes and usually kills the engine by grounding.

A normally closed switch, usually means that upon activation of the tether, the switch opens thereby breaking the circuit.

Okay......the factory system on the V, is a normally closed switch.

So for a V you would need a normally closed switched tether and you would just wire into the brown or the yellow/red striped running from the factory kill switch.

I don't have the wiring schematic for the Brute though
 

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I have to say the manual isn't the best thing for a wiring scematic... I will look and add onto this thread!!!
 

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Update. I looked at my 08 manual and can see that wiring diagram. I have found that the run switch is runs back to the computer or whatever and when you turn it off it stops. Nothing is connected...

BR is the wiring color coming in and Y/R is going to the fuel pump.... Hope this helps!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks guys!!

I was thinking someone had done it and could tell me exactly what to do. I really don't want to experiment if I don't have to. Maybe someone will post something specific soon.

Thanks again.
 

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Thanks guys!!

I was thinking someone had done it and could tell me exactly what to do. I really don't want to experiment if I don't have to. Maybe someone will post something specific soon.

Thanks again.
If I had a teather here I would try it.
 

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I've got a Pingel on mine...here's a pic of where to wire it in. Trace the wiring harness down from the factory kill switch and wire it in to the brown wire. I used my manual to confirm it was the brown wire in that harness.


Further to that....if you have a VDI...you can use a less expensive, easier to find normally open, and wire one side to 12V+, and one side to the orange accessory wire coming out of the VDI, and that will trip the VDI. That is the setup I have on my V Force, with a ProArmor kill switch. You can check out those wiring instructions in the VDI instruction manual.

Hope this was useful.
 

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I've got a Pingel on mine...here's a pic of where to wire it in. Trace the wiring harness down from the factory kill switch and wire it in to the brown wire. I used my manual to confirm it was the brown wire in that harness.


Further to that....if you have a VDI...you can use a less expensive, easier to find normally open, and wire one side to 12V+, and one side to the orange accessory wire coming out of the VDI, and that will trip the VDI. That is the setup I have on my V Force, with a ProArmor kill switch. You can check out those wiring instructions in the VDI instruction manual.

Hope this was useful.
This will work then for the 2008 Brute Force? I don't have a VDI
 

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The pictures of the wiring connector are from my 2008 Brute Force EFI and it has a Pingel normally closed kill switch. When you pull the tether, it opens the circuit, the same as what happens when you slide over your red thumb switch.


sorry, I threw the V Force/VDI reference in there as I have both.
 

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The pictures of the wiring connector are from my 2008 Brute Force EFI and it has a Pingel normally closed kill switch. When you pull the tether, it opens the circuit, the same as what happens when you slide over your red thumb switch.


sorry, I threw the V Force/VDI reference in there as I have both.
Looking at there site. Did you get an expensive one or a cheap one. Also can you use the same one on a KFX700?
 

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yes you can use it on either, just get a normally closed tethered switch. It will also wire up the same.....just splice into the brown wire from the factory stop switch


thanks toolman
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I've got a Pingel on mine...here's a pic of where to wire it in. Trace the wiring harness down from the factory kill switch and wire it in to the brown wire. I used my manual to confirm it was the brown wire in that harness.


Further to that....if you have a VDI...you can use a less expensive, easier to find normally open, and wire one side to 12V+, and one side to the orange accessory wire coming out of the VDI, and that will trip the VDI. That is the setup I have on my V Force, with a ProArmor kill switch. You can check out those wiring instructions in the VDI instruction manual.

Hope this was useful.
Pics, now who could ask for more. :tup: Thanks

One more question...The Gunner has three wires, two to slice in like in your pic and one to ground. Does the Pingel use a ground wire and if so did you hook it up?
 

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Glad I could help...The Pingel doesn't have a ground, it just goes to the brown wires as shown in the pic.

Skip Nay, I got the more expensive one because my dealer had it in stock, and I needed the 1-1/8....I have it mounted on my Flexxx bars right beside the bar clamp. It looks pretty trick I think.
 
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