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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi folks. I'm new here. Just aquired a mint used BF750 and as you can see I don't know much about these things. Sorry for the long post...any and all help/advice/knowledge is appreciated!

Background: 2005 BF750. All stock down to the original tires. About 300 hrs and 900 miles. I plan to do mostly mid speed trail riding. Very little to no heavy mudding or serious rock crawling. Plan on getting a set of terra or baja cross tires in stock (or maybe one inch larger(26in) size soon.

Engine:
Can you tell by listening if the valves need adjusting? I’m not sure if what I’m hearing is normal or not and do not have previous service records. I'm sure I'll get to them soon...just wondering if it needs to be immediately.

Cold natured starts and poor/sluggish throttle response until fully warmed up. I understand a twin might be cold natured, but this seems excessive. Tapping the throttle before full warm up does not inspire confidence that this thing is tuned correctly. However, once it is fully warmed up, it seems to run quite well.

Heat…damn this thing puts off a lot of heat and it’s only been mid 50’s during my warmest ride so far. What can I do to lessen this on my left leg and also the rear rack area? I see a piece of heat shield above the muffler area, but it’s not nearly long or wide enough. Is this factory and can I purchase and install more? Other options?


Trans/CVT/Belt:
When it’s good and warm the belt squeals ever so slightly when stopped and in gear. Does this mean the belt needs attention? Other than that everything seems normal. Accelerates great with no noticeable slipping or other issues.

Engine braking…geez coming from manual transmission sport bikes this thing seems excessive to say the least, and has to be part of the reason it drinks so much fuel. I have to stay in the throttle pretty good to maintain speed downhill! I couldn’t imagine ever wearing out a set of brakes. I’m trying to learn as much as I can about the different aftermarket clutch options. Is there a reliable way to lessen the engine braking?

General clutch tech...I see folks talking about changing springs and such. Won’t this hurt the top end? Going with the “nothing is free” approach here. What exactly does the VForceJohn clutch mod do and are clutch mods appropriate with stock machines? If the power is there to be had I will eventually purse bolt on mods (pipe/filter,etc)...how do mild mods like these factor into clutch performance/mods…ie does the clutch have to be beefed up handle additional power?

4x4 engagment...can this be done while moving? I hope so b/c I've done it several times. Seems it would not hurt anything as long as the speed is slow and the rear wheels are not spinning.

Thanks again!

 

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Hi folks. I'm new here. Just aquired a mint used BF750 and as you can see I don't know much about these things. Sorry for the long post...any and all help/advice/knowledge is appreciated!

Background: 2005 BF750. All stock down to the original tires. About 300 hrs and 900 miles. I plan to do mostly mid speed trail riding. Very little to no heavy mudding or serious rock crawling. Plan on getting a set of terra or baja cross tires in stock (or maybe one inch larger(26in) size soon.

Engine:
Can you tell by listening if the valves need adjusting? I’m not sure if what I’m hearing is normal or not and do not have previous service records. I'm sure I'll get to them soon...just wondering if it needs to be immediately.

Cold natured starts and poor/sluggish throttle response until fully warmed up. I understand a twin might be cold natured, but this seems excessive. Tapping the throttle before full warm up does not inspire confidence that this thing is tuned correctly. However, once it is fully warmed up, it seems to run quite well.

Heat…damn this thing puts off a lot of heat and it’s only been mid 50’s during my warmest ride so far. What can I do to lessen this on my left leg and also the rear rack area? I see a piece of heat shield above the muffler area, but it’s not nearly long or wide enough. Is this factory and can I purchase and install more? Other options?


Trans/CVT/Belt:
When it’s good and warm the belt squeals ever so slightly when stopped and in gear. Does this mean the belt needs attention? Other than that everything seems normal. Accelerates great with no noticeable slipping or other issues.

Engine braking…geez coming from manual transmission sport bikes this thing seems excessive to say the least, and has to be part of the reason it drinks so much fuel. I have to stay in the throttle pretty good to maintain speed downhill! I couldn’t imagine ever wearing out a set of brakes. I’m trying to learn as much as I can about the different aftermarket clutch options. Is there a reliable way to lessen the engine braking?

General clutch tech...I see folks talking about changing springs and such. Won’t this hurt the top end? Going with the “nothing is free” approach here. What exactly does the VForceJohn clutch mod do and are clutch mods appropriate with stock machines? If the power is there to be had I will eventually purse bolt on mods (pipe/filter,etc)...how do mild mods like these factor into clutch performance/mods…ie does the clutch have to be beefed up handle additional power?

4x4 engagment...can this be done while moving? I hope so b/c I've done it several times. Seems it would not hurt anything as long as the speed is slow and the rear wheels are not spinning.

Thanks again!
Welcome!
Valves. Only true method is to check adjustment. Loose valves are happy valves, they tighten over time.
Hesitation. Can't comment, mine is Fuel injected. BUT...carb'ed motors generally will be lean until they warm up.
CVT. Mine has about 120 miles, and if left in gear idleing, will squeal very lightly.
Engine braking. Same here. Will throw you over the front if not careful. Can remove actuator if desired, but not recommended.
I'll leave the Clutch tech to the experts.
4x4 engagement. NEVER do it while moving, read everywhere it'll trash the front diff.

All of this is my humble opinion......happy motoring!!!:D
 

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Heat-wise--that is how it is brother, I experience the same thing. Brutal in summer with shorts on, can't hardly stand it. I will say I stay a hell of a lot cleaner on it than I did my previous Polaris Sportsman. I would be coated in the first mile if muddy conditions.

Warmup-wise--Same deal here for the most part, atleast in cooler to cold conditions. I push snow with it but once it is warmed up it is a beeoootch.

Tires--I am interested in the same tires but I am waiting for dealers to get the BajaCross tires in a 26X12.

As per your other inquiries, I am not an expert so I can not comment with 100% accuracy. I think you are ok on your 4x4 engagement assessment, but I try to engage always before trouble.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hi folks. I'm new here. Just aquired a mint used BF750 and as you can see I don't know much about these things. Sorry for the long post...any and all help/advice/knowledge is appreciated!

Background: 2005 BF750. All stock down to the original tires. About 300 hrs and 900 miles. I plan to do mostly mid speed trail riding. Very little to no heavy mudding or serious rock crawling. Plan on getting a set of terra or baja cross tires in stock (or maybe one inch larger(26in) size soon.

Engine:
Can you tell by listening if the valves need adjusting? I’m not sure if what I’m hearing is normal or not and do not have previous service records. I'm sure I'll get to them soon...just wondering if it needs to be immediately.

Cold natured starts and poor/sluggish throttle response until fully warmed up. I understand a twin might be cold natured, but this seems excessive. Tapping the throttle before full warm up does not inspire confidence that this thing is tuned correctly. However, once it is fully warmed up, it seems to run quite well.

Heat…damn this thing puts off a lot of heat and it’s only been mid 50’s during my warmest ride so far. What can I do to lessen this on my left leg and also the rear rack area? I see a piece of heat shield above the muffler area, but it’s not nearly long or wide enough. Is this factory and can I purchase and install more? Other options?


Trans/CVT/Belt:
When it’s good and warm the belt squeals ever so slightly when stopped and in gear. Does this mean the belt needs attention? Other than that everything seems normal. Accelerates great with no noticeable slipping or other issues.

Engine braking…geez coming from manual transmission sport bikes this thing seems excessive to say the least, and has to be part of the reason it drinks so much fuel. I have to stay in the throttle pretty good to maintain speed downhill! I couldn’t imagine ever wearing out a set of brakes. I’m trying to learn as much as I can about the different aftermarket clutch options. Is there a reliable way to lessen the engine braking?

General clutch tech...I see folks talking about changing springs and such. Won’t this hurt the top end? Going with the “nothing is free” approach here. What exactly does the VForceJohn clutch mod do and are clutch mods appropriate with stock machines? If the power is there to be had I will eventually purse bolt on mods (pipe/filter,etc)...how do mild mods like these factor into clutch performance/mods…ie does the clutch have to be beefed up handle additional power?

4x4 engagment...can this be done while moving? I hope so b/c I've done it several times. Seems it would not hurt anything as long as the speed is slow and the rear wheels are not spinning.

Thanks again!
Welcome!
Valves. Only true method is to check adjustment. Loose valves are happy valves, they tighten over time.
Hesitation. Can't comment, mine is Fuel injected. BUT...carb'ed motors generally will be lean until they warm up.
CVT. Mine has about 120 miles, and if left in gear idleing, will squeal very lightly.
Engine braking. Same here. Will throw you over the front if not careful. Can remove actuator if desired, but not recommended.
I'll leave the Clutch tech to the experts.
4x4 engagement. NEVER do it while moving, read everywhere it'll trash the front diff.

All of this is my humble opinion......happy motoring!!!:D
Does removing the actuator disable the engine brake altogether or only at slower speeds?

So that's one no and one yes on the 4x4 engagement....anyone wanna jump in and break the tie? I don't see how it could hurt since it has to be moving to actually engage anyway. Again...I'm talking slow speed, non-spinning, light throttle, non jacking around engagement.

Clutch experts...any advice?

Thanks!
 

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4wd engagement . i always go very slow(maybe 1-2 mph) and just hit the button.gotta be moving to engage just dont be hammerin on it when u hit it
clutch . most kits will slow your top end .with 26s probably not gonna need one .they say alot about vforcejohn, check that one out they say his dont make u lose top end . might wanna call him or pm him sounds like he knows his stuff.
engine brake good to prolong brake life keep it
belt squeal everyone i ever rode with on brutes does that. i just take it outta gear so it dont annoy me cant tell ya if it will mess anything up
cold friend has a carb model thats the same way.mine is EFI.wouldnt hurt to have it all checked out since it is five years old .only 300 hrs though, its been setting alot. might just need to be run
heat welcome to the world o brutes u can try more heat tape.
 

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Hi folks. I'm new here. Just aquired a mint used BF750 and as you can see I don't know much about these things. Sorry for the long post...any and all help/advice/knowledge is appreciated!

Background: 2005 BF750. All stock down to the original tires. About 300 hrs and 900 miles. I plan to do mostly mid speed trail riding. Very little to no heavy mudding or serious rock crawling. Plan on getting a set of terra or baja cross tires in stock (or maybe one inch larger(26in) size soon.

Engine:
Can you tell by listening if the valves need adjusting? I’m not sure if what I’m hearing is normal or not and do not have previous service records. I'm sure I'll get to them soon...just wondering if it needs to be immediately.

Cold natured starts and poor/sluggish throttle response until fully warmed up. I understand a twin might be cold natured, but this seems excessive. Tapping the throttle before full warm up does not inspire confidence that this thing is tuned correctly. However, once it is fully warmed up, it seems to run quite well.

Heat…damn this thing puts off a lot of heat and it’s only been mid 50’s during my warmest ride so far. What can I do to lessen this on my left leg and also the rear rack area? I see a piece of heat shield above the muffler area, but it’s not nearly long or wide enough. Is this factory and can I purchase and install more? Other options?


Trans/CVT/Belt:
When it’s good and warm the belt squeals ever so slightly when stopped and in gear. Does this mean the belt needs attention? Other than that everything seems normal. Accelerates great with no noticeable slipping or other issues.

Engine braking…geez coming from manual transmission sport bikes this thing seems excessive to say the least, and has to be part of the reason it drinks so much fuel. I have to stay in the throttle pretty good to maintain speed downhill! I couldn’t imagine ever wearing out a set of brakes. I’m trying to learn as much as I can about the different aftermarket clutch options. Is there a reliable way to lessen the engine braking?

General clutch tech...I see folks talking about changing springs and such. Won’t this hurt the top end? Going with the “nothing is free” approach here. What exactly does the VForceJohn clutch mod do and are clutch mods appropriate with stock machines? If the power is there to be had I will eventually purse bolt on mods (pipe/filter,etc)...how do mild mods like these factor into clutch performance/mods…ie does the clutch have to be beefed up handle additional power?

4x4 engagment...can this be done while moving? I hope so b/c I've done it several times. Seems it would not hurt anything as long as the speed is slow and the rear wheels are not spinning.

Thanks again!
Welcome!
Valves. Only true method is to check adjustment. Loose valves are happy valves, they tighten over time.
Hesitation. Can't comment, mine is Fuel injected. BUT...carb'ed motors generally will be lean until they warm up.
CVT. Mine has about 120 miles, and if left in gear idleing, will squeal very lightly.
Engine braking. Same here. Will throw you over the front if not careful. Can remove actuator if desired, but not recommended.
I'll leave the Clutch tech to the experts.
4x4 engagement. NEVER do it while moving, read everywhere it'll trash the front diff.

All of this is my humble opinion......happy motoring!!!:D
Does removing the actuator disable the engine brake altogether or only at slower speeds?

So that's one no and one yes on the 4x4 engagement....anyone wanna jump in and break the tie? I don't see how it could hurt since it has to be moving to actually engage anyway. Again...I'm talking slow speed, non-spinning, light throttle, non jacking around engagement.

Clutch experts...any advice?

Thanks!
never engage 4wheel while moveing trust me i know ive rebuilt my front diff a couple of times and its not designed for on the fly shifting.ur valves are fine just the sound of the big v twin mine does the same thing since day 1 and i got 2600 miles on it now. i would change ur secondary spring on ur clutch call EPI or check there web you also can check out DALTONS web site as for your engine brake you can take off the belt drive cover and remove the fork from inside the cover but you have to keep the motor on or your 2wd and 4wd lite blinks back and forth it is really easy i did it on mine but u will use your brakes alot more last but not least put in a plug and play module for your cold harted beast or a dynojet jet kit. hope i could help im kind of new to this web site just got my first computer:D
 

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Welcome!
Valves. Only true method is to check adjustment. Loose valves are happy valves, they tighten over time.
Hesitation. Can't comment, mine is Fuel injected. BUT...carb'ed motors generally will be lean until they warm up.
CVT. Mine has about 120 miles, and if left in gear idleing, will squeal very lightly.
Engine braking. Same here. Will throw you over the front if not careful. Can remove actuator if desired, but not recommended.
I'll leave the Clutch tech to the experts.
4x4 engagement. NEVER do it while moving, read everywhere it'll trash the front diff.

All of this is my humble opinion......happy motoring!!!:D
Does removing the actuator disable the engine brake altogether or only at slower speeds?

So that's one no and one yes on the 4x4 engagement....anyone wanna jump in and break the tie? I don't see how it could hurt since it has to be moving to actually engage anyway. Again...I'm talking slow speed, non-spinning, light throttle, non jacking around engagement.

Clutch experts...any advice?

Thanks!
never engage 4wheel while moveing trust me i know ive rebuilt my front diff a couple of times and its not designed for on the fly shifting.ur valves are fine just the sound of the big v twin mine does the same thing since day 1 and i got 2600 miles on it now. i would change ur secondary spring on ur clutch call EPI or check there web you also can check out DALTONS web site as for your engine brake you can take off the belt drive cover and remove the fork from inside the cover but you have to keep the motor on or your 2wd and 4wd lite blinks back and forth it is really easy i did it on mine but u will use your brakes alot more last but not least put in a plug and play module for your cold harted beast or a dynojet jet kit. hope i could help im kind of new to this web site just got my first computer:D
its me again just put new heat tape on the inside of your plastics it helps alot and dont be stingy with it.:D
 

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Hell yeah runs hot

Got my valves adjusted at 1500 miles, sounds about the same just the way it is, runs pretty hot in the summer so I run water wetter, piped and jetted with cdi, clutch spring cause the tires are big and although the machine has a few faults like engine breaking I think it's the best machine out there in my opinion. Not many rigs can run with it after a few mods. Looks good too while your burning their doors off on giant mud tires.
 

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Belt squealing is GOOD! that means your deflection is tight enough. let it be.

hard starting. welcome to the v-twin. specially if there is a dyna CDI on it. then shim the stock NFKL needle. ...OR...

Hard starting can also be associated with valves. intake valves on these machines get too tight. if it pops thru the intake when cold, they are most likely too tight.

clutches, I can take care of whatever you need, more speed, holeshot power, midrange pull and fuelmileage.

John
 

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I am new as well to the BF world so I can't speak much on it as I only have 100miles on it so far. It's cold here now and at -10 deg C the brute fires up no problem with full choke and no throttle. Let it warm up until it starts to run rich and sputters and then let the choke off all the way and give it throttle to keep it going. It idles low but still stays running!
As for engagement, I yield to others experience but I only engage at low speeds with no load on as mentioned above or stopped. No problems yet!
Yes the engine braking is more than enough but it is what it is. Good save on Brake pads I guess. Wish it didn't whine as much but it's the nature of the beast.
I will say though it's hard on fuel compared to the other ATV I have. I know I'm doing slow riding through the local trails but damn man, she loves the fuel. I have gotten maybe 60kms to 11 litres of fuel so that puts it just over half a tank. I don't know if running fast trails will improve it much but I'm definitely not hard on the throttle.
 

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JBB
This is a great post. I too just purchased an '05 brute 750i, and have been wondering most of the same things. Its too cold to really get to know my bike but on the warmer days I try to spend some time with it to make sure its running correctly.
To all the people who have responded... Thanks
Your input has been very helpful, the only downside is that now I want to invest more money :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Yes it does say that, but it also plays up the "losing control" angle of shifting into 4x4. I assume that is the major reason for the warning...not that it will damage internal components.
 
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