I was thinking of adding a catch can to my 2017 4010SE4x4, and bought one, but haven’t started the project yet.
Mule 4010's, 3010's and air-oil separators
I’ve got a new 4010 4x4. Some questions, but should be fairly easy ones.
I’ve read with interest the many posts on issues with 3010/4010 Mules idling/stalling/etc after xxx hours. After fuel system/electrical system/sensors trouble-shooting were eliminated as a possible cause, the gumming up of throttle bodies thought to be a direct result of the crankcase ventilation system seem to be a problem many have had. Seafoam etc. gives a temporary fix in many instances, eventually many posters note they removed the throttle body and gave it a thorough cleansing (and sometimes manually moved the throttle plate). Sometimes a Kawasaki dealer replaced their throttle body for free.
For those with older (pre-2014?) Mules, many people mention they’ve put an air-oil separator (aka catch can) on the line from the crankcase breather chamber, and then capped off where that line enters intake system immediately upstream of the throttle (Kawasaki calls where the crankcase vapors enter the intake system a DUCT p/n 14073-2100).
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Question #1: for those of you that have done this on any pre-2014 4010’s or any 3010, do you (a) vent the outlet from the catch can and also cap p/n 14073-2100 (i.e. an open system), or do you (b) route the catch can outlet back to p/n 14073-2100 (a closed system)?
Question #2: for those that have added catch cans and now have many additional hours on your Mule, do you think you’ve been able to eliminate or greatly postpone the throttle body gumming issue?
My new 4010’s crankcase vent system is a little different; on 4010’s since 2014 or so there’s an ‘extra’ air-oil separator (Kawasaki p/n 14069-0018) between the crankcase vent and where that vent line enters the intake system (this time a plastic Duct, p/n 14073-0784).
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Question #3: for those of you with 2015 or later 4010’s and have catch cans installed, do you (a) run the inlet to the catch can from the outlet of p/n 14069-0018 and then vent the catch can outlet / cap p/n 14073-0784, or (b) run the inlet to the catch can from the outlet of p/n 14069-0018 and then route the catch can outlet back to p/n 14073-0784?
Question #4: if anybody has done this, same question as #2 above.
I'm going to be adding a cheapo catch can as per question 3 (b), trying to be proactive, just wondering what success others may or may not have had with throttle gumming issues if you've also added catch cans.
I’ve read with interest the many posts on issues with 3010/4010 Mules idling/stalling/etc after xxx hours. After fuel system/electrical system/sensors trouble-shooting were eliminated as a possible cause, the gumming up of throttle bodies thought to be a direct result of the crankcase ventilation system seem to be a problem many have had. Seafoam etc. gives a temporary fix in many instances, eventually many posters note they removed the throttle body and gave it a thorough cleansing (and sometimes manually moved the throttle plate). Sometimes a Kawasaki dealer replaced their throttle body for free.
For those with older (pre-2014?) Mules, many people mention they’ve put an air-oil separator (aka catch can) on the line from the crankcase breather chamber, and then capped off where that line enters intake system immediately upstream of the throttle (Kawasaki calls where the crankcase vapors enter the intake system a DUCT p/n 14073-2100).
Question #1: for those of you that have done this on any pre-2014 4010’s or any 3010, do you (a) vent the outlet from the catch can and also cap p/n 14073-2100 (i.e. an open system), or do you (b) route the catch can outlet back to p/n 14073-2100 (a closed system)?
Question #2: for those that have added catch cans and now have many additional hours on your Mule, do you think you’ve been able to eliminate or greatly postpone the throttle body gumming issue?
My new 4010’s crankcase vent system is a little different; on 4010’s since 2014 or so there’s an ‘extra’ air-oil separator (Kawasaki p/n 14069-0018) between the crankcase vent and where that vent line enters the intake system (this time a plastic Duct, p/n 14073-0784).
Question #3: for those of you with 2015 or later 4010’s and have catch cans installed, do you (a) run the inlet to the catch can from the outlet of p/n 14069-0018 and then vent the catch can outlet / cap p/n 14073-0784, or (b) run the inlet to the catch can from the outlet of p/n 14069-0018 and then route the catch can outlet back to p/n 14073-0784?
Question #4: if anybody has done this, same question as #2 above.
I'm going to be adding a cheapo catch can as per question 3 (b), trying to be proactive, just wondering what success others may or may not have had with throttle gumming issues if you've also added catch cans.
