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Discussion Starter #1
Can anyone running both front and rear swept arms tell me if they noticed a significant change in the turning radius of the Mule Pro-FXT?
 

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It sucks but i love my 30" tires. We added 2" lift brackets and have the heavy springs cranked to 2nd to last notch now. Rides littlestiffer than stock but better than the ranger we had.


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Discussion Starter #3
I really like the turning radius of the Mule compared to a Ranger. That's the only reason I'm holding back on adding the arms.
 

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We did the highlifter a arms and it does cut back some. Not horrible but inconvenient sometimes

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Well after going off the deep end like so many, I have come back to stock height on the Dirtbus, (Mule pro fxt eps le). I went up to 29” tires, highlifter 4” lift which actually was 5” for me. Problem is, your gearing is screwed unless your gonna go to portal lifts which let you get your original gearing back, but are crazy expensive. The Dirtbus was struggling going up some steep mountain terrain hear in the Sierra Nevadas due to the now tall gearing. Well after breaking a stock shock, wearing out the stock axels due to sharp angles and burning up a drive converter I have reversed course. So first I replaced the stock axles and wheel bearings with All Balls axles and bearings. I replaced all four shocks with Elka Stage 2 shocks. Elka would not warranty their shocks unless I removed the Highlifter lift, which I did. The 28” mongrells which still fit are almost worn out then I will drop down to Moose Racing 27” switchback tires, only 1” over stock. I will see how they go and if not satisfied, then back to 26” stock sized tires. To tell you the truth I’m much happier with the Dirtbus now than with the lift. My drive axels are almost dead horizontal so I know they won’t be constantly under severe stress. The Dirtbus rides like a dream on the Elka’s, and so far no issues with getting hung up with it lowered. The engineers at Kawasaki know much more about their machine than I do. Messing with drive axel angles and front end angles only leads to failure of said parts quicker. And for what tangible gain??? Beefing things up is one thing, changing the geometry is something entirely different. It feels to me now that I have found the sweet spot I was looking for.


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Discussion Starter #6
Well after going off the deep end like so many, I have come back to stock height on the Dirtbus, (Mule pro fxt eps le). I went up to 29” tires, highlifter 4” lift which actually was 5” for me. Problem is, your gearing is screwed unless your gonna go to portal lifts which let you get your original gearing back, but are crazy expensive. The Dirtbus was struggling going up some steep mountain terrain hear in the Sierra Nevadas due to the now tall gearing. Well after breaking a stock shock, wearing out the stock axels due to sharp angles and burning up a drive converter I have reversed course. So first I replaced the stock axles and wheel bearings with All Balls axles and bearings. I replaced all four shocks with Elka Stage 2 shocks. Elka would not warranty their shocks unless I removed the Highlifter lift, which I did. The 28” mongrells which still fit are almost worn out then I will drop down to Moose Racing 27” switchback tires, only 1” over stock. I will see how they go and if not satisfied, then back to 26” stock sized tires. To tell you the truth I’m much happier with the Dirtbus now than with the lift. My drive axels are almost dead horizontal so I know they won’t be constantly under severe stress. The Dirtbus rides like a dream on the Elka’s, and so far no issues with getting hung up with it lowered. The engineers at Kawasaki know much more about their machine than I do. Messing with drive axel angles and front end angles only leads to failure of said parts quicker. And for what tangible gain??? Beefing things up is one thing, changing the geometry is something entirely different. It feels to me now that I have found the sweet spot I was looking for.


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Did you have the swept arms or just the 4" lift? Did you have the EPI clutch spring kit?
 

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Just a 4” bracket lift and the EPI clutch spring. But back to stock now.


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Discussion Starter #8
If you lift your vehicle by 4" or 5" the CV angle will change by about 10 or 11 degrees. That's hard on the CV joints. If you sweep the axles back 1.5" the CV angle changes by about 3 degrees. Much easier on the CV's. I believe this 1.5" will still allow you to get 30" tires on the mule without increasing the ride height by any more than the tire height.
 

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Haven’t really thought about the A arm move. But either way your gearing is screwed. I don’t want tall gears when climbing or stressing it out in tough 4WD terrain.


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Discussion Starter #10
I agree with the gearing issue. It sounds like you have hills around you like I do. One of the climbs it won't go over 18 MPH going up. I am concerned if I go bigger tires it will drop to 10 MPH.
 

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If all your are doing is building a trophy ride, great. Not an issue if the only time it hits 4WD is to climb the curb to wash it. Mine gets into some serious rock crawling over boulders, strep mountain roads with loads in the back. I have lifted plenty of vehicles in the last 45 years, but always matched up the gearing for the larger tires to keep undue stress off of motor and tranny. Ain’t gonna happen with my mule.


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Discussion Starter #12
Sold the trophy to get the Mule. Love it so far. The ride can't be beat. Just one of those things where if the extra tire size gains some clearance in the snow it's worth researching. I wonder if the CV angle was robbing you of some of the Mule's power. Say if the axle was interfering with the CV cages or the axle was at max extension at ride height.
 

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It’s not about a slower speed. If the lift makes it so much harder for the mule to climb, and puts it so much more at a mechanical disadvantage trying to move it can’t be good for the machine. For me in the end I have lost capability for the sake of what, larger tire for cool effect? Mine will eat others with monster tires that have when it comes to pushing the machine to its engineered limits.


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It’s not about a slower speed. If the lift makes it so much harder for the mule to climb, and puts it so much more at a mechanical disadvantage trying to move it can’t be good for the machine. For me in the end I have lost capability for the sake of what, larger tire for cool effect? Mine will eat others with monster tires that have when it comes to pushing the machine to its engineered limits.


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Well spin the axles by hand when they are jacked and severe angles are in play. It’s so much harder to do then when they are properly aligned. The added height won’t make enough difference compared to the negatives. Experience behind the wheel be and proper tire placement during the rides will be a better option. I’d be on it if not for gearing. And the big plus for not doing it is the kawasaki warranty issues. So in the end what I have is a mule with beefed up shocks, axles, wheel bearings, none of which will cause problems with warranties. And the Elka shocks have some ride height adjustments built in, and 12 inches of articulation.


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I’m in Virginia City area with most rides at 6000’ or higher. Altitude reduces power already, big tires were hurting it more. The mule is more agile and responsive now than with the large tires. In fact, I have someone coming today to purchase my last set of oversized tires.


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If you fellas need more power with bigger tires.... You should definitely check out the portal gear reduction lift. Its what all the big tire mud guys and hardcore rock crawler guys use to do the serious stuff.
Forward A-arms with 4" portals with 15% or 30% reduction. Power, ground clearance, bigger tires....and still running axles at stock angles. Pretty sick. With that combo you can run at least a 30", maybe bigger depending on true tire height on the machine...and if you're ok with a little rubbing.
 

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Why don’t you just give us a price on all four corners, that should end the discussion.


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